for those who think having a 12 bolt makes u bulletproof !! think again !!!

especially if ur running an M6 with a street twin on ET drags

yah i broke mine good last night..
it would've been a reasonable 11.8 ish pass at 116 off the bottle with a 1.7 60 or thereabouts .. i had been running 1.9 and 1.8 60s all night cuz my new 10.5 ET drags were hooking too good .. so i launched her at 5k and the car didnt move an inch

the rear end locked up for some odd reason and broke the u joint on the shaft

today i took the cover off .. the gears seem to be ok .. but the posi doesnt turn properly .. the wheels are extremely hard to turn and if u turn one fwd the other goes backwrd .. .
the yoke is totally destroyed and non existent

and to add to that .. my "severe duty" 14 clutch posi was letting go the run before .. the only run i tried to launch on the bottle it tossed me right into the wall as if i had the streeing cranked to the right when i launched

all in all .. im very disapointed in my strange 12 bolt .. didnt wanna have to do this .. but i think i might have to install some more ford products in my car now

 

i love my ford 9 inch it is easy to change ratios takes me about 1 hr to change the diff assembly i love it i have three different ratios i play with

 

Its amazing that I see 12 bolts in a lot of hipo cars when you have the 9" as a replacement choice also. One of the first things back in the 80's was pull out the GM and put in a Dana 60 or a Ford 9". Yes a twelve bolt can be built almost as strong but for a lot more money. Did you know car Dana's used 35 spline axles stock. Not trying to kill 12 bolts but if I had a choice when buying new rear I would always go 9". Next time when you go to the track look at what most chevy's are running. One of the guys we use that sets up rears since the 60's told us the 12 bolt rear even aftermarket still has weak links in the carrier especially the spider gears. He rec the Moroso spider gear kit and I believe he called it a Brute strength posi.

 

If your posi broke, that has nothing to do with whether it's a 12-bolt or a 9".

Rich Krause

 

the posi was broken before the yoke exploded ..

so i need suggestions, get a better stronger yoke (billet ?! where to buy from?) and another u joint for the shaft and put a locker inside the diff .. or chuck the 12 bolt and get a 9 inch with a locker ?!

car does get driven on the street .. and i do attempt to autox it once in a while .. hence no spool .. but i dont wanna rebuilt the posi just to have it totally let go after 10 passes

 

Have to agree with rskrause on this one. Parts can fail on anything, and if the posi was junk the run before you should never have attempted to make another pass until it's fixed. Bad things happen when trying to run more with broken parts.
Just as an fyi, I hit my Strange 12bolt plenty hard, 1.48-1.52 60' times very consistantly and it lives fine. And if you go class racing (stock/super stock) you must use a corporate axle assembly. Some pretty fast guys use this rear without issues.

 

I am not defending the 12-bolt just 'cause I have one. There is no question a 9" is stronger. But a 12-bolt is strong enough. I have a lot of 1.5sec 60' times with a 4,100lb car+driver with an M6 to prove it.

Rich Krause

 

hey rich
would u mind sharing the details of ur rear end with me ?!
everything from the internals, axels yoke, etc .
id rather rebuild me strange than to goto a 9 inch

thanx

 

Didnt u get that rear-end used anyways? It could have been through anything..

Cody

 

F-bud: here's what I'm running.

Moser 12-bolt. 33-spline axles with C-clip eliminators. 3.42 "Pro Street" ring and pinion (from Moser). Eaton posi. Dynotech steel driveshaft with Mark Williams billet yoke and 1350 U-joints. And one of the cast aluminum covers.

Hope this helps.

Rich Krause

 

about how much did all that cost???

 

Ouch, you had to remind me. You really know how to hurt a guy

If I remember right it was ~$2,300.

Rich Krause

 

Mine Moser 12-bolt was about $2400 shipped. I got it fully loaded with 33 spline axles, C-clip eliminators, Eaton 800# posi, ABS, and the aluminum cover. Only problems I've ever had with it have been the tendenacy for the torque arm bolts to want to back out (found a big gooping of Loctite helps, though locking washer may also fix the problem), and one of the axle bearings went on it. Replaced the axle bearing that went out w/ a non-sealed one, and all has been good.

I've pulled several 1.7 60's with it, and even into the 1.6 range, w/ bottle launches without a problem.

Why didn't I go 9"?? Prices were similar, but at the time, no 9" was available with ABS, something I had to have. As far as I know, no one offers a 9" for 3-channel ABS systems, something I didn't want to get rid of. 9" rears are also less efficient and I beieve weigh a bit more too.

IMO, the only advantage for most of us to get a 9" would simply be for the center section swaps. I have a buddy who recently swapped in a Ford 8.8" rear in his 99 T/A, w/ ABS (guess there is a guy doing these now), but after seeing what he paid for it, he would have been better off IMO just buying a 12-bolt.

 

I just as of last night had an issue with my torque arm bolts. I launched on nitrous and heard a snap which is what i believe the torque arm ripping off the rear end, it pretty much ripped the bottom bolts out, or they fell out prior, ether way the thread in the holes are still good so im guessing they may they may have fallen out since the thread is good or it ripped them out w/o messing the thread up somehow , but then again the metal is all torn so they were obviously ripped out. But the two top bolts were still in. I had to tow the car home. Im hopeing it didnt mes anything else up with the rear end floating around. Im so ticked about this right now, i hope its not something in the actual rear end or transmission messed up.

 

double post