I feel like an idiot for asking...but I want to know. Like I have a 2800 that's going in with the new motor. I would ASSUME that you would just bring it to about 3000 on a power brake and then side step brake & floor the gas! That's what I always did with my other cars with a convertr, but I don't know if that's the most effective way of doing it! LOL Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike

 

You will have to experiment and see what works best.

Rich

 

Assuming you're using drag radials or slicks, then yes, something along those lines is going to work best. Experiment with the RPM levels and try flashing it right before you release the brake pedal. Also, consider installing a line lock kit -- it makes the pedal work a lot easier, and will save you some money on rear brake pads too.

Every car is going to be a little different, of course, but it would be nice if people with stalled autos posted what has worked for them, just to give Mike some ideas.

 

After heating up the tires stage the car then put left foot on brake hard and put the other on the gas. Now bring the revs up to about 1200 just enough to bring it up against the converter. Wait till you see the third yellow and swap feet.
This worked for me with a TCI 2800 stall. 1.8 sixty foots on Nitto DRs.

 

You'll never know the true stall of the converter behind your engine without a transbrake. The amount of stall depends on how much torque is put into the converter. That 2800 stall converter may stall at 2500 in one car and 3000 in another.

As mentioned above, you'll probably be better off flashing the converter. This will soften the hit on the tires. Flashing the converter means launching at a much lower rpm and when you launch, there a brief instant when the car starts to move and the engine spools up quickly to the stall speed. You're not launching at the peak power point but it also allows the car to start moving before all the torque is transmitted to the wheels.

After trying that, start to see just how high you can launch at. Pump the brakes a couple of times to increase line pressure to hold the car. You only need a line lock for the water box. Holding the brakes, come up on the throttle to about 1500 - 1800 rpm. If the wheels start to break loose, you'll have to launch at a lower rpm. You'll have to experiment to see what launch rpm works best. You'll never reach the full stall speed because you'll always overpower the vehicles brakes before reaching that point. You don't want to be up on the converter for any length of time. This will build a lot of heat in the tranny oil. About 10 seconds at a time during testing then allow the tranny oil to cool down for a minute or two before testing again.

Installing any aftermarket converter with a higher stall speed means it slips more at low rpms. This slipping creates heat. Install an aftermarket tranny cooler to keep this heat down.

Technically you want a launch rpm roughly at your engine's peak torque since that's where it's doing the most work to get you off the line. As a comparison, my converter stalls around 5700 on the transbrake but I only launch at 4500.

 

Vig 3600 with 255 50 R16 M/T Radials here...I do a good burnout, stage the car, hold the car with the brakes just so I don't roll thru the lights, I don't bring up the rpms at all, when the third yellow starts to light I floor it from off idle as fast as I can. I used to bring the rpms up, but it would just spin, and was way inconsistent. Now I let the converter do the work and bam! consistent 1.55s! There's better 60's posible with my set up, but I think I've found a good street/strip combo with not a whole lot of compromises...

--Alan

 

Friend of mine has a converter that's just the opposite. He can stall it up to around 2200 or so and it will hook. If he flashes it, it blows the tires off.