rLyTa1n

So anyways, all my mods and power are listed in my sig. My problem is that I took my car to the track after getting a new clutch installed (I did break it in) and getting a dyno-tune along with pretty much everything else in my sig and I was really impressed with the numbers I was getting on the dyno and couldn't wait to take it out on the strip. But when I did I wasn't impressed with what the car was pulling off. With just a cat-back I ran a 14.03 at like 100. Now with all the mods in my sig I ran this my first time out...

60'...2.111
330'...5.902
1/8...9.021
MPH...79.81
1000'...11.660
1/4...13.877
MPH...102.06

See, thats not that much of an improvment over what I ran stock, especially for the power i'm making, but the real problem is that I cant run that consistently. The rest of my times are all in the 14.2-14.3 area. How the hell could I run CONSISTENTLY slower than stock with mods like a full exhaust and a dyno tune and drag radials??

One thing I am thinking is that my 60 foot times suck real bad and that might be caused by a really light flywheel bogging my car down on the launch. Does anybody have an suggestions as far as like suspension parts or drag techniques to lower my E.T to what a car with 350hp and 380 TQ should do? Any help would be awesomely appreciated! Take care!

AutoRoc

Those power numbers look extremely optimistic for basic bolt on mods and a tune. If it went 100 stock, I'd be looking for around 105'ish with the mods listed. Roughly a 45-50hp gain. I've only seen about 25-30 LT1 cars on dyno, many with similar mods, and 285-290 at the tire is what I'd bet if the tune is good. Stock is usually 245-250rwhp roughly on a mustang dyno, right? From what I can recall anyways. Slightly less power than an auto LS1 car. Those normally trap 104-105, roughly. Give it another shot with better weather next time. Make sure you heat those nittos up really well. Spin them and count to 5 when you start to see smoke. They should be fairly consistant. 1.9's or better should be easy once you get the launch figure out. Goodluck!

3DFORMULA

Yes those hp numbers seem quite high for the mods. And your times do seem low for the mods. You do need to heat up them tires good for launching. Slicks are some real good help with launching the m6 consistently. Most needed for good hook is some rear suspension components(torque-arm and lower control arms) and remove the front swaybar to help transfer the weight.

Injuneer

Let's take the signature, and peel away the things that don't make any power:

Things that aren't adding any power (weight reduction at best):
-!AIR
-!EGR
-!AC
-!Skipshift
-Spec stage 4 clutch
-Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel (hurts the launch)
-Descreened MAF
-LT4 KM
-Polished AFS ZR1 wheels with 315 NITTO's.

Actually adds power:
-SLP CAI
-TB Coolant Bypass
-Pacesetter Ceramic LT's
-PS ORY
-SLP Loudmouth I
-Tuned by Sniper Tuning

I can't see enough to add up to 95HP gained at the flywheel. Something doesn't add up. With what you've listed, my calculator says you should be running 13.5 @ 105mph, at best.

And, its way off in the 1/8th mile, running the equivalent of a 14.03 @ 99.8 mph, then picks up a little bit on the top end.

slomarao

what were your 60fts on the 14.2's runs?
Your trap speed is okay for your mods and would increase with a better 60ft. The real issue your facing is breaking into the sub 2.0 60ft area. Second I would do a complete tune up (air filter, fuel filter, change all fluids, pcv valve, clean tb and maf, plugs and wires, o2s, and anything else you can think of) then we be better suited to figure out your issues because many possibilities will be out of the way.
Who knows, maybe its your opti or fuel pump. Above all get the car checked out. Even with your slow et the trap should be 105,106 and its not, indicating that there are issues.
Next would be buying some suspension parts. Start with sub frames and lca's then according to what your cars doing to the launch purchase fixes. your not making use of the power the cars producing, fix that and you ll see better times.

rLyTa1n

Yeah I had it dyno'ed pretty much stock and made around 280 rwhp. So I def shouldn't be making that much after the mods. But is there a way the dyno could be wrong? And I still havn't figured out why I would run slower than stock, I did change the wires and plugs and tranny fluid, switched to fully synthetic oil and everything. The car runs damn good and feels like a rocket on the street, but doesn't really show on the track.

One thing that I havnt mentioned yet was the car may have mods that I am unaware of. because I bought the car off of a couple in their forties and it was completely stock "looking" but they also had a 20'ish looking old son that may have done stuff to it before I bought it and tried to make it look as stock as possible, possibly because he didn't want to sell a "pre-modified" car. The tell tale signs were things like already cut bump-stops and a 160 degree stat already in the car. So the car could have been modified internally and such and then just sold to me as a "stock" car.

OH! One more big thing I almost forgot to mention was that when I got the car tuned, the PCM had already been programmed for modifications like the ones I have. The timing was waaay advanced for a stock car! So that also rubs me in the direction that the car wasn't stock its whole life.

The car has had all the codes related to the O2's deleted.

My 60 foot times on my other runs was a crappy 2.3-2.4, pretty bad.

I guess I should just buy some suspension parts and see if that helps, maybe buy some slicks as well for the track and throw the nitto's on for the street.

