Drag Wheel weights
Re: Drag Wheel weights
You might want to just try to get the info from Weld's tech line. I've had good results with them in the past.
When considering the weight of a Weld wheel like the Pro-Star, you have to include the fairly hefty "extra long shank mag-style" lug nuts and washers that they require, and compare it to the hardware required by some other wheel. You also need to include the weight of longer wheel studs, if they are required.
I know when Steve10 did a comparison of the Bogarts to the Pro-Stars, he weighed the hardware and studs along with the wheel, to come up with (if I recall correctly) a 1.5# per wheel weight savings.... 15x9.5" Bogart P1 Billet SS, vs. 15x10" Pro-Star.
When considering the weight of a Weld wheel like the Pro-Star, you have to include the fairly hefty "extra long shank mag-style" lug nuts and washers that they require, and compare it to the hardware required by some other wheel. You also need to include the weight of longer wheel studs, if they are required.
I know when Steve10 did a comparison of the Bogarts to the Pro-Stars, he weighed the hardware and studs along with the wheel, to come up with (if I recall correctly) a 1.5# per wheel weight savings.... 15x9.5" Bogart P1 Billet SS, vs. 15x10" Pro-Star.
Re: Drag Wheel weights
Originally Posted by Injuneer
You might want to just try to get the info from Weld's tech line. I've had good results with them in the past.
I've learned that for stuff like this, you'll often get contradictory information, because people look that stuff up in books when you ask.
Give me an actual owner with a bathroom scale, and I'll be much more confident about it.
Re: Drag Wheel weights
Originally Posted by Spinner
My draglites (not pro stars) weighed 7 pounds each in 15x4. 27 pounds with a 165r15 radial tire.
Re: Drag Wheel weights
Since i'm the one that initiated the Bogart/F-body program, continued design work and prototype work, I feel I'm qualified to give you weights of at least our Bogarts...and a little comparison.
Weights will vary with build as well as style. Depending on how we build them a front runner, for example goes from ~6.5 lbs to ~9 lbs.
When I refer to our weights, I'm referring to a DIRECT fit rim that does NOT need spacers etc. Everything is built into the rim so that it is a direct fit.
It is not a fair comparison to look at the weight of a rim, and not include a spacer if you have to use one as you should weigh whatever is needed to MOUNT that rim to the car. I could say our rim weighs 6.5 lbs though you'd need to add weight to the rims to make them fit...
Welds for the most part, need a 5/16 spacer, so add ~.5 lbs to the each rim depending on what material is used standard deviation may be +-.25. I'd be willing to bet, most whom weigh a weld for example is not including the spacers!
I'll address Al's comment regarding his front runner comparison. Comparing that weld being it was 2 lbs heavier per wheel...converting rotational weight to static weight (1-6 to 1-8 relationship {this will vary depending on the wheel manufacture you speak with}) your looking at a weight savings with Bogarts of 12-16 lbs of converted static weight off your front end!
The rears of a Bogart depending on wheel sizing, style as well as once again HOW we build it varies. Typical 10's will range from ~8-11 lbs. An LT1 P1 Bogart will weigh ~10 lbs, this IS a substantual savings from a weld once again. A weld prostar (with spacer) will weigh roughly 14.5 lbs. From a converted static weight point, your looking 48-64 lbs your SAVING with using a LT1 P1 Bogart rim over a weld prostar.
The Bogarts have a weight advantage proportionally to a weld prostar a 25% front 75% rear weight advantage. Some folks overlook this substantial weight savings to save a few dollars...then they ask "how can I remove more weight off the car...spending quite a bit more for weight reduction items to have less of a gain instead of just going with a Bogart. I'm not saying don't buy the other parts as by all means...the more weight you can loose the better...
Overall, the Bogart rim IS the lightest style LT1/LS1 rim in it's class. If you want to compare them to the lightest welds, we will still edge ahead being we build it to fit the style calipers/rotor combo theirs are made to fit.
