Just got back from my first night at the dragstrip...input
Re: Just got back from my first night at the dragstrip...input
What will taking off the swaybar do?
I had a pretty built Jeep before I entered the muscle car world, so i'm assuming it keeps the tires firmly planted?
I had a pretty built Jeep before I entered the muscle car world, so i'm assuming it keeps the tires firmly planted?
Re: Just got back from my first night at the dragstrip...input
Disconnecting the front sway bar at the track will allow the front end to rise a bit more than if it was attached. This allows better weight transfer from the front to the rear of the car at the launch which helps the rear tires stick instead of spin.
It is usually finding the proper combination of things to make the most out of what you have that makes your runs consistent. Over the years I removed my front sway bar, installed lightweight and narrow front rims and tires, loose (90/10) front shocks and drag springs. I did so only as required. If something worked I didn't just go and upgrade it. I waited until something didn't work or until track conditions required I try something else. I couldn't see the sense in spending money and wondering if what I spent it on would lower my ET by "X" amount as racing simply doesn't work that way at an amateur level. For me to quantify in net terms the amount of gain I received from removing my front sway bar would be impossible. However I know that day in and day out the benefit from that change assists the other suspencsion components in performing as advertised.
On your car I would just unhook it on one side at the track and wire it up so it doen't swing free. If you become more serious or get into points racing or something then go ahead and remove it. I threw mine out years back as it saved a few pounds. If i remember correctly I removed it at the same time as I put the battery in the wheelwell by the passenger rear tire.
It is usually finding the proper combination of things to make the most out of what you have that makes your runs consistent. Over the years I removed my front sway bar, installed lightweight and narrow front rims and tires, loose (90/10) front shocks and drag springs. I did so only as required. If something worked I didn't just go and upgrade it. I waited until something didn't work or until track conditions required I try something else. I couldn't see the sense in spending money and wondering if what I spent it on would lower my ET by "X" amount as racing simply doesn't work that way at an amateur level. For me to quantify in net terms the amount of gain I received from removing my front sway bar would be impossible. However I know that day in and day out the benefit from that change assists the other suspencsion components in performing as advertised.
On your car I would just unhook it on one side at the track and wire it up so it doen't swing free. If you become more serious or get into points racing or something then go ahead and remove it. I threw mine out years back as it saved a few pounds. If i remember correctly I removed it at the same time as I put the battery in the wheelwell by the passenger rear tire.
Re: Just got back from my first night at the dragstrip...input
Originally Posted by JakeRobb
There is a third beam, after the beams for the staging lights. The clock for your ET starts when you trip that beam. The Reaction Time clock starts on green, and stops when you trip the same beam.
You could have a 30-second reaction time and a 9-second ET.
You could have a 30-second reaction time and a 9-second ET.
As you roll in and block the first one upper stage lights come on
As you move farther in lower stage lights come on
As you leave the clock starts when you roll out of the second beam
The amount of time that it takes from when the green comes on until you roll out of the second beam is your reaction time. That's why you leave on the 3rd yellow so that you'll roll out of the beam right when the green comes on.
Re: Just got back from my first night at the dragstrip...input
Originally Posted by AL SS590 M6
Only 2 beams Jake.
As you roll in and block the first one upper stage lights come on
As you move farther in lower stage lights come on
As you leave the clock starts when you roll out of the second beam
The amount of time that it takes from when the green comes on until you roll out of the second beam is your reaction time. That's why you leave on the 3rd yellow so that you'll roll out of the beam right when the green comes on.
As you roll in and block the first one upper stage lights come on
As you move farther in lower stage lights come on
As you leave the clock starts when you roll out of the second beam
The amount of time that it takes from when the green comes on until you roll out of the second beam is your reaction time. That's why you leave on the 3rd yellow so that you'll roll out of the beam right when the green comes on.
Re: Just got back from my first night at the dragstrip...input
I'm pretty sure TMP (Cayuga) uses 3 beams as well? 
I think breaking the first beam (rolling through/past it) sets "Pre-Stage", the second beam sets "Staged" and that's where you want to stage SHALLOW vs. DEEP, because in those few short inches, you've got a chance to get a "rolling start" before you break the 3rd beam which actually starts the clock
.
I may be WAY wrong, but I wonder if there aren't 2 different systems which ultimately perform the EXACT same function, just using different computer logic (one requires broken beam to for staged and rolling out to activate, one requires all beams intact and breaking a 3rd beam to activate?

I think breaking the first beam (rolling through/past it) sets "Pre-Stage", the second beam sets "Staged" and that's where you want to stage SHALLOW vs. DEEP, because in those few short inches, you've got a chance to get a "rolling start" before you break the 3rd beam which actually starts the clock
.I may be WAY wrong, but I wonder if there aren't 2 different systems which ultimately perform the EXACT same function, just using different computer logic (one requires broken beam to for staged and rolling out to activate, one requires all beams intact and breaking a 3rd beam to activate?
Re: Just got back from my first night at the dragstrip...input
Originally Posted by Capn Pete
I'm pretty sure TMP (Cayuga) uses 3 beams as well? 
I think breaking the first beam (rolling through/past it) sets "Pre-Stage", the second beam sets "Staged" and that's where you want to stage SHALLOW vs. DEEP, because in those few short inches, you've got a chance to get a "rolling start" before you break the 3rd beam which actually starts the clock
.
I may be WAY wrong, but I wonder if there aren't 2 different systems which ultimately perform the EXACT same function, just using different computer logic (one requires broken beam to for staged and rolling out to activate, one requires all beams intact and breaking a 3rd beam to activate?

I think breaking the first beam (rolling through/past it) sets "Pre-Stage", the second beam sets "Staged" and that's where you want to stage SHALLOW vs. DEEP, because in those few short inches, you've got a chance to get a "rolling start" before you break the 3rd beam which actually starts the clock
.I may be WAY wrong, but I wonder if there aren't 2 different systems which ultimately perform the EXACT same function, just using different computer logic (one requires broken beam to for staged and rolling out to activate, one requires all beams intact and breaking a 3rd beam to activate?

Re: Just got back from my first night at the dragstrip...input
Originally Posted by AL SS590 M6
Don't know about that but I looked again yesterday at Stanton and there's only 2 beams.
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