Street/Strip (mostly strip) suspension suggestions?
Street/Strip (mostly strip) suspension suggestions?
Well, so far I'm cutting 1.7's and I'm sure I could probably get some more by working with my suspension...
Open to suggestions as to what the next step is that I should take with my car... I plan to up the stall some more, just got 3.73's (no new times), but waiting on the new stall till I dyno and check my power curves.
Right now all I have in the car suspension wise are BMR LCA's and a Hotchkis panhard rod. I plan to pull the front sway bar on the next track rental I attend...
What's next? Hal shocks? kinda an expensive venture that I plan for next year, but anything else in the meantime that would help my 60's?
Open to suggestions as to what the next step is that I should take with my car... I plan to up the stall some more, just got 3.73's (no new times), but waiting on the new stall till I dyno and check my power curves.
Right now all I have in the car suspension wise are BMR LCA's and a Hotchkis panhard rod. I plan to pull the front sway bar on the next track rental I attend...
What's next? Hal shocks? kinda an expensive venture that I plan for next year, but anything else in the meantime that would help my 60's?
LCA relocation brackets and an adjustable torque arm so you can change the pinion angle. An air bag in the right rear spring. These are all tuning aids so finding the best setting is a trial and error method. What works well on one car may not work on another.
Shocks and springs are nice but not always a good investment. I ran 12.0's with factory shocks and springs for a couple of years. If it's mostly track then get some Koni SPA1 shocks. They're expensive but are a shock designed for drag racing not just an old technology 90/10 shock.
Shocks and springs are nice but not always a good investment. I ran 12.0's with factory shocks and springs for a couple of years. If it's mostly track then get some Koni SPA1 shocks. They're expensive but are a shock designed for drag racing not just an old technology 90/10 shock.
Originally posted by rskrause
Hard to analyze that 1.7 short time without knowing what tires you are using and how you are launching the car. Actually, the whole time slip would be of use.
Rich Krause
Hard to analyze that 1.7 short time without knowing what tires you are using and how you are launching the car. Actually, the whole time slip would be of use.
Rich Krause

I'm launching about 200 rpm or so before my tires start to spin.. using my 2800 Vigi, I stall it to about 2000rpm. I go WOT on the 3rd yellow and dead hook on Nitto's using about 16psi or so.
Full slip:
60' 1.767
330' 5.151
1/8 7.980 @ 87.11
1000' 10.443
ET: 12.533 @ 107.42
best slip so far
I don't see anything wrong with that. It could be that you've reached the limit of the current combination of parts.
Your diff gears and tire size should match the rest of the parts. The best setup will have you crossing the finish line at or just before your shift point in high gear (1:1).
Lowering the 60' time means increasing torque without overpowering the wheels (suspension work and tires). The simplest way to increase torque is with a gear swap. All the shifting should be done in the first 1/8 mile where torque does all the work. The last 1/8 mile you should be in high gear and the engine is doing a brute HP pull to the finish line.
Your diff gears and tire size should match the rest of the parts. The best setup will have you crossing the finish line at or just before your shift point in high gear (1:1).
Lowering the 60' time means increasing torque without overpowering the wheels (suspension work and tires). The simplest way to increase torque is with a gear swap. All the shifting should be done in the first 1/8 mile where torque does all the work. The last 1/8 mile you should be in high gear and the engine is doing a brute HP pull to the finish line.
Originally posted by Javier97Z28
doh.. sorry, sometimes I assume I'm posting on my local board where people know my setup
I'm launching about 200 rpm or so before my tires start to spin.. using my 2800 Vigi, I stall it to about 2000rpm. I go WOT on the 3rd yellow and dead hook on Nitto's using about 16psi or so.
Full slip:
60' 1.767
330' 5.151
1/8 7.980 @ 87.11
1000' 10.443
ET: 12.533 @ 107.42
best slip so far
doh.. sorry, sometimes I assume I'm posting on my local board where people know my setup

I'm launching about 200 rpm or so before my tires start to spin.. using my 2800 Vigi, I stall it to about 2000rpm. I go WOT on the 3rd yellow and dead hook on Nitto's using about 16psi or so.
Full slip:
60' 1.767
330' 5.151
1/8 7.980 @ 87.11
1000' 10.443
ET: 12.533 @ 107.42
best slip so far
Thanks guys.. I'll be heading out to the track tonight if it doesn't get rained out (like I have a feeling it is.. damn florida weather..)
I'll try launching a few hundred RPM off idle and see if flashing the stall will help some.
I'll report tonight
I'll try launching a few hundred RPM off idle and see if flashing the stall will help some.
I'll report tonight
Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
I don't see anything wrong with that. It could be that you've reached the limit of the current combination of parts.
Your diff gears and tire size should match the rest of the parts. The best setup will have you crossing the finish line at or just before your shift point in high gear (1:1).
Lowering the 60' time means increasing torque without overpowering the wheels (suspension work and tires). The simplest way to increase torque is with a gear swap. All the shifting should be done in the first 1/8 mile where torque does all the work. The last 1/8 mile you should be in high gear and the engine is doing a brute HP pull to the finish line.
I don't see anything wrong with that. It could be that you've reached the limit of the current combination of parts.
Your diff gears and tire size should match the rest of the parts. The best setup will have you crossing the finish line at or just before your shift point in high gear (1:1).
Lowering the 60' time means increasing torque without overpowering the wheels (suspension work and tires). The simplest way to increase torque is with a gear swap. All the shifting should be done in the first 1/8 mile where torque does all the work. The last 1/8 mile you should be in high gear and the engine is doing a brute HP pull to the finish line.
Rich Krause
Yep, like my first post said, just got rid of my 3.23's and installed a set of 3.73's. I haven't been out to the track on them yet, so I'll find out tonight (hopefully) if I'm overpowering the Nitto's with 3.73's or not..
Once these Nitto's are worn out I was planning on a set of ET Streets on 15x8 Welds
Once these Nitto's are worn out I was planning on a set of ET Streets on 15x8 Welds
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