i know there is always the cahnce of me breaking something on the launch with drag radials but if i launch from a somewhat low RPM will i have a good chance of breaking the rear or anything also how long should i heat them up and what rpm should i launch from.

 

Don't know if this will help but I have the NT555Rs on the back of my car. I've dropped the clutch at 3500 with no problems about 15 times so far. However, I think a big part of that is because I have the stock clutch and it's not exactly snapping if you know what I mean. Still better then my old tires though.

 

I just got a pair of dr's too and am wondering the same thing.

 

how long are your burnouts and are you going through the wet box or not

 

I have broke 2 times with drag radials and won't put them on again for track use until I have enough for a 12 bolt. First time I destroyed the spyder gears in the posi, the 2nd time I screwed up the splines on the axles and snapped the carbon fiber clutch paks in my Eaton as well as ate a few spyder gears. The ring and pinion have always made it out alive and in good condition though (atleast for me). The first time was with a 3.42 and the 2nd was with a 4.10 gear. The first time I broke was from about 3k rpm and the 2nd time was about 2500 rpm or less. Do yourself a favor and stay on street tires, dead hooking + M6 = breaking. Although the stock diff did manage to make probably 70 passes on drag radials...The Eaton was abruptly destroyed in an odd fashion with hardly any passes on it, I think the axle started it all...

 

As implied in the post above, it's only a matter of time before something in the 10-bolt goes if you put sticky tires on the car. Especially on a sticky surface such as the drag strip. If you aren't prepared to fix the rear end, stick with street tires.

As far as using drag radials at the strip goes, here's the technique. Do not drive through the water. Go around and then pull onto (or back up into) the moist part of the track. When you get the signal from the starter, just pop the clutch to spin the tires a few times and clean them off. The rubber used for DR's is not designed to be heated up much above typical track temp, you are really just trying to clean them. On a colder day, especially the first pass and if you have been sitting for a while since driving to the track, maybe a little "mini-burnout" is in order on the first run to put a little heat in them. Otherwise, just a quick spin (like street tires).

Rich

 

With a 6-speed you are playing with a time bomb but you can use drag radials if you leave w/o dumping the clutch. My car leaves with a best of 1.49 60's on the stock raerend and 3.42's. I never broke the rear but with the car running low 10's@134mph I was getting scared that if the rear broke or lock up the top end it could cause a crash. So I swapped in a Ford 8.8". The best I went was 10.20@134mph with the stock 10bolt in my T/A. I always left at about 1,500-2,500 rpms and the n2o would come on about 10-15' out. Later Clint