Drag Racing Technique Improve your track times

subframe con.s or 8. cage?

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Old Jun 3, 2003 | 11:01 PM
  #1  
IrocSS85's Avatar
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From: waterford, MI - USA
subframe con.s or 8. cage?

or both? I know my chassis is flexing pretty good, since I have ttops, et streets, 3500 stall, lightened front end, swaybar!, and batt. relocated.

what should i do first? If I do the cage, will I need to install subframe conn.s still anyways? the car will run 12.3-12.4's now, but after the N20 gets finished, it'll be running low 11's hopefully.

chris
Old Jun 3, 2003 | 11:30 PM
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P0G02001's Avatar
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do the cage
Old Jun 3, 2003 | 11:36 PM
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I would do the cage if you are wanting to go that route eventually. You can always have the lower bars installed so there is no need for subframes. I got lots of pics of cages if you need some ideas or whatever.

Steven
Old Jun 4, 2003 | 04:37 PM
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Arrow I'm going opposite...

of my compodraes here. SFC's are one of the bascis FIRST things you do. You gotta stiffen the lower before stiffening the top.
We set / anchor the house to the basement, not the other way around.

For your anticipated power / time levels you WILL need to do both at some time. Crawl under your car and see if any evidence exist of metal fatigue. like the area under the rear of the doors. Where that LCA is-a-workin'!

You know who... HInk
Old Jun 5, 2003 | 09:20 AM
  #5  
Joe Brodman's Avatar
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Re: I'm going opposite...

Originally posted by Redbird
of my compodraes here. SFC's are one of the bascis FIRST things you do. You gotta stiffen the lower before stiffening the top.
We set / anchor the house to the basement, not the other way around.

For your anticipated power / time levels you WILL need to do both at some time. Crawl under your car and see if any evidence exist of metal fatigue. like the area under the rear of the doors. Where that LCA is-a-workin'!

You know who... HInk
Dunno if I'd 100% agree w/ that or not (though I personally have a 6-point cage and SLP weld-in SFC, which are the beefiest available for 4th gens).

I have a friend w/ an 83 Z. Budget 355/100 shot/TH350. The car hooks like mad, pulling 1.4x 60's. Only thing he has stiffening his car is a 6-point cage. Car doesn't seem to flex too much, and has ran 10.5 before. Stock front suspension and just minimal stuff + 12 bolt out back (though did run a couple high 1.6 60's on 275 width BFG DR's on the stock 8.5" 10-bolt open rear....he's a pretty decent driver). T-top car as well.

Guess that's an example of a 3rd gen doing pretty well w/ out subframe connectors. Would they help him....dunno; would add weight though.........
Old Jun 5, 2003 | 09:32 AM
  #6  
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Whada are ya hooking to?

With a roll cage that is? Stamped sheet metal. You wanna trust your life to a cage welded to sheet metal without additional support underneath? Not me... lets put some form of connector under there to tie the front and rear portions of the "sheet metal" together, underneath.

Sheet metal crumples too easy under extremes, BEEF it up FIRST!
IMHO of course. You all do what you want,

Just don't call me when your cage came tearing out the bottom and left you skidding on your HEAD!

HInk
Old Jun 5, 2003 | 10:29 AM
  #7  
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FYI: I agree with Hink.
Old Jun 5, 2003 | 11:39 AM
  #8  
Redbird's Avatar
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Arrow Well, well... well!

TNT... you gotta be the first guy EVER to agree with me on this board! I know for sure you've DISAGREED alot!!!

HInki (always on the other side of the fence)
Old Jun 5, 2003 | 11:02 PM
  #9  
IrocSS85's Avatar
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yeah, I think I'll do the subframes first. they are easy to install and I really think they will make a big diff. spohn makes a really sweet set that I can get shipped for like $200. thats the best one Ive seen. I'll still do the cage, but I cant afford it right now. soon though after the suspension.

thanks guys.
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