Appearance and material used is a completely other topic...I won't get into that portion of it. If you want to see a variety of Bogarts on an F-body, we have an F-body Bogart gallery where you can view various types of F-bodies with a variety of rims. www.sjmmanufacturing.homestead.com
Fred,
I hope that I'm not crossing the line with this post. I certinly don't want to upset anyone or try to "*****" out our rims. I am trying to provide a detailed explaination for everyone. If you feel this is too much, feel free to delete the message. I've been a member on the board since the beginning (I know I was less then the 500th member to join at the time way back when...lol (post #'s got knocked waaay down from a glitch in the system btw) I certainly dont' want to step on toes or upset you or others in any way, shape or form.
Steve
Weights will vary with build as well as style. Depending on how we build them a front runner, for example goes from ~6.5 lbs to ~9 lbs.
When I refer to our weights, I'm referring to a DIRECT fit rim that does NOT need spacers etc. Everything is built into the rim so that it is a direct fit.
It is not a fair comparison to look at the weight of a rim, and not include a spacer if you have to use one as you should weigh whatever is needed to MOUNT that rim to the car. I could say our rim weighs 6.5 lbs though you'd need to add weight to the rims to make them fit...
Welds for the most part, need a 5/16 spacer, so add ~.5 lbs to the each rim depending on what material is used standard deviation may be +-.25. I'd be willing to bet, most whom weigh a weld for example is not including the spacers!
I'll address Al's comment regarding his front runner comparison. Comparing that weld being it was 2 lbs heavier per wheel...converting rotational weight to static weight (1-6 to 1-8 relationship {this will vary depending on the wheel manufacture you speak with}) your looking at a weight savings with Bogarts of 12-16 lbs of converted static weight off your front end!
The rears of a Bogart depending on wheel sizing, style as well as once again HOW we build it varies. Typical 10's will range from ~8-11 lbs. An LT1 P1 Bogart will weigh ~10 lbs, this IS a substantual savings from a weld once again. A weld prostar (with spacer) will weigh roughly 14.5 lbs. From a converted static weight point, your looking 48-64 lbs your SAVING with using a LT1 P1 Bogart rim over a weld prostar.
The Bogarts have a weight advantage proportionally to a weld prostar a 25% front 75% rear weight advantage. Some folks overlook this substantial weight savings to save a few dollars...then they ask "how can I remove more weight off the car...spending quite a bit more for weight reduction items to have less of a gain instead of just going with a Bogart. I'm not saying don't buy the other parts as by all means...the more weight you can loose the better...
Overall, the Bogart rim IS the lightest style LT1/LS1 rim in it's class. If you want to compare them to the lightest welds, we will still edge ahead being we build it to fit the style calipers/rotor combo theirs are made to fit.
Appearance and material used is a completely other topic...I won't get into that portion of it. If you want to see a variety of Bogarts on an F-body, we have an F-body Bogart gallery where you can view various types of F-bodies with a variety of rims. www.sjmmanufacturing.homestead.com
Fred,
I hope that I'm not crossing the line with this post. I certinly don't want to upset anyone or try to "*****" out our rims. I am trying to provide a detailed explaination for everyone. If you feel this is too much, feel free to delete the message. I've been a member on the board since the beginning (I know I was less then the 500th member to join at the time way back when...lol (post #'s got knocked waaay down from a glitch in the system btw) I certainly dont' want to step on toes or upset you or others in any way, shape or form.
Steve
Last edited by steve10; Sep 15, 2004 at 06:52 PM.
Re: Drag Wheel weights
One last quick comment. I see guys using requesting 15x8 rims. First before you choose a rim, CHOOSE the tire you want to run, then by the tire recomendations choose the rim that best fits.
Unless your restricted by the class your running (tire size etc), a 26x11.5 ET street or Hoosier qtp fits VERY easy with P1 F-body Bogart style rims, (no grinding no spacers, no massaging fender wells, rolling fender lips etc). If your going to run this tire, then you need a 10 inch rim NOT 8. If you want to run a 10.5 ET street, then choose the 8inch rim. If you want a 10.5 ET drag, choose a 10 inch rim, NOT 8.
