Someone had suggested that they have had their 10-bolt last longer with ET's than Nitto DR's with T56, and they're theory was that with the softer sidewall, the flex allowed the rear to almost pre-load instead of the more solid sidewalls of the Nitto's which transferred the power from the wheel to tread more quickly/directly.

Is this a plausable theory? Do you think with a lower hp car (ie. <400rwhp or maybe even 350rwhp) that it would allow the rear to last longer, or would it cause immediate just as DR would?

**subject was supposed to read ET's, not just ET streets**

 

You can't predict if a 10-bolt is going to blow up..... it's pretty much all guess work..... the only time you can is when you stuck it behind a 1200 hp engine w/ a 12 inch wide slick... and then it's fairly plausible that it's going to break.

My car blew it's rear end on all season tires that were 235's. My buddy still has his factory one and has a 450 hp ls1 swap in his f-body, and he's launching on 255 m/t et street radials.

 

I know the 10-bolts are easily broken, I broke one with street tires too. I was just wondering if the ET's -vs- Nittos argument for the sidewall makes sense. If, given the two, that the softer sidewall would be easier on the rear than a stiffer sidewall, given sticky tires.

 

I launch on the same size tire you mention.. I have cut as low as 1.45 60' on the juice before and 1.5X 60's N/A. Prolly around 20+ track passes and the little 10 bolt is still going. I know its a matter of time though.

Both these runs were a 1.51 and a 1.54 60' I believe.

 

Drag radials are harder on the driveline than a slick in some cases . Alot of time drag radials will wheel hop just a little bit letting the drivetrain load and unload very quickly . This shell shocks stuff and can break stuff in a hurry . All in all 7.5" 10 bolts are junk . I still do not know to this day why GM ever installed them in an F body car .