Any of you M6 bracket racers, could you help me solve a dilema? I am thinking of selling my car to get an auto. Are any of you consistant enough to be competitive as bracket racers? I am wondering if most of my disapointment comes from bad syncros, and need of a better clutch. I keep on loosing races because I miss a gear here, rollout here, etc..
I was wondering if any of you had this problem, and were able to overcome it to become good bracket racers, or should I just get an A4. Please don't turn this into a which is better post, I want real input please.
Thanks.

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FOR SALE

Black 1998 Z-28, 38K miles, 6spd, leather, PDL, PW, PS, Cruise, T-Tops, Dual air bags, PDS, A/C, Monsoon sound system with 12 disk CD changer, Chrome wheels, Pro 5.0 shifter, Exhaust cutout, Jet skip shift eliminator, BMR anti-squat brackets, SFCs, Ram air mod, EGR mod, TB bypass, Removed baffles from stock lid, Descreened and ported MAF, Kelley Blue Book not including low miles is $16,520 Asking $15,000 obo.


Team NW F-Body

LS1 Racers

 

I had a M6 in my 94 and I was pretty good. I won the nmca EFI 12 class at the world finals in atlanta last sept and have won many other small bracket races with the M6. However I also lost many more from blown shift and so on. I currently have a th350 with a 4000 converter and the consistency is unbelieveable. You can be competitive with a M6, but you have to be more precise than with an auto and it's more work. As far as getting rid of your car, that's up to you.

Randy

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94Z 355 cid Hughes performance TH350 with 4000 TC, ported and polished 2.00, 1.57 valve heads, ported intake, 52mm TB, Bullet custom grind cam, Comp cams R series lifters, Hooker LT's, custom dual exh. with dynomax bullet mufflers,CSI elec. WP,MSD Digital 6+ ign,Autogage 5" monster tach with shiftlite,AC delete pulley, CC pro mag 1.6 rockers, Forged Ross pistons, 11:1 cr,B&M Pro stick shifter, eagle rods, polished stock crank,balanced rotating assembly , 24lb SVO injectors,Nitrousworks wet kit, AFPR, pcmforless custom program, alston SFCs, boxed LCAs with relocation brackets, tubular panhard rod,chassis engineering 8-point rollbar with 5-point harness, BMR Trac Pak, moser 12 bolt with 4.10's,1LE DS,Hurst line lock, eibach drag launch kit and airbag, HAL 12 way adj struts,CE 3-way adj. shocks, 15x3.5 front and 15x8 rear Weld Draglites with 27x11.5x15 Hossier QTP's. 1.607 60ft 7.62 @ 89.62 mph 1/8 12.02 @ 110.48 mph on motor.
1.55 60ft 7.16 @ 96.04 mph 11.27 @ 118.41 mph (125 shot) Shooting for 10's
In memory of the greatest
#3 Dale Earnhardt The Intimidator

 

I'm pretty consistant with an M6, but I've got a fortune tied up in my Richmond 6 spd. and clutch set up. The trick to not missing a shift is proper air gap on the clutch. Your stock master and slave cylinder are not adjustable and usually don't have enough travel. I had to fabricate mounts to use a Wilwood 7/8" master cylinder and a CNC adjustable push type slave cylinder. The air gap can then be adjusted by raising or lowering the clutch pedal with the threaded push rod on the Wilwood master cylinder. Just don't over do it with the air gap if you are using a diaphram pressure plate. If you disengage it too far, the pedal will stick to the floor. Most aftermarket tranny manufacturers suggest a .050" air gap on the clutch to get a clean shift. A "tee" handle on the shifter, angled so it's aimed at third gear will help, also.

As for rolling out, do you have a line lock on your front brakes. If not, get one. Then install a micro switch on your shifter that turns on in first gear. Wire it in line with the starter safety switch on your clutch pedal and a toggle switch to turn it all on to your line lock. That way, when you stage the car, the car is in first gear, and the clutch is down, and you've tapped the brake, the front brakes will stay on until you pop the clutch. I did this for quite a few years. Then if you really want to get into the bracket racing, install a McLeod Line Launch system on the clutch hydraulics and wire it into a delay box and a 2-step like I did, with a button on the steering wheel to launch the car.

Now, armed with that info, I hope you've got a 9 inch or 12 bolt rear or you are going to break something.

Let me know if you need it and I will e-mail you a wiring diagram.

quick91rs@team.camaroz28.com

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91 Camaro RS
Too many mods to list here

81 Ford F100 300 6 cyl (daily driver)

Pacific full suspension MTN bike
Pacific front suspension MTN bike
(spare tires for the Ford LOL)
http://www.quick91rs.cz28.com

[This message has been edited by quick91rs (edited August 11, 2002).]

[This message has been edited by quick91rs (edited August 11, 2002).]

 

I had a higher level of success with a six speed than I have had since going automatic.

The reason I switched was I couldn't keep a clutch in it.

That said, your choice depends on your priorities. If you plan on bracket racing a lot and putting effort into winning, it will probably be easier to go with an automatic. Because yourcar is currently a manual, you can install a non computer controlled automatic with manual valve body without much dificulty.

