The only mods to the rear suspension are relocation brackets, airbag and tubular lower control arms. I did remove the front swaybar. I think I benefitted more from the weight reduction of the wheels/tires than anything else. I think the reduction was 50-70 lbs.

What mods do you have? Is your car spinning?

 

wow im liking the 846 cam.... i was worried u would have to spin it too high to get good #'s... 6200rpms was right in my range

 

No tire spin, it leaves just like yours, pulls the left front tire and goes, just not as good of a 60ft or et/mph.

 

yea u kno but the same thing lol.... j/p

 

I'm still curious what your 1/8th et and mph is? Very well setup car, no doubt about it. Good job!

 

The 1/8th was 7.439. Mph showed 89.8. I think the clock may have been off since I ran 91 on the previous pass with a better 60' but slower et.

It's funny that on the 11.71 pass, I got wheel spin where I'd been dead hooking on the other passes. I figure this to be the reason why the mph was so high on this pass compared to the 115-116 I was running on the previous passes.

 

If you ran your best ET with a little wheel spin then you need just a little bit looser converter.
The wheel spin allowed your engine to get to it's peak torque a little quicker so it pulled harder longer. A looser converter would let that happen everytime and then with a dead hook you'd improve even more.

 

I was thinking it needed more gear but you could be right. I would hate to mess with this converter since it's leaving so good now. Thanks for the suggestion though. I may have to investigate that further.

Do you think there is much to be gained by switching to longtubes? Would it hurt my bottom end torque?

 

i would say it would help out a lot.... but i dn for sure

 

I went with Kooks stepped 1 3/4-1 7/8" LTs replacing my LPE 1 5/8" shorties and got no gain on the dyno, but dropped .15 in ET and gained 1.5 mph at the track...I was kicking myself on the dyno, but pretty damn happy at the track...The general rule of converters via PI (Vig) is for optimal performance your stall should be 500-700 rpm below the Tq peak...That would mean I'd need a 4000-4400 in place of my 3600...I'm with you its hard to screw with something that appears to be working...I'm going to try 4.10s in place of my 3.73s to bring up the rpms to 6300 at the end with a 26" tire...It also gives me the option of going to a 28" 325 M/T and still be able to pull them...at least thats the theory...and hopefully my new 3" TDs will be worth something over my Borla...or Mrs. ABA383 will kick my ***..

--Alan

 

You really don't loose torque. It might move up the rpm band a little but not much. But it should pull harder in the upper rpms for a better track mph.
Gettitng the gear/tire/converter at the very optimum is tricky and can be expensive. Most of us just get it close and call it good. I'm running 4.10s with 27" QTPs and a 3800 stall in a 4l60e and it's pretty close to getting all there is to get from my little 346.

 

Hey thanks alot. I wonder if the sound of the borla would change with some longtubes.

Because peak torque is now higher in the rpm band I guess I would need to increase the converters' stall speed.

Alan, in your case I can see why you would gain from longtubes. With the power your motor is making it just begs for better breathing. I can't wait to see how your new mods work out or you. I may have to use your setup as a blueprint for my new combo.

 

Wow, you are really leaving the line well. What tires?

 

That day I was using a friends' 27" hoosier QTP's. I normally run 275/50/15 bfg drag radials. I had only used those 27" tires on 1 other occasion. The 60' times for both tires were pretty much the same with a best of 1.55 for the bfgs and 1.56 for the hoosiers.

 

wow thats pretty interesting huh? radials and slicks both have about the same 60ft times?