I just got the DataMaster Software to work and this is what I came up with. Sorry I didn't record any data at idle, but I will here shortly.

RPMS 2025-2031
MAP KPa 40.6
Fuel Trim Cell 18
LTerm Counts 132-131
STerm Counts 128-128
BPW mS 2.64-2.61
INJ DC (cala) 4.5-4.4
02 mV 852-480 (I have a small exhaust leak on the drivers side)
AFGS 22.58
TPS% 3.1
TPS Volts 1.06

Spark Advance 44.0 (isn't that high?)
Spark Retard 0.0
Knock Count 1880
EGR DC 0.0 (deleted)
CCP DC 0.0 (I don't know what this is)
IA Temp *F 104.5
A/C Temp *F 90.0
A/C Press PsI 10.7
Idle RPM 900
IAC Pos 28
Speed 0

Also all of these #s are in open loop if it matters, and the only time my car is in closed loop is above ~3000 RPMs at more than 50% throttle

I'm going to go out and record once with the car idleing and see what #s I come up with. But Should I trust the MAP sensor #s since its throwing a code? My brother is bringing me a new MAP sensor, but that won't be here until 7:30 or so.

Also my plugs are gapped to .050 and are stock heat range, should I get a hotter or colder plug since my heads flow alot more than stock and I have more compression?

 

The stock tune has 43* advance at the map and RPM's you list. Add the mysterious couple of extra degrees of timing added, and your timing looks right for a stock tune at least.

Dan

 

Its not a stock tune though.

I took my car out and did some WOT passes with it and at 6350 RPMs I have 92.6 MAP KPA and 39* of timing with 0 Knock retard. My Fuel trim was at 15 and the 02 were reading 963 and 795

I wish I could figure out how to load my WOT run up on here so you guys can try to help me out some more. But in 1st gear the graph is nice and smooth until the shift point and then climbing the RPMs in 2nd the graph is shakey

I'm going to work on loading the graph onto my desktop and hopefully figure out how to get it on the forum.

But if you need any more #s please let me know, and one more thing how do you clear trouble codes with the datamaster?

Thanks in advance

 

39* at 6350 and WOT is correct. Mine is set at 36*, and the PCM adds another couple of degrees, and that's what you are seeing. I would probably see 38-39* in the same scenario.

Dan

 

Ok so the timing is correct, but I just can't figure out why my car is running like such crap. I have to wait until monday to get a fuel pressure tester to try to rule out the fuel pump, I just replaced the fuel filter and that made no change. My car runs ok when its cold, but as soon as it gets up to temp it runs like crap. Making me want to rule out any ignition like opti, plugs, wires, ICM, and so on since it runs ok cold. I really think my pushrods are too long and I have a length checker coming and will order the right length if I need to. This is really just getting the better of me, I honestly can't figure this out and I don't have enough knowledge on the scanning tools to really do anything. I can't even clear off my trouble codes. I'm working on burning the scan to a disk so I can load it to my desktop so hopefully someone here with more knowledge than me can help me out.

 

Ok I have the file on my desktop and if you have the Datamaster software on your computer I can send it to you and see if you can help me figure this out. Other than that I don't know what to do besides to get a Dyno tune, and I really can't afford that at this time.

If you can help me send me your email address and I'll send the file to you

Thanks

 

You can send it to me.... e-mail is in my profile. Be sure to put your screen name, and the word DataMaster in the e-mail "topic", or I won't open it.

You can also upload your file to an FTP site, there are several free ones. By posting the file in both DataMaster (.uni) and .csv formats, it allows anyone to look at the file, not just people with DataMaster.

 

Email sent, please let me know if it works or not. I also uploaded the .uni to a FTP site like you suggested, but