i would get on another dyno. There is no way your car is 350/380 to the wheels without heads and a cam. You dont even have 1.6rr's.
As for your car, the et's and traps are fine. They reflect one another, but the fact that you have full exhaust is not shown in the trap which it should be. As mentioned you should be trapping 105,106. Even with a 14.2 et, the trap should still be there which leads me to believe you need to figure out whats holding you back.
If you really had 350rwhp you should be in the mid 12's trapping 112-114. The flywheel accounts for having alot of hp on the dyno but poor times but there is alot left.
Last your driving skills need lots of practice, like 50 more passes before you figure out what your really doing. It took me forever to break into the sub 2.0 60ft area and im guessing its going to take you some time too. Be patient, drag racing is like golf. Their is a lot of technique to it and its very easy to get frustrated. good luck

 

I see you are in Daytona, have you ever heard of Redline Performance in Port Orange? They have a dyno, and Dennis usues the sniper software for certain vehicles like your LT1. He's built quite a few fast LT/LS GM cars/trucks. I would give him a call, I am 130% sure he could help you out. He is a good friend, and has been nothing but helpful to me and anyone I send him.

 

Yeah I have met and talked to "Heavy D" at redline before, just about some stuff with my brothers corvette, seems like a cool guy. I was at his shop (by the way, I actually live in Port Orange ) and didn't see a dyno anywhere but maybe I wasn't looking hard enough, I'll take it to him when I'm back in florida and see what he has to say. I could really use some expert advice and I have seen some of the stuff hes done/worked on and im pretty impressed. Anyways, thanks for all the help and take care.

 

NP man, best of luck with the car. I reccomend D because I've seen him sort out so many cars for other people that were done by "Pro Shops". The shortblock in my 2000 was a "pro built" engine, and lasted 200 miles. When they wouldn't do anything for me, Dennis stepped in and rebuilt the motor. It's less cubes, and a smaller cam now - but makes more power. Imagine that. Needless to say I am very pleased with his work.

 

i run low 13's with mods in sig.... i've never been on a dyno but my guess is im around 300rwhp

 

I wouldn't mess around "racing dyno's" unless you've made a drastic mod. make sure the car isn't kicking out error codes, make sure the timing is right. Get a set of drag race wheels and tires and "practice, practice, practice" _ and not show-off parade laps with your girl or friends and get a log book and write EVERYTHING down.

Realistically your making 275 to 280hp max with your mods

 

well if it helps when i launch i hold one foot on the clutch and one foot on the gas and brake and slipping the clutch at like 4500 rpm or so and thats how i got my best time and launch and didnt spin a bit suspension helps alot....

 

As a example if you have 6-8 degrees kr your losing anywhere from 12-16 h.p(really affects trap speed) and i would try to chk.the cond.of your opti as mine has been going downhill for the last 2-3 yrs and finally died last fall!This would explain my poor 60ft,s,and not getting the most out of my recent mods.

 

ET is about shifting and efficiency.

The lightweight flywheel does not help.

Basically at 102 you should in theory, get it into the 13.3.13.5 range, depending on a great many variables.

I was running consistent 13.5-13.6 at 100-101 in my m6 with drag radials, shortie headers, cold air, and a short throw shifter, in decent air with decent traction.

Taller sidewalls and lightweight rims will help. A heavier flywheel will help. However your performance ultimately has a lot to do with driving from shallow staging to your launch technique, through the shift points and your powershifting skills.

practice helps a lot but any reduction in rotating mass (aluminum driveshaft, lightweight wheels and tires will help the car become more efficient.

Your sixty foot times are high which is probably from a combination of a lack of traction, heavy wheels/tires, and lightwight flywheel. A lower sixty foot time will carry through the entire run. A one tenth drop in sixty foot time can result in 1 1/2-2 times that amount drop in ET at the other end, again depending on many variables.

 

315 wide tires sound a little too large for the power wich is proly around (280rwhp). Maybe that's another factor what's holding the car. Extra weight on the wheels add alot of drag. Some drag slicks with light rims should make things alot better.
Maybe creating a new thread with what wheels to choose maybe good idea.

Just my opinion not tested on track.

 

the mph says the power is there. with a properly hooking car the optimum time for a 102mph run should be low 13's i would say 13.2's it sounds like you have some suspension tuning to do. the 14 second pass is what i would say it should run on street tires. i run 12.93-12.97 at 103 to 104 mph. my chassis is right on the money with no slip at all.
with the street tires i run 13.8's at 98-100mph. sounds like you need more tuning.
my first 79z28 would run 14.30-14.50 at 117 mph. street tires