Do you know for sure that they are the same length? I'd like to see them both to compare. I think the one that comes with the LT4 PP and Specs might be a different length than the round one used on the stock LT1 PP. There has to be a reason SLP decided to use the round t/o bearing with their modified LT4 PP. Why wouldnt they have just used the square one that comes with LT4 PP's? If the LT1 t/o bearing happens to be slightly longer than the other it could definitley be causing this problem. I'm going to ask for both at the dealer tomorrow and check the sizes to see. I really think that may be what is causing the problem. The machine shop that did my flywheel gave me the shim to use, they said it was a 25/1000. I had a 15/1000 shim before from the first time it was cut, they took another 10 off this time. This one certainly didnt look much thicker if any. If these two bearings are the same I will just try removing this shim and see what that does. If neither of those work I think Im going to just get an adjustable master cylinder to fix it. I'll let you know what I find.

 

Can you please take some pictures from under the car when you put in the flywheel, clutch disk, and PP?
I had my car in a shop and they say they put in a shim but what I think I see is way too thick to be a shim. I'm having major problems with my car that the clutch starts to grab all the way at the floor but will not fully disengage where I can't shift it into a gear without a major driveline shock. Also the clutch engages at the top of the pedal throw.
I'm kicking myself in the a.. for not taking a pic of what I have and posting it.
I'm running out of ideas and out of cash!

 

With those parts installed you wouldnt be able to see the shim. The shim goes behind the flywheel, its between the flyhweel and the crank.

 

I went to the dealer and they didnt have any LT4 t/o bearings to compare mine to, they said they were backordered. They wanted $131 for one too I'm going to order one from Jason Cromer today. Does anyone know the torque specs for the Spec 4 disc & PP? I went by the stock specs for an LT1 in the book which were 22ft/lbs. Just wondering if that could have anything to do with this problem or if the specs are the same.

 

thanks for reply
I know that the shim goes between the crank and flywheel.
when I took the inspection conver out I'm seeing something which I'm not sure is the flywheel or a thick A.. shim. I need to compare it to someone elses setup.

 

tq spec's are the same for all LTx pp's

 

Thanks Steve. I think I just figured out a cheap but effective fix to my problem. I found this link in a search:

http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/show...ghlight=master

I'm pretty sure the clutch was releasing fine, although I didnt take it out for a spin. If I just reduce the pedal travel with this method I think I should be fine. I'm going to try it this weekend, I'll let everyone know how it works.

 

I called SPEC a week ago and they said that you can use a SPEC III on the stock style pressure plate, but they do some work to the pressure plates for the IV and V. He said something about a misalignment issue that may come up. You might want to call SPEC and talk about it.

 

I don't know what work they could be doing to it except for adding the holes to lighten it. The thing is, SLP's PP is just a lightened LT4 unit which is what SPEC and other LT1 clutch manufacturers use too. Like I said earlier, the only variable I can think of is the t/o bearing. SLP uses the LT1 t/o bearing which I reused, SPEC uses the square LT4 bearing. If there is any difference in length at all between the two that could very well be causing my problem. I may not even get the bearing at this point, even from Jason Cromer the damn thing is $75, plus it's backordered. The method I found above should certainly fix the excessive travel problem.

 

take the shim out! that should allieveiate <sp> the grinding.. W/o jurry rigging.. If that still don't work then do your mod above.. Just my opinoon.. or you can make a gasket/spacer to go between the slave and the bellhousing that should give ya the reduction in travel that your looking for..

 

I was planning to remove the shim too while I'm at it this time. I had thought about adding a gasket or spacer between the slave & bellhousing too. I think I will try both of them first and see what happens, if those dont do it I will go with the clutch pedal 'mod'. I dont know if the new t/o bearing will be in by this weekend, if not I think I'll just cancel it.

 

I had this exact same problem on my '97 with a Mcleod single disc/pressure plate. I just slowly let the fork grind the edge of the pressure plate down until it stopped grinding. Kinda crude, but it worked fine for 20k miles and 125+ passes down the track.

 

Damn, I think I would have had a heck of a mess in there if I did that. I had another inch to go in pedal travel, I just touched the PP with the fork for a second with it running and it produced a good bit of metal shavings!

 

a inch? thats a awful lot!!!

 

Sounds like yours is worse than mine was. Hope you figure it out.