Stock heads, valves and spring? If so I'm pretty certain you are shifting too high. When my car was close to stock like yours, I was shifting around 5800 and I got much better ET's.

Your mph is down. I again think that your valvtrain is the place too look, provided plugs, wires, coil, opti, are functioning, 02's are good, and the car appears to run fine otherwise.

Basically, the performance of your car is right where it should be, if it did not have the hotcam. Thats why I would look at the valvetrain, or as another fellow said, maybe at the PCM tuning. Something is quite wrong.

 

The way www.bvperformance.com work is that he loads a program file into ur car for a specific cam, then he drives the car around and uses scan tools to make further adjustments based on the results. It's not really a dyno tune, but more of a comprehensive "street" tune. He spent a great deal of time on my car and assured me it was running well. The car felt like it was running pretty strong, but i didn't notice the power gains i had expected from the hot cam kit.

I'm very interested in hearing this offer i can't refuse Dan K i need all the help i can get.

 

Hmmm...so he just guessed as to what your car likes as far as WOT stuff. Nice.
An offer you can't refuse huh?
Like I said, e-mail me.

 

Dan, u got mail

 

Well after a good converter 2800worked fine with my hotcam setup 12.30's@109mph with et streets. All I have is a mailorder tune which you probably need . Check for exhaust leaks and knock retard with a scanner which really hurt performance. Something is definately wrong somewhere. Don't assume anything is working correctly until you check it out yourself or have someone do it for you. good luck.

 

Drive around w/ a laptop and make some datamaster logs of your car. That will tell you if you're getting knock retard, air intake problems, dtc's, etc. Do that first and go from there. If you need to, make a post on your local area's section of the site and ask someone with a laptop to take a 10 minute ride with you. That's what I did and it worked great.
Good luck...once you get it fixed and you put the stall in you will easily be in the 12's at 107-110 I'm sure.

 

A while ago I was running almost the exact same times as you with almost the exact same setup. I added a 3500 stall and drag radials and dropped my times to 13.1 at 103, then added a cutout and maf translator tuned for 12.8-13.0 AFR and ran 12.60s at 106, then added some 24 lb svo's and retuned the maft and ran a 12.37 at 108.5. You would probably benefit from these mods similarly I would assume. Also, if your AFR is already 12.8-13.0, a maft won't help.

Hope this helps,
Jon

 

first rule out problems that could cause performance issues with a stock motor...

you need a convertor...the 3.73's are helping you some, but you need to lug that motor into the powerband quicker..
i use yank but vig is a good product too

try another tune...

get a scanner...autoxray --175 bucks...

good luck i hope you dont give up on the LT!..

i have the money and i still wont buy an LS1...dont bash me guys, i have respect for the motor,, but i prefer my LT1... and i argue my point well with my timeslips...


good luck with the hotcam....

 

I ran consistant 14.40's on a stock motor 95Z w/2.73's. I switched to a 3200 Vig and ran 13.95 leaving the line soft so it would shift right. You should look into a converter. I guarantee it will wake up your motor.You should also at least get a laptop and some free logging software (Datamaster,Freescan, PCMcomm) to see what's going on with the engiine too.It can be frustrating but keep at it and you;ll be glad you did.
Skip

 

Thanx for the advice all, i really appreciate the help...

The car is getting new front brakes on monday..
Also:
I'm also having a custom pipe made to replace my cat...
I've decided to drop to a 3.42 rear end gear...
And I'm ordering PCMFORLESS tuning as we speak...

In the next couple of weeks I'm gonna order a Vigilante Torque Converter. I'm debating on stall speeds. Either 2800, 3000, ro 3200. I'm leaning more towards a 3000 or possibly a 2800. Any input on this subject would also be appreciated.

 

If you choose a 2800 you will wish you went with a 3200 but then you might have the highstall no shift problem. but there is a cure for it too. Some have PCM4less change the shift parameters and others don't need it. I went with a TCI trans control unit. A 3.42 might be a good choice too.
Skip

 

Why? That will just make it worse. At least the 3.73 is keeping you in your powerband more after a shift.

I guess my offer wasn't good enough?
IMHO, the pcmforless tune won't be much different than the BV stuff.

I have a buddy that has a 2800-3000 stall and 3.42's with his hotcam. I think he needs more stall and more gear. Car went 12.8@105 w/ 1.80 60ft.

 

How many miles and what shape is your auto in? The reason I ask is that I know how it is to mod and then go slower when an auto goes south, and I have not seen it mentioned. It can kill both ET and MPH. It may not be the problem but it is a possibility.

 

A question no one asked yet, how does it "seem" to run? Does it feel fast as hell, but not getting the number, or does it feel like a stock car. First thing, I wouldn't start adding things like a convertor. All that is going to do is help e.t., and your car's mph stinks too. I would put it on a dyno for sure, and see what is happening. Timing probably is ok, probably not perfect, but I would worry more about a/f ratio. For some reason, most lt1s run rich when stock from what I hear. Not mine; 14.0:1 bone stock! Go figure. Maybe yours is doing the same. Also, do you have the hotcam "kit" or just the cam? If you don't have the valvesprings, like tnthub said, that car is gonna have valve float bad. I would think that 6200 is probably still a bit much for hotcam cars. The only way to tell 100% where to shift, is by putting it onto a dyno. Wait, back to that. Why would you NOT want to put the car on a dyno? I would wager there is one within 4 hours of you. Would you really complain for a 4 hour drive and have your car running mid to low 12s at 108 - 110? Some people like castor oil I guess.

 

The car does have the Hot Cam kit, as it says in my Sig...

The car seems to be running OK, but honestly i felt a bigger difference when my catback was put on over the gears, headers, and cam.

The tranny seems to **** fine, i put the trans cooler on inorder to increase the life of it.

I'm worried about putting my car on the dyno cuz i hear a lot of dyno passes are a strain on the engine. Plus the $400 it costs for a dyno tune, is that really worth it? Will it make that big of a difference? I don't really wanna dyno tune it just yet, knowing that i will be adding more mods to it soon.i dont want to pay $400 each time i need a tune done.