Will a girdle help preserve the rear?

Also, should I throw some new lube in the rear? My car has 127k.

 

def!! go with royal purple....they are one of the best fluids... expecially motor oil

 

the pinion gear is what usually breaks on the 10 bolts.

 

I used Royal Purple in my Formula, and the posi slipped a little. I dumped it out and put in regular gear lube with the GM additive and it works much better now.

I do have a clutch type posi, and I believe the Royal Purple was just to slick. I love the stuff too, but just didnt work out for me. Some others on the board have had the same issues. Even though it has a LSD additive already added to it, it was to slick for my clutch type LSD.

Just some food for thought. Also I installed a stud girdle last night and it was a nightmare. You will need to make sure to remove your sway bay as it doesnt just slide into place like the stock cover. I had a hell of a time getting it on, and then it still leaked. So I am going to pull the bars off to make room, and use my usual Silicone rather then my friends Forma-Gasket crap. I hope that will fix me right up. Other then that it felt good, not a big difference in feeling, but I could tell it was there during hard launches.

Thought it was the carrier bearings that had gone bad in cases. FYI John from Fuddle racing is in Utah, and is about to push his car into the 9's he still uses a 10 bolt. Just some food for thought. A lot of people try and save money doing a gear swap themselves but dont have the right tools, experiance etc. A properly worked rear end should last you (maybe not into the 9s) but at least into the 12s. I am sure there are many who will disagree, but from my opinion I think its true.

 

When you pull the cover off, make sure you clean the mating sufaces really well. And after you put the cover back on with the silicone let it cure for at least24 hrs. before you put the fluid back in.

 

I cleaned it very well, but used some of my friends Forma-Gasket, and I have to say it sucks! Ill use my Silicone the 2nd time around. I guess I should let it cure 24 hours before adjusting the "girdle studs" against the mains too...they would be very counter productive to the cure process.

 

No because the girdle studs are only to be finger tight and finger tight will not affect sealing of the cover.

 

I concur with your statement.

 

heh oh..well maybe they are a bit to tight then....

 

If you want to drive on the tires all the time I would suggest going with nittos. They lasted 15k miles when I was driving them pretty much daily. I have an M6 and with the nittos so far my best 60ft is 1.89. I hold it at about 3700RPMs and slip the clutch out some. Not a full dump. I figure I would rather abuse the clutch some than break the rear.

 

16" or 17" tires?

edit: Has anyone gotten sub 2.0 60' on 275/40/17 NT555Rs?

 

I have the 245/50/16 Nitto DRs. It took me a lot of practice to get my 60ft down though. For the longest time it was in the 2.0-2.1 range cuz it kept bogging, Finally learned how to launch it.

 

If that's the drag radial yes and very easily. If that's the road race tire yes you can still get sub 2.0s. I was getting 2.0-2.1s on the F1s on my wifes' SS.

 

I'm planning to get a Moser 12-bolt w/ 4.30 gears (after I get my taxes paid this year). So, I will be using my 10-bolt for a few races this year, maybe to the end of March.

I have an A4 and the 10-bolt was rebuilt last year with new bearings, R&P and Auburn Posi unit. I also added the ARP stud kit and TA support cover. I'm also using large 28" x 10" Goodyear slicks this year, so I hope it holds together until I get the Moser. Then I could sell the 10-bolt and recover a few bucks.

WD

 

These are the ones I'm looking at...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/275-4...QQcmdZViewItem