The only tricky part will be in getting it to look good inside the car but if you are primarily racing the vehicle it doesn't matter too much anyway.

I never had problems with rolling through the beams. Most tracks are level at the starting line and if not or if I wanted to just bump in, I could use the line lock.

What are your priorities with the car?

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'94 Black Z28, 383, 700R4
1/8 ET: 7.49
1/4 ET: 11.86
1/4 MPH: 112
http://www.downtime.cz28.com.index.html

 

Hey, tnthub. Just looked at your site. Nice ride!!! Don't you just love sitting in that black car in the staging lanes with the windows up when it's 90+ degrees out. Oh, but we can roll the windows down while waiting. Whoops, just wiped the dial in off the window. LOL. I came back from Bluegrass Raceway Friday night with a heat induced headache from hell. Makes it kind of hard to concentrate on the tree when the car is on the two step banging my aching head. Needless to say, I got treed and was first round runner up. I think I need to paint mine white.

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91 Camaro RS
Too many mods to list here

81 Ford F100 300 6 cyl (daily driver)

Pacific full suspension MTN bike
Pacific front suspension MTN bike
(spare tires for the Ford LOL)
http://www.quick91rs.cz28.com

[This message has been edited by quick91rs (edited August 11, 2002).]

[This message has been edited by quick91rs (edited August 11, 2002).]

 

I've been running the stick for 3 years with pretty good success but not good enought to get to the next level. I'm done with the stick shift. I love driving the 6 speed on the street but I'm sick and tired of loseing due to the stick. Using a line lock or 2step is a no-no in the class I'm running. Yea I have the idea to connect another linelock into the clutch hydrolics and rig it to the radio switch on the stearing wheel. Click and launch. Totally illegal but a good idea. I decided to keep the Formula with the stick and run in on the street. Next year I'll run it only for fun events and run another car for points. The stick just adds another thing to deal with when racing. Auto cars do have the advantage in bracket racing.

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'95 FORMULA Blue-Green Chameleon, M6, Suncoast WS6 ram air hood, K&N, Granetilli MAS, BMR supension, Hypertech program & 160 stat, LT4 knock module, Hurst shifter, Star Stage II clutch, Borla Cat Back, Goodrich Drag Radials, Moser 12-bolt 4.11 rear, 13.18@102 1.90 60' on the breaks, last run of the 2001 season

 

Man you guys have given some good info THANKS!

I think I will stick to the M6

I am going to get a Mcleod twin disk clutch, with adjustable master cylinder, then get the Harlan shift light, and two step, as well as the Hurst roll control line lock.

Do any of you guys know where I can get better components for my tranny, like heavier duty syncros, or gear sets so they are stronger?

 

Yeah Mike! Do not even ask the tranny guy who took you out in the finals Friday night!!!

I have tried to tell you this stuff before but because I am not a million miles away you won't listen

I have always said the M6 guys on our team have done well you just needed more toys

Oh yeah BESIDES red lighting it helps to run on your dail and not 3/10th under it You know better when racing me ...In a car that ran with in .080 ALL night long even on the brakes hehehe

I just blow guys like you out the other end

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Ellis
Team Captain
Team North West F-Body
www.teamnwfbody.org

 

I was just asking you, and anyone else that was on hear.

Do you know of a good tranny shop for manuals, and where I can get better componets for it like snycros gears etc..?

 

Here (Correct spelling)

Also do you know what would be a good price for a rebiuld, and clutch install?

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Black 1998 Z-28, 6spd, leather, T-Tops,

Mods:
Pro 5.0 shifter, Exhaust cutout, Jet skip shift eliminator, BMR anti-squat brackets, BMR LCAs, SFCs, FTRA, EGR mod, TB bypass, Whisper lid, Holley powershot filter, Descreened and ported MAF, SLP fan switch, WOT mod,


Team NW F-Body

LS1 Racers

 

I was tied for #1 in points in Street Eliminator until I got spanked the first round on Sunday. My line lock is tied into my clutch starter switch to avoid rolling out of the lights. I use a B&M shifter with a T handle. I don't power shift, just concentrate on clean precise shifts. I still miss one evey now an then though. My key to success is the tires. Trying to launch an M6 car on street or drag radials is almost impossible to do consistantly. I'm running ET streets and adjust my launch RPM and air pressure to match the track conditions. I also run 2 classes so that I have the extra time shots to get the right combo figured out before eliminations start. This can be done, but the deck is stacked against you.

Hope this helps!
Steve

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94 Formula M6 4.10 Strange 12 bolt Spohn Subs,LCA,LCA Brackets, & PHR,Moroso Cold Air, B&M Ripper w/ T handle/w switch , Hurst Line Loc,ET Streets, FLP's with B&B Triflow's, Taylor Wires
Street Twin, Spool
CC306, R lifters, Pro Mag 1.6's
Cloyes Double
Protune by me (Protune?)

3710# Pig Fat Race Weight
335 RWHP best 60' - 1.76
Best 1/8 - 8.05 @ 86.5
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