Drag Racing Technique Improve your track times

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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 10:59 AM
  #16  
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i plan on ET Street radials for the track and Nitto 555R's for the street.... but thats just me
Old Feb 9, 2007 | 01:06 PM
  #17  
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The bottom line is the stickier the tire the less mileage you will get. I would just swap rims at the track. No sense wasting expensive tires by driving them on the street.
Old Feb 9, 2007 | 01:47 PM
  #18  
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I don't know if anyone has suggested this but you really do need to consider a 12 bolt or 9" if you don't already have one. With a sticky tire, the stock rear doesn't stand a chance. That said, I think an et street or similar tire would work better on an m6. The softer sidewall will be more forgiving and produce less wheelhop. Kumhos worked pretty good on my SS but that was with the stock clutch. I was able to pull off some pretty consistent 1.8 60' times with them. The nitto drag radials worked well also, but with the Mcleod clutch the rear didn't stand a chance with them.

Last edited by big dave; Feb 9, 2007 at 01:49 PM.
Old Feb 9, 2007 | 05:15 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by big dave
I don't know if anyone has suggested this but you really do need to consider a 12 bolt or 9" if you don't already have one. With a sticky tire, the stock rear doesn't stand a chance. That said, I think an et street or similar tire would work better on an m6. The softer sidewall will be more forgiving and produce less wheelhop. Kumhos worked pretty good on my SS but that was with the stock clutch. I was able to pull off some pretty consistent 1.8 60' times with them. The nitto drag radials worked well also, but with the Mcleod clutch the rear didn't stand a chance with them.
depends on how much power ur putting out and how much strain on your valvetrain.... since i only have mild bolt on's i believe the stock 10 bolt will be just fine with some et street radials..... i mean come on they rn't like slicks or nething!
Old Feb 10, 2007 | 09:36 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by CamaroRacing12
depends on how much power ur putting out and how much strain on your valvetrain.... since i only have mild bolt on's i believe the stock 10 bolt will be just fine with some et street radials..... i mean come on they rn't like slicks or nething!
My SS only has boltons also but managed to break 3 stock rears. But, like I said, aftermarket clutches, sticky tires, and wheel hop are the biggest problems for stock rears.
If you still have your stock clutch you'll probably be fine.

I was responding to the original post and it appears he has a 6 speed. Your car should be fine since it's an a4. My stock rear lasted til I was running 12.0s and pulling low 1.6 60' times.

Last edited by big dave; Feb 10, 2007 at 09:44 AM.
Old Feb 10, 2007 | 12:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by big dave
My SS only has boltons also but managed to break 3 stock rears. But, like I said, aftermarket clutches, sticky tires, and wheel hop are the biggest problems for stock rears.
If you still have your stock clutch you'll probably be fine.

I was responding to the original post and it appears he has a 6 speed. Your car should be fine since it's an a4. My stock rear lasted til I was running 12.0s and pulling low 1.6 60' times.
ooo yea i forgot his was an M6.... big difference when it comes to rear end life with a M6 and an A4...
Old Feb 10, 2007 | 04:35 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by big dave
My SS only has boltons also but managed to break 3 stock rears. But, like I said, aftermarket clutches, sticky tires, and wheel hop are the biggest problems for stock rears.
If you still have your stock clutch you'll probably be fine.

I was responding to the original post and it appears he has a 6 speed. Your car should be fine since it's an a4. My stock rear lasted til I was running 12.0s and pulling low 1.6 60' times.
Good point, wheelhop is definitely an overlooked deal breaker for stock rearends. That is where some suspension upgrades would be of some benefit.
Old Feb 10, 2007 | 05:10 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 2000GTP
Good point, wheelhop is definitely an overlooked deal breaker for stock rearends. That is where some suspension upgrades would be of some benefit.
yes, very good point
Old Feb 10, 2007 | 08:05 PM
  #24  
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I blew up a 3.73 geared 10 bolt with bolt ons and a TH400 and Nitto drag radials.
An automatic is easier on them but can still take out 10 bolt rear.
Old Feb 11, 2007 | 09:49 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by revtime
I blew up a 3.73 geared 10 bolt with bolt ons and a TH400 and Nitto drag radials.
An automatic is easier on them but can still take out 10 bolt rear.
You may have gotten wheelhop when you broke yours. With a manual, not only do you have to worry about that, but also the initial shock the rear takes when dumping the clutch. I honestly think the nittos and bfgs are more prone to wheelhop than a tire like an et street.

Last edited by big dave; Feb 11, 2007 at 09:56 AM.
Old Feb 11, 2007 | 10:38 AM
  #26  
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Before I smartened up and got a 12 bolt, I rebuilt the stock rear twice and just as I approached 400 passes on the second rebuild I bought a 12 bolt.

When I reviewed my history, I found that roughly 400-450 passes on the stock rear, 1.6-1.7 sixty foot times, M6 back then, was what it would basically hold.

I didn't do high rpm dumps either, typically 1500-2000 rpm launch on the rev upswing, quick release clutch launch, timed to coincide with a .5-.54 bulb.
Old Feb 11, 2007 | 10:54 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by tnthub
Before I smartened up and got a 12 bolt, I rebuilt the stock rear twice and just as I approached 400 passes on the second rebuild I bought a 12 bolt.

When I reviewed my history, I found that roughly 400-450 passes on the stock rear, 1.6-1.7 sixty foot times, M6 back then, was what it would basically hold.

I didn't do high rpm dumps either, typically 1500-2000 rpm launch on the rev upswing, quick release clutch launch, timed to coincide with a .5-.54 bulb.
What kind of clutch were you using? My switch to the Mcleod shortened the life of my rear from the first time it barked 4th gear. I believe the stock clutch was much easier to modulate at launch. The aftermarket clutch is like a light switch with very little room for clutch slippage.
Old Feb 11, 2007 | 10:55 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tnthub
Before I smartened up and got a 12 bolt, I rebuilt the stock rear twice and just as I approached 400 passes on the second rebuild I bought a 12 bolt.

When I reviewed my history, I found that roughly 400-450 passes on the stock rear, 1.6-1.7 sixty foot times, M6 back then, was what it would basically hold.

I didn't do high rpm dumps either, typically 1500-2000 rpm launch on the rev upswing, quick release clutch launch, timed to coincide with a .5-.54 bulb.
thats good info right there.... thx ted
Old Feb 11, 2007 | 02:03 PM
  #29  
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I went through a bunch of clutches. Basically I was working with centerforce at the time. Back then they has some issues. Between three different "clutch experts" I went through seven different installs, including new hydraulics and throwout bearings... It was a disaster which hastened my move to an automatic.
Old Feb 11, 2007 | 02:25 PM
  #30  
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I went through a similar experience with Mcleod. Clutch pedal all over the place, pressure problems, adjustable master cylinder problems. I am sorry I ever upgraded, I should've just stuck with either the stock unit or maybe even a z06 clutch. The SS was tons of fun with the stock clutch but really became a pita after changing it.



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