4l60e removal 95z
#1
4l60e removal 95z
Alright guys I need some help... I'm stuck.. I am trying to remove my 4l60e out of my 95 z28.. I have all the bolts around bellhousing out... I thought I would be able to just slide it out with/out the torque converter.. but i have tried and can't. Not enough space/room to pull it all the way out. So then i tried to unbolt the torque converter.. 3 bolts? but I can not get them loose. I have tried wrenches and sockets.. but I am having trouble keeping the wheel from moving and even when i do keep it still, i can loosen the bolts... Any idea's guys? this is really pissing me off... Thanks
#3
I don't think it's a good idea to try and remove the transmission without taking the converter out with it.
Like Spartan said, you can use a giant screwdriver through the flexplate to hold it still. I usually use my pry bar and jam it between the bottom of the block and one of the holes in the flexplate on the drivers side. Just stick something in there and rotate the flexplate to jam it in place. They make a special tool to hold it still though, you can try going to your local autozone and see if they have one to loan out.
If you're having trouble getting the bolts out, what I usually do is use 2 combination wrenches, with the box end of the 2nd one locked into the open end of the first one for leverage. I usually have better luck with that than using a 1/2" drive ratchet cause of the space issues.
Like Spartan said, you can use a giant screwdriver through the flexplate to hold it still. I usually use my pry bar and jam it between the bottom of the block and one of the holes in the flexplate on the drivers side. Just stick something in there and rotate the flexplate to jam it in place. They make a special tool to hold it still though, you can try going to your local autozone and see if they have one to loan out.
If you're having trouble getting the bolts out, what I usually do is use 2 combination wrenches, with the box end of the 2nd one locked into the open end of the first one for leverage. I usually have better luck with that than using a 1/2" drive ratchet cause of the space issues.
#4
with the tranny. It will make a BIG difference when it all goes back in,
because you'll need to drop the T.C. onto the input shaft and turn the T.C.
until it "drops down" a couple of times. It's WAY easier to do this when
both units are out of the car. This photo sequence removing the4L60E:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.c...oTrannyChange#
#6
The bolts are no reverse thread or anything are they? Next weekend ill try and get it out. Thanks for the tips.
#7
position the torque converter bolt your working with at the bottom, put a good box end wrench on it, smack the wrench sharply with a hammer. That should break em loose. I believe they are installed with thread locking compound at the factory.
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