You do not have to dyno tune it, just get a few pulls on the dyno. Most places offer something like 3 pulls for $75

 

A dyno run is less strain on the engine, unless your car weighs less than 2000 lbs or so. Also, you could be putting your motor in serious jeopardy by racing it if ithere is a problem. I am simly amazed that you would continue to add parts to make it faster when it is obvious that there is something majorly wrong. My car went 13.8 @ 101 on a slipping clutch when it was bone stock. All I have now is LTs and a CAi and I'm pulling LS1s from any gear and to any speed. If I had a hotcam and it slowed back down, I'd want to know why.

Why ask at all when all you are going to do is throw more parts at it? Why not FIX the problem at hand? The only way to do that is with more info, and for $75 you could get a lot of info. Anywho, I hope that stall gets you 8 mph and about a second or more of e.t.

 

UMMMMMM THAT'S KINDA WHY I'M ASKING FOR HELP

I'm trying to find WHAT I NEED TO BUY to fix the problem. It's not gonna be a free fix obviously. People are recommending me to get the stall, and ur mocking me for considering it?

That's why i asked if a dyno tune is worth it. Or if a stall would help more. Sorry for not having infinite money to spend on trying to fix the problem

 

I know everyone's budget is different, but if $75 for a lot of useful info is infinite to you, I have bad news for you; you sure as heck shouldn't have bought an F-body. Also, I'm not mocking you for considering a stall. I would recommend you consider it, and then say, well, most likely I will NOT get 8 mph from a stall and I should look elsewhere for the problem. Look back at Jon's post, he gained 2 mph from the stall, and then got the rest of the power from a MAF convertor and injectors. You might need injectors, and if you get it tuned, you shouldn't need the MAF convertor. I wouldn't even neccessarily recommend a dyno TUNE, but just a PULL. It will tell you if your car is running rich or lean, how much power, if you are getting valve float, if power is dropping off for some reason, etc. Also, you might want to have someone hook up a scan tool and make sure you aren't getting any knock at WOT. Then, you can send the dyno sheet to PCMFORLESS and he should be able to get you pretty much spot on for a/f and shift points. THEN you could do the stall, so the car would go from 13.5 @ 108 to a 12.5 @ 107. Numbers are fictitous of course, and used for an example.

 

It will also be able to tell you if the tranny is robbing you of power by the numbers, and lot's of useful info.

 

A little off the subject but...Yes, he only got 2MPH but look at how much ET he dropped with just a converter swap. Your not looking to gain HP with a converter. He said he was running about the same ET as Wheelmanz28 so he dropped about ~.6 in the 1/4. At the track I don't really care about MPH, but when you can drop ~.6 in the 1/4 that is fine with me.

I would see if the tuning makes a difference and throw in a 3500 stall and see what happens. I agree, throwing it on a dyno wouldn't hurt either. Just my .02.

Brian

 

sorry I agree with Brain, stop throwing money at the car until you figure out whats wrong with it, and I don't mean you just have a parts mismatch, I mean something is majorly screwed up in your car. you have enough mods for mid 12's and your running near stock times. Before you throw a stall at it or change gears, get a scanner, hook it up and get it on a Dyno. The combination of the scanning parameters and the AFR from the dyno will tell you if there is a problem.

If stock cars can run those times with stock gearing and stock stall, theres no way you shouldn't be way faster than that.