I want to know if i should spend money on a stall converter.
How much time would i drop in the 1\4 mile.

Here's my setup.
1967 Camaro ss
355 w\ 2.02 heads, minor headwork done.
mild cam, weiand intake, holley 600 carb with bigger jets. headers and 8.85:1 compression. TH-350 with a stock stall, in the backend i got a 10-bolt w/ eaton posi and 3.73's. and 275\60\15's putting the power to the ground.

I get virtually no wheelspin and i launch really hard. i stall it up to about 1050 right b4 the wheels break loose. i also have a line lock.

im running roughly 13.6 or 13.7 @97-101 mph. according to gtech pro.

if i did get a stall converter id want around a 2600-3000 stall because i only drive my car 1 day a week. due to my 7 mpg. :P

Let me know what u think and\or what kind of converter i should get?

 

A lot of people make good converter's for the TH350. I haven't messed with them for years, so I really couldn't make a recommendation as to which mfg. to go with.

With ~3000 stall (actual stall depends on a lot of things) and a set of drag radials I would expect at least .2-.3 quicker times - maybe more.

You didn't mention what your current 60' times are. A higher stall will be the most help in your 60' times, which is why you'll need some sticky tires. But a well designed converter will help a little on the top end too.

 

I'd go with a B&M around a 3000. You won't be sorry. I have a 95Z with 2.73's and I ran 14.30's After putting in a 3200 I started running 13.80's
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my 60 foot times are currently 2.00

im confused as to how a stall converter works, so with a 3000 stall for example, when i go up to the line and hit the line lock and get on the gas, will i be able to rev to 3000 before my car wants to go? ive heard many different stories. so im just tryin to figure it out.

also what would it be like accelerating away from a red light just normal. would it totally kill my gas mileage, would i have to rev alot to go no where?

 

A torque converter multiplies torque. I'm not an expert on them, but basically the more efficient that the design is, the less torque you will loose through parasitic losses.

The higher the stall the more it will slip before the car starts moving - to a point. Also, a higher stall allows the engine to free-rev higher into the power band when you go to WOT, hence allowing more power to be transmitted to the drive train at the moment you leave the starting line (full throttle immediately). If you have too high of a stall for a given engine combo it can hurt you more than help sometimes.

Most performance converters work best if you "flash" them. In other words, stage the car at idle or slightly above and when you leave the line floor it as fast as possible. The more power that is available because of the higher stall "hits" the converter harder giving you a better launch, which is why you usually need sticker tires with a higher stall.

As for driving on the street, a 3000 stall will hurt your mileage compared to a tight stock converter. How much depends on a lot of factors. My 2800 stall isn't that bad during "normal" driving. You can definately notice more slipage, but not to the point where it's a PITA.

 

W/ the right stall you'll se atleast 2-3 tenths

 

With a good stall convertor you could see up to .5 second. I'm running a 4200 stall in my daily driver and cut 1.5 60's. A 3500 stall with a 2.5 str is a good street/ strip convertor. Check with our sponsors for their suggestions. TCI and Midwest are both putting out good convertors at reasonable prices.