djk19

1. Does anyone know how to properly hook up the reverse lockout solenoid after doing a t-56 conversion and running the pigtail wires to the inside of the car for a later time. I have a 95 camaro z-28 convertible with all power options. I know somone did a write up about a 94 or similar but not 95...

2. I also get a trouble code for the skip shift solenoid and the skip shift light not being there. I know this doesn't hurt anything but if I was to connect a skip shift eliminator would it at least eliminate the skip shift solenoid code (probably not the lamp circuit) that would eliminate that problem. ... two things that even a tune and the best parts didn't catch... just want this thing squared away once and for all.

rngilliland

1. Reverse lockout. Hook one wire for the solenoid to a 12 volt source. I spliced into the hot wire for the reverse light switch.

The second wire needs to hook to position 6 on the blue pcm connector. On my 94 there wasn't a wire in that position so I had to add one. On the 95 there is a brown wire already in that position. Just splice into the brown wire in the wiring harness that was connected to your auto trans. You will have to have a M6 program in your PCM to make the solenoid work correctly. On a 95 position 6 on the blue connector is used on both the M6 and auto programs but for different things. As far as I know you have to start with a M6 program to make the reverse solenoid work correctly as the function of that pin out is specific to the M6 or auto program and can't be changed with Tunercat or other tuning software.

2. I used Tunercat to disable skip shift. In the switch table I unchecked C.A.R.S to disable it and I unchecked code 91 which is the shilt light diagnostic code. In the constants table I moved the C.A.R.S enable temp to the maximum so the PCM shouldn't ever try to enable the skip shift. Unchecking C.A.R.S in the switch table may be all you need to do but I did the others to make sure and never tried it with just C.A.R.S unchecked.

If you aren't using one of the tuning programs any of the tuners on this board should be able to turn off the skip shift for you.

You probably already know but C.A.R.S is GM's acronym for skip shift.

djk19

i have a pcmforless tune and I have the pigtail with two wires extending it to the inside of the car. Are you telling me I connect one side to a 12 volt source and the other wire goes to the brown wire at position 6 on my 95 auto car. My pcm was originally for an auto and my wire harness too since I converted from auto to standard. Is this brown wire the wire I need or is it for somthing else and I shouldn't touch it... I understand half of what I should do. your telling me the pcm sends a ground signal to the solenoid but I have to know ona 95 what wire is for the solenoid if I converted from auto to manual. Anyone???

rngilliland

The PCM is the same for an auto or M6. The program is different. Pin 6 on the blue connector is for the reverse lockout on a M6 car. On an auto car pin 6 is for the TCC solenoid. The program in the PCM determines how pin 6 operates. That is why you need a M6 program . On your car the brown wire in the harness that went to the auto trans goes to pin 6 on the blue connector. Hook that brown wire to one side of the reverse lockout solenoid and the other side to a 12 volt source. I think it does matter which wire on the solenoid is connected to the PCM and which one connects to the power source. You could hook up the 12 source to one side of the solenoid and ground the other side. If the solenoid works correctly then you have the 12 volts on the correct side. If it does't you can switch the wires before hooking it up to the PCM.

Since you have a pcmforless tune I would call them and I am sure they can take care of your skip shift codes and tell you if you need to do anything to make the reverse lockout work correctly.

This is a link to shoebox's web site showing the blue connector wireing. http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm_conn_d.jpg

This link has some wiring info on the conversion. Look in the second post.
http://www.z28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36061

djk19

that explains things. I will check. I taped up the connector for the auto. I will have to get up under there and take the tape off to tap into the wire. then extend a piece of wire from it, to the inside of the car. Then I can sit in my drivers seat and play with the wiring.

Objective. -
locate brown wire in large auto connector,
splice in y
Run to center console area.

simple. Why didn't anyone just say that!

djk19

Should i be able to hear the solenoid if I hook up the 12 volt source and grownd to the wires? Should it slide in and out down there and make a sound? I hope i get it right the first time and don't short out the accessory fuse that I have in my center connsole area. I hope it makes a sound enough to hear so I know FO SHO. Sounds totally simple to hook up and I have heard the grind a efw times to have it **** me off enough to hook this thing up. it realy is easy if everything everyone is saying is true.

rngilliland

I could hear mine when I turned on the key. The way I understand it the PCM grounds the solenoid when the car is under 5 mph. I used the original pigtail and it had a green wire and another color I don't remember. The green wire went to the PCM.

djk19

nice. then my pigtail probably has the same colored wires and i actually think I remember the green wire. that will make the guesswork even easier. I need get the car up on some jack stands so it is high enough then get up to where I taped the wuto connector to the harness. I can pull that out and splice right into that brown wire. then run that wire to the inside of the car using the same pass through as where I ran the reverse light wire etc. then whichever wire is from that green wire, connect that wire to that wire spliced into the brown wire ... then just connect the other wire to any of the dozen switched power wires under the center console area. done.



that is so simple.... I can't wait to get under there and just hook it up right. I never knew.... people made it seem so complicated ... if it isn't a 94 then we have no idea how to make it work .... it is actually very simple and if somone explained it in MECP lingo then it would easily be understood.

djk19

Just wired it up. took about 1 hour to do it right. No more code for the reverse inhibit system. the brown wire in the auto connector was the right one. Spliced in. ran to inside of car where I had wires from pigtail on reverse lockout solenoid. Shortened the wires and connected the brown wire to a 12 volt source (the hidden pink 12v wire in the center console.) then spliced the newly spliced wire from the auto connector to the green wire from the reverse lockout pigtail. Problem solved. I went out and tested it and it just spit the gear right out instead of grinding. it sounds almost as bad as when you dont have the solenoid there but with that solenoid it can't get close.

TedH

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