Lookin at the spohn adj. torque arm i'm using the stock one now, i was just wondering if someone had ran there car before and after to see the diff. I am wondering if it'll help mine out the best 60ft. now w/stock arm 1.48NA 1.38N2O thats the very best usually around 1.50-1.55NA 1.40-1.44 N2O thanks any help is appreciated.

 

I have the adjustable Spohn with the floor board mount (highly recommend the floor mount over the tail housing). Also, have 3.73s and ET Streets (26" x 11.5).

With the stock torque arm my best 60ft was 1.83. With Spohn I dropped to 1.67s, which improved my 1/4 ETs from 12.40s to 12.20s (almost 2 tenths). Althought, you probably won't see any MPH improvement at the line, that comes from more HP under the hood.

Bottom line, the Spohn adjustable w/ floor mount is worth every cent you pay for it!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2189634

 

Thanks man when you say floor board mount do you mean the mount on the cross member(seperate from the tailshaft)? I have seen some that follow the contour of the floor board but i didnt think spohn made on of those. I appreciate your help. Oh yea did the adj. arm make it pull the front tires harder or go foward rather than up?

 

I run the Spohn also and have for a few years. Best of 1.60 60 ft. It dead hooks every time on 28X11.5 ET streets and a 4000 stall. Not as much power as you have but it's a good idea for the simple fact that it takes the strain OFF of the back of the trans. This design by Spohn and BMR are used WELL into the single digits.

 

What if I am dead hooking now? 1.677 60 ft Will I see improvements?

 

Yes, the Spohn floor pan mounts in-place-of the "small" cross-member bracket (can't remember the correct name now), but "not" the rear transmission mount cross-member. Go to the Spohn web site and check it out....

I also have QA-1 90/10 coil-overs on the front. So, the combination of the torque arm and front drag shocks really makes the front lift. That frond end lift then becomes weight transfer. Check out the pictures of my car launching on the cardomain site below and note the gap between the front tires and fender.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2189634

 

The answer is a big no. I cut 1.52's with the stock arm and only replaced it out of fear of bending it with the new motor. When you get to the 1.50 or better range, I would probably go with an aftermarket one floor mounted just for insurance. You may even slow down because the aftermarket arm is heavier.

 

An aftermarket torque arm will help a little bit, but the real benefit is it's strength. I'm suprised you're clicking off those times on a stock TA. I smoked my stock TA where it meets at the rear, bent the rear end down, snapped the caps that hold my driveshaft in, etc... And I'm not making near the power you are.




The date on the camera is off, this was last october..

 

If a car is dead hooking no suspension mod will reduce the ET unless it's lighter than stock which is almost never the case. The idea of suspension mods is to get the car to dead hook.

 

With the adjustable torque arm you can pre-load the rear end, which removes the slack in the stock arm and rubber bushing. This pre-loading really improves the launch and 60 ft times.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2189634

 

But if you are dead hooking already it won't/can't help anything. There is no "better than dead hooking". If you're spinning then it can help you not to spin ie dead hook.

 

I was all over the place with my 60's...very inconsistent...Last year I switched to the Spohn tunnel brace mounted TA and went consistent 1.55s on 255 50 R16 M/T radials...Off idle launch and it would dead hook every time...pinion at -2.5 deg...

--Alan