Ok so i just bought a 95 firehawk with 275 nittos on the back. The tires grip so well with the billstien suspension that i can BARELY spin the tires at all in first (and thats only if i gun it from a steady 30 mph in 1st). The car wont even break them lose in 2nd at all. It pulled 348 to the wheels with stock heads and a cc306 on the stock tune and shorties. Im planning on putting on LT's and true dual to get back some of the low end TQ lost with the cam.

With this said, how is the best route to keep the 10 bolt alive. I do not have the cash to drop in a 12 bolt and it still has the stock SLP clutch that came with the hawks. What rpm should i launch it at and save the 10 bolt. It has a new solid panhard rod, billstien suspension, LCA's, LCA brackets, torque arm, and SLP subframe connectors.

Like i said, the car definately hooks up with the nittos and suspension and im thinking with the tune, LT's, and true duals; it should be somewhere around 360-380 at the ground, with a TQ curve as flat as the kitchen table (right now its flat as hell from 2.5-6k).

Is my 10 bolt good as dead?

Sorry for the long post,
-Stu

 

Don't even try to "dump" the clutch. Ease off of whatever RPM you can get away without burning the clutch. Your clutch is not going to like you feathering it out of the hole.

Bottom line: You aren't going to ET that well. Suck it up, be satisfied with a 1.9 60' and wait until you get a 12bolt.

Good luck.
Ryan

 

If i get it tuned up to about 375 and 360 tq, what kinda traps should i be running?

The thing spins up to 6500 rpm and loves it. Im gonna drop in comp-r lifters and 1.6 rockers to pull a little more power out of her and keep the lifters happy.

The spring pressure is about 370 lbs open with 1.6's, i think thats too much for stock lifters, but they might not be stockers... i need to ask the previous owner.

 

BTW: Do you go to UT or are UT alum?

Im in Aerospace at UT right now, i just saw your pic giving the hook 'em.

-Stu

 

Why not, instead of getting LT/Duals, get the 12 bolt with steeper gears? That'll get you the torque back, you won't have to worry about breakin too much, plus you could run slicks

 

Well i can sell the current setup for the same price i can do LT's and true dual.

LT's are 400, true dual is about 300. I can sell my entire exhaust setup right now for about 550. Thats only a $150 i need to find. I also have a fresh set of comp pro mags right here that i could easily sell for 200+.

I dont think i do enough drag racing to need a 12 bolt, but i just want to take precautions so i dont have to.

 

With that much torque, you don't need to do much drag racing to break your existing rear. Racing can be very frustrating if all you do is spin, even if you only go to the track 2-3 times per season. Also, if you don't hook, you never really know what the car can do. The coice is certainly yours to make, but getting a ride home on a flatbed is a bummer.

 

Well hooking up isnt my problem. It WONT spin unless i drop the clutch, which i havent even done yet. I just wasnt sure if the torque alone was enough to break the 10 bolt, or if it would hold up as long as i dont launch it.

 

Hard to say... The stock rear is going on ten years of use, and what amount of abuse is anybodys guess. I generally got about 400 passes and 20,000 miles between rebuilds back when my car had less mods than yours.

The shock of a launch is the worst part but any time you stress a component you can have failure. My hunch is it is purely a judgement call on your part. My advise it to get a triple A plus card and only call after it breaks so you can tell them your car is in the parking lot and you are watching the race.