Since traction is an issue always with our cars, the wider the contact patch, the better traction you'll have...there is arguments on both sides for tire weight etc though I won't get into that one...lol
I suggest at least a 26x11.5 tire for our cars...larger diameter if you have tallar gears, you need a 10 inch rim for this combo.
Steve
Unless your restricted by the class your running (tire size etc), a 26x11.5 ET street or Hoosier qtp fits VERY easy with P1 F-body Bogart style rims, (no grinding no spacers, no massaging fender wells, rolling fender lips etc). If your going to run this tire, then you need a 10 inch rim NOT 8. If you want to run a 10.5 ET street, then choose the 8inch rim. If you want a 10.5 ET drag, choose a 10 inch rim, NOT 8.
Since traction is an issue always with our cars, the wider the contact patch, the better traction you'll have...there is arguments on both sides for tire weight etc though I won't get into that one...lol
I suggest at least a 26x11.5 tire for our cars...larger diameter if you have tallar gears, you need a 10 inch rim for this combo.
Steve
Re: Drag Wheel weights
Originally Posted by steve10
Fred,
I hope that I'm not crossing the line with this post. I certinly don't want to upset anyone or try to "*****" out our rims. I am trying to provide a detailed explaination for everyone. If you feel this is too much, feel free to delete the message. I've been a member on the board since the beginning (I know I was less then the 500th member to join at the time way back when...lol (post #'s got knocked waaay down from a glitch in the system btw) I certainly dont' want to step on toes or upset you or others in any way, shape or form.
Steve
I hope that I'm not crossing the line with this post. I certinly don't want to upset anyone or try to "*****" out our rims. I am trying to provide a detailed explaination for everyone. If you feel this is too much, feel free to delete the message. I've been a member on the board since the beginning (I know I was less then the 500th member to join at the time way back when...lol (post #'s got knocked waaay down from a glitch in the system btw) I certainly dont' want to step on toes or upset you or others in any way, shape or form.
Steve
I'm not at war with you... don't get defensive because I disagreed with one of your tech posts.
Please take the time to read my above post very carefully. I mentioned YOU, I mentioned BOGART, and I mentioned the work YOU had done to identify the differences in the weight, including a consideration of the HARDWARE.
Don't take me wrong. If I don't agree with you on a technical question, I will tell you so - as I did elsewhere - and I will give you credit where due. I'm just calling them the way I see them.
Fred
Re: Drag Wheel weights
Fred,
awwww
I wasn't being defensive...I know your not at war with me
.
I didn't want you or others to think I was trying to push our rims as the main content of the post...same thing with the EGR...I wasn't trying to push our products by fabricating results etc.
Maybe I could have used different words as by reading it, it may seem like I was being defensive though I wasn't. I was merely putting a disclaimer on it so that no one was thinking my post was made to boost sales.
Steve
awwww
I wasn't being defensive...I know your not at war with me
.I didn't want you or others to think I was trying to push our rims as the main content of the post...same thing with the EGR...I wasn't trying to push our products by fabricating results etc.
Maybe I could have used different words as by reading it, it may seem like I was being defensive though I wasn't. I was merely putting a disclaimer on it so that no one was thinking my post was made to boost sales.
Steve
Re: Drag Wheel weights
I didn't use a spacer on my Prostar skinnies. I ground the poopoo out of my calipers though. I should have weighed all the aluminum dust/shavings that I took off...
.
j/k
Ryan
.j/k
Ryan
Re: Drag Wheel weights
Did you also have an interference between the Pro-Star and the spring clips that hold the pads in the caliper? That was a second place mine would rub without the spacer. A friend of mine had a similar problem, didn';t realize it and ripped the spring clips right off the pads when the wheel hit them.
I would love to get rid of the spacer. Maybe there are some aftermarket pads with a skinnier spring clip??? I still have my original stock pads in the front.
I would love to get rid of the spacer. Maybe there are some aftermarket pads with a skinnier spring clip??? I still have my original stock pads in the front.
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