Still cant hook up
okay, i'll look into trying to find a set of used fronts, what about the rears, you think it will help picking up a set of the summits for $50 or should i just leave them stock? also as far as the burnout goes, i have been reading on ls1tech that people are having really good luck with abotu 22psi and a small burnout, and MT's website reccomends little to no burnout, any thoughts on that? Some over there are saying they were having a harder time hooking with a longer burnout but were cutting 1.3 60's with just a small burnout (and a lot more suspension than me). Should the burnouts be done dry or wet?
Last edited by evilbeef54; Dec 14, 2008 at 06:37 PM.
you dont need a torque arm yet. no way. with a 3:73 gear, i got a 1.57 60. with the 3:42 gears I was still pulling 1.61-1.64's pretty consitantly.
my susp. consisted of cut front stock springs (bad idea for the track, but they were like that when I bought the car, and it sat right), removed front sway bar, stock front struts. rear susp stock lower control arms, solid Iroc bushings and boxed, stock torque arm, stock rear shocks, stock rear springs, air bags in both springs. usually bout 10psi drivers side, 15psi pass. side. now I do have some 15" ET street's on there. but I also have a set of 17" DRAG RADIALS and in 90 deg. heat I was still pulling 1.6 60's. in cold weather the 17" drag radials wouldnt hook at ALL. I also had a 383 and 3800 stall convertor. that being said, I think 1.90 60's is bout all your goin to get without a stall convertor. but if its spinning really bad guess theer is potential for better times.
I think your tires are holding you back the most of anything. there's not too much tread width and those 4.10's are shocking them. Ive also heard that drag radials work better with out much burnout. too much heat actually makes those drag radials greasy. stay in first gear, get up to redline and roll out of the box under power (ofcourse letting off right away soon as the car moves forward) so they will burn for a few feet moving forward and making sure all the water is out from under the tire before you stop spinning. with my ET streets, I go through first gear, shift into second, and go mostly through that gear as well.
my susp. consisted of cut front stock springs (bad idea for the track, but they were like that when I bought the car, and it sat right), removed front sway bar, stock front struts. rear susp stock lower control arms, solid Iroc bushings and boxed, stock torque arm, stock rear shocks, stock rear springs, air bags in both springs. usually bout 10psi drivers side, 15psi pass. side. now I do have some 15" ET street's on there. but I also have a set of 17" DRAG RADIALS and in 90 deg. heat I was still pulling 1.6 60's. in cold weather the 17" drag radials wouldnt hook at ALL. I also had a 383 and 3800 stall convertor. that being said, I think 1.90 60's is bout all your goin to get without a stall convertor. but if its spinning really bad guess theer is potential for better times.
I think your tires are holding you back the most of anything. there's not too much tread width and those 4.10's are shocking them. Ive also heard that drag radials work better with out much burnout. too much heat actually makes those drag radials greasy. stay in first gear, get up to redline and roll out of the box under power (ofcourse letting off right away soon as the car moves forward) so they will burn for a few feet moving forward and making sure all the water is out from under the tire before you stop spinning. with my ET streets, I go through first gear, shift into second, and go mostly through that gear as well.
Last edited by IrocSS85; Dec 24, 2008 at 11:02 PM.
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