How to basline/optimize adjustable suspension?
How to basline/optimize adjustable suspension?
Now that my car has started breaking less, I've been able to make it to more track days. I've also been able to travel to tracks that I rarely raced at before. With this new freedom, I've run into the problem of different tracks on different days hooking completely different. I can leave one track Friday night and have my car hooking well, but bogging or spining at another track on Sunday.
Assuming all adjustable suspension, how does one dial in the suspension? Which way do you adjust the suspension and tire pressure to compensate for spining or bogging? Do you start in the middle then work a direction? How do you baseline? If you know one track is better than another (prep wise) how do you compensate? Any compensation for a transbrake?
Suspension setup for discussion sake:
QA1 adjustable shocks front and rear (0 Loose, 12 Firm)
Adjustable Panhard, LCA
LCA relocation brackets
Adjustable Chassis Tq Arm
ET Drags and Skinnies
Adjustable Drag Swaybar
Cage and/or subframe connectors
(I don't have all of these, just listed for discussion)
Assuming all adjustable suspension, how does one dial in the suspension? Which way do you adjust the suspension and tire pressure to compensate for spining or bogging? Do you start in the middle then work a direction? How do you baseline? If you know one track is better than another (prep wise) how do you compensate? Any compensation for a transbrake?
Suspension setup for discussion sake:
QA1 adjustable shocks front and rear (0 Loose, 12 Firm)
Adjustable Panhard, LCA
LCA relocation brackets
Adjustable Chassis Tq Arm
ET Drags and Skinnies
Adjustable Drag Swaybar
Cage and/or subframe connectors
(I don't have all of these, just listed for discussion)
Generally speaking the better the race track the firmer you can set the rear shocks. With the front shock setting will allow the front end to transfer the weight back quickly but not so quick to upset the rear by the front end porposing (diving up and down).
The rear shocks start at halfway and work up or down, front suspension start at the bottom (loosest) and work to the top. Small steps and perferably one at a time.
Tire pressure, keep them as high as possible and still maintaining traction.
Video tape everything and write everything down.
The rear shocks start at halfway and work up or down, front suspension start at the bottom (loosest) and work to the top. Small steps and perferably one at a time.
Tire pressure, keep them as high as possible and still maintaining traction.
Video tape everything and write everything down.
Talk to everyone else at the track and see if its hooking or not. What lane is hooking better. And then adjust what you need to.
Just do alot of test and tune and see what works...then you will know whre to go if the tracks is slick or hot etc.
Just do alot of test and tune and see what works...then you will know whre to go if the tracks is slick or hot etc.
Thanks for all the tips so far.
What does everyone run for tire pressure in thier slicks at a good track? Lower for worse tracks?
My car seems to love 12psi in the slicks. Lower and it shakes, higher and it drops a 10th in the 60ft. (My tires are 28/10.5 ET Drag Stiff walls)
What does everyone run for tire pressure in thier slicks at a good track? Lower for worse tracks?
My car seems to love 12psi in the slicks. Lower and it shakes, higher and it drops a 10th in the 60ft. (My tires are 28/10.5 ET Drag Stiff walls)
Generally speaking the better the race track the firmer you can set the rear shocks. With the front shock setting will allow the front end to transfer the weight back quickly but not so quick to upset the rear by the front end porposing (diving up and down).
The rear shocks start at halfway and work up or down, front suspension start at the bottom (loosest) and work to the top. Small steps and perferably one at a time.
Tire pressure, keep them as high as possible and still maintaining traction.
Video tape everything and write everything down.
The rear shocks start at halfway and work up or down, front suspension start at the bottom (loosest) and work to the top. Small steps and perferably one at a time.
Tire pressure, keep them as high as possible and still maintaining traction.
Video tape everything and write everything down.
In working the front shocks up from 0, what am I looking for? Do I stop adjusting the front at a certian level and switch to the back or the other way around?
Thanks
Curious as well.
I've been leaving the fronts as soft as possible and only playing with the rear (firming up until I lose traction)
The front end doesn't porpose as far as I can tell but it does pull the wheels off the ground.
I've been leaving the fronts as soft as possible and only playing with the rear (firming up until I lose traction)
The front end doesn't porpose as far as I can tell but it does pull the wheels off the ground.
I have koni's so its a bit different but I run them all the way loose in the front and 3/4 hard in the back.
For the lca's i would run a negitive pinion angle, -2 or so. Everything else is just test and tune. Suspensions dont get dialed in 10 or 15 passes either, it may take 75. Be ready, have a friend video tape your launches too if you can. That will tell alot of the story, you want to zoom in like they do on espn when they break down how tall drag tires crinkle down on a launch.
Seeing what your car is doing will help you correct problems.
For the lca's i would run a negitive pinion angle, -2 or so. Everything else is just test and tune. Suspensions dont get dialed in 10 or 15 passes either, it may take 75. Be ready, have a friend video tape your launches too if you can. That will tell alot of the story, you want to zoom in like they do on espn when they break down how tall drag tires crinkle down on a launch.
Seeing what your car is doing will help you correct problems.
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