GREGG 97Z

I just installed a Spec 4 disc, reused my SLP pressure plate and had the stock flywheel resurfaced 25/1000 and shimmed the same. When I push the clutch in with the car off it wouldnt go down to the floor all the way, felt like it was hitting something at the last inch or so. I started it up, push the clutch in and as it gets to the floor I hear a bad grinding noise. I pulled the slave cylinder off and saw that the fork was hitting against the outer edge of the pressure plate and it took some metal shavings off it? I pulled the fork off the t/o bearing and reinstalled it again and it still hits the PP when I push it to the floor. I was under the impression that the SLP PP was the same one that Spec uses, they both use the LT4 PP. I have heard though that the Spec uses a square type throwout bearing, I'm almost positive mine was round. Can this problem be from using the wrong t/o bearing or is it something else? Im also starting to wonder if I could have put the disc in backwards too causing the PP to stick out too far. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I really dont feel like pulling the trans again.

96TurboTA

I think the disc in backward could very well be the problem. Post back up when you figure out what it is exactly.

turbo_Z

I dont see how a guy could put the disc in backwards w/o noticing theres a problem fairly quick. Sounds like maybe SPEC uses a shorter TO bearing. I do know what you mean by the square on on LT4 pp b/c thats what Im using. It looks like SLP just put the round TO bearing on the LT4 pp so I think it should work with your set up. Is it possible you just have the fork flipped around backwards?

IllusionalTA

if the fork ain't completely seated on the T/O bearing it could be binding that way.. Or! the shim is too thick.. I have used Spec's and have never shimmed after 3 resurfacings.. Done by them!.. IMO pull the tranny and clutch remove the shim and throw er' back up there.. Could put a thinner shim in for safe measure.. can't put the disc on backward's either.. it won't go any other way than the way its' installed.. the installer would easily notice it don't fit ! did the pp fully seat on the Flywheel? if not it could possibly be put in backwards.. but you'd notice it didn't go in that way.. So.. i dunno.. Let us know.. Good luck..

97 RedSS

Umm...you can put the disc in backwards and it does fit OK..Trust me, I put 75 miles on the clutch and it felt perfect..Found out later on the flat side goes toward the PP so I just recently pulled it back out and installed it the other way..

Cody

GREGG 97Z

The fork feels like its fully seated, it locks into place when I push it on, I've checked it three times now. I'm thinking the disc is in wrong. It didnt say on the disc which way it went I just installed it the way it looked like it should go. I'm pretty sure the PP was fully seated to the flywheel though. It looks like I'm going to pull it apart to check, if the disc was in right I will take the shim out of there. Should I get the square type t/o bearing also or are they both the same dimensions as far as travel and all? Thanks for the feedback.

ACE1252

If the disk is installed backwards, what would be the symptoms?

Just curious...I installed a new SLP LT4 PP and stock LT1 disk in my car 6 months ago. I think I put it in correctly, but with the problems I'm having now.....I wonder if I goofed something.

97 RedSS

Spec said it would warp the disc or better yet weld the disc to the flywheel..Basically it puts the PP in a bind also...

Cody

GREGG 97Z

Ok, I messed with the clutch fork for about an hour making sure it was on there right and it was. So I pulled the trans back out and checked the clutch. There was a bit of metal shavings in the front of the trans and in the bellhousing from the fork rubbing The flat side of the disc was toward the PP so that is correct right? Also the PP is fully seated on the flywheel and torqued correctly. I really dont think the flywheel shim could be the problem at this point. The only thing I can think of is the round t/o bearing I'm using must be a different length than the square one that it sounds like Spec uses. I think Im going to order one before I reinstall this all again. Would I just order an LT4 t/o bearing, is that what the square one is? I would think that would have come with SLP's PP since it is an LT4 unit, or at least I thought it was. Damn it, I really cant wait to try this clutch out one of these days.

97 RedSS

I know for a fact mine TO bearing had square edges...Sounds like your disc is in correct as long as the part of the hub that sticks out 1/2" is toward the flywheel..Id go with the SPEC PP and you should be ok..

Cody

mike96lt1

Been there just when through this. Here is what it is, Your bolt that goes through your fork that connects it to the trannie has vibrated loose so now the fork moves to far and grinds against the PP. You don't have to drop your drive shaft or trannie to fix it just unbolt the tranny brace and the trannie from the bell houseing and it should slide back enough to get a open end wrench (12mm I think) in there to tighten it down. Your pretty blue or yellow PP is going to be ugly now though

-Mike

97 RedSS

I would assume since he has taken the fork off and put it back on that the bolt is tight...Now possibly the square looking spacer the bolt goes into isnt installed correctly into its grooves..

Cody

IllusionalTA

Why would anyone take the fork off in the first place? i don't think the t/o bearing is the problem.. although you can just rotate it 90 deg. that might make a diff.. Doubt it though.. I think the problem lie's in the shim area. Do you have a adj. Master? or is it still stock?

GREGG 97Z

I have the trans out now and I cheked the bolt that holds the fork to the trans and it was on very tight and everything looks fine with it. The fork was definitely engaging the t/o bearing correctly too, looking at it it can really only go on one way, its either on or its not and the clutch felt normal when I pushed it in it just hit at the bottom of the travel. I will try removing the shims from the flywheel but I dont see how that could make that much of a difference. If they took 25/1000 off the face of it the same size shim behind it should bring it back to the same spot. I still have the stock master cylinder, I thought about switching to an adjustable one to try and fix this problem. Does anyone know if there is a difference in the dimensions of these two different t/o bearings? I'm going to order one this week to see before I throw this trans back in again.

IllusionalTA

they are the same T/O bearing's just diff manuf. there for the diff. style.. are you sure your shim is the "25/1000th's ? that it's supposed to be? if its only 25 1/000's i don't think a shim would be req'd.. i've never used a shim even w/ my Street Twin.. IF you pull the shim out.. it'll move the flywheel 25/1000th's closer to the crank therfore allowing more clearnance betweent he fork and the pp.. its not much.. But you should still check the actual thickness of the shim..