Can I disable the knock sensor via LT1 edit? If not is there another way? I think Im getting a ton of knock with my cutout open since its loud as hell at WOT.

I would verifiy the knock count before I did this ofcourse.

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96 black Z28 A4
GTP heads, GTP cam, bolt ons...
Mattucci Motorsports WNYFA FLFB
So far...12.7@108...need more practice...
The Z

 

I wouldn't suggest doing that. You might want to try some race gas to see if the knock goes away or try to insulate your y-pipe with something if there is some major rattling. Here's why you probably don't want to eliminate the knock sensor.

http://www.ls1tech.com/ubb/ultimateb...c;f=1;t=007265

Also here's some more info on what the problems might be.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=154389
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* 1998 Trans Am A4
* 353 RWHP / 346 Torque
* mods: G2 sway bars, KB DD subframes, Tbyrne LCAs - panhard rod - & ported MAF ends, GTP Stage II heads, TR 224/224 112LSA .561 cam, FLPs, whisper c/f lid, K&N, HAL/QA shocks, NGK TR55 plugs, MSD wires, FTRA, Hotchkis STB, Pro Dyno MTTP catback, Mecham hood and spoiler 13.2 @ 111

[This message has been edited by Bloodztone (edited September 05, 2002).]

 

I would reduce the attack rate and maximum while increasing the rate timing is put back in. I've noticed knock hits at a certain rpm then goes away in only a few hundred rpms. Of course then go back and reduce overal timing around that rpm.

Hal

 

I copied this off another thread.

go to Radio Shack and pick up a 1 watt 3.9k resistor. Unplug the connection to the knock sensor and hook the resistor up to the plug on the end of the wire, then wire it to ground. This will make the computer think there is NEVER a knock, so beware...if you get a bad batch of gas or something....
You can't just wrap it up and tape it out of the way unless you run something to ground the body to the block or frame.
There is only one wire that goes to the knock sensor. It gets its ground from contact with the block itself.