As far as the mods that don't add any power, I beg to differ on some of them, like the knock module, even tho it may only add a few horses, its still something, keeps timing from being pulled because of my extremely loud exhaust shaking things up a bit. And as far as the clutch goes, yea it doesnt add any power but it does help with the track because my old runs were on a basically **** clutch, that was slipping alot, and now I have a brand new clutch and can't run any better than stock, thats alot of my problem, is that I cant run better than stock even if we forget about the unusually high numbers im putting out, I should still do consistently faster than 14.2.

If anybody else has any suggestions or would like to comment on what I have said, you are obviously more than welcome thanks!

mdacton

Big wheels are killing you, alot of extra rotating wt.

You need a good tire, and probly some more practice driving.

IMO your really slow for having headers.....I was running low 13's with jus a cold air...

I would try to get some lighter wheels to run
Get a good tire
Check plugs, and any other tuneup items.
Possibly get a good driver, maybe have someone watch you or tape it and then go back and see how you leave and shift and take note of where you can improve in your driving

For the speed your gaining up top you should be able to get 105-108 pretty easy. Your 60' needs to be in the 1.90's at a minimum

CamaroRacing12

yea wat was ur raceweight?

ws6transam

As a Fidanza owner, I can honestly say that the aluminum flywheel is not the way to go for a drag car. You *need* the reciprocating mass to hold the angular momentum necessary to launch the car. I have the same issue, even with 380-some RWHP on a Mustang Dyno. When I dump the clutch, even from 5500 RPM, the car engine will instantly slow down to 2200 RPM or so, the slowly climb back out of the cellar and back onto the torque curve.

The flywheel is a neat piece in that it'll really beef up your flywheel horsepower on a dyno. It'll also make a lot of difference at a road race course. However the old-school drag racers all know that a little bit of mass at the flywheel is a good way to store power for the clutch dump.

About the only thing you (and I) can do is raise the RPM at launch, get the accelerator to the floor faster, and do it in such a way as to not lose traction or bog the engine. My datalogging shows that I consistently dump the clutch at 50% throttle and don't get to 100% until after the clutch is fully engaged with revs dropped into the 2000-RPM range. It's a tough situation that'll require a lot of practice to overcome. We've got to get to WOT before the clutch is fully engaged, but before it bounces into the rev limiter. Extra flywheel mass would slow the whole process down and make it easier to coordinate throttle with clutch engagement.

AL SS590 M6

Just a nit picky. A mod like a knock module never adds power. All it does is keep you from loosing power that is already there. You're already making the power and KR takes it away, the knock module stops this from happening.

Injuneer

Exactly... and unless you've put a scanner on it to see if it was pulling timing without the LT4KM, you have no basis to assume its somehow blocking noise from a loud exhaust. Its meant specifically to filter the noise from the Crane roller rockers that were used in the LT4's.... and attributing to it the capability to filter a loud exhaust is totally speculative.

And yes, a dyno can be skewed very easilly. Its a game some less than reputable engine shops play to show the huge gains they've promised their customers. For starters, what correction factor did they use?

CANTONRACER

What type of dyno?

86 IROC

What dyno did you go to? My LS1 car with full bolt ons did 329 at Next Level on their dyno jet. The night before that dyno I ran 12.20's @ 111-112 MPH... my 60's were mid 1.7's. My car 99% stock - with the FRA mod, SLP lid, and TBB did 294 to the wheels at corvette masters and trapped 105+ and ran 13.4 -13.5 with 60' times in the 2.0 - 2.1 range.

I'm thinking the dyno your car was on is overly generous. Not trying to **** in your wheaties or anything, just expressing that I feel the #'s you were given aren't very realistic given your recent track times.

For the mods you have, the MPH is a bit low. I would look to see if you are getting any false knock from the exhaust banging uder the car. And, make sure the car has steady fuel pressure under a hard load. Then move from there. I could be wrong, but I would think an M6 LT1 with your mods is capable of at least 104-105 MPH traps.

rLyTa1n

It was a mustang dyno. Sniper tuning in Sanford Florida. I'm thinking what I'm going to do is just go to my local dyno and have it re-dyno'ed on a different dyno and see whats going on. Just throw them the 60 bucks to make 2 or 3 pulls and see if I get radically different numbers or if they are the same or what. But I really need to see whats up with my track times regardless of the numbers I'm putting out. I really need some more advice on what could be wrong with my car seeing as how I should be putting out better track times with the mods I do have, because like I mentioned earlier, my trap times and E.T's are slightly slower than basically stock, or have hardly improved at all. There are guys here and there doing better times and trap speeds than me with just an intake and stock crap tires. Ohwell, back to the drawing board, more troubleshooting hehe, take care everybody! And thanks in advance for the replies.

ABA383

Mustang dyno numbers can be easily manipulated...An operator can very easily change the "weight" of the rollers via the computer software...If you increase the effective weight of the rollers the rwhp numbers will go up dramatically...I've seen it first hand with my car...we added over 75 rwhp with just a stroke of the keyboard...Sounds like you have a dyno operator with a "weight" problem...

For the record I make 375 rwhp on a calibrated Mustang dyno and have a few more mods than you do...I'd go back and have a few words with the dyno shop...This is another prime example of why dyno numbers are just numbers...

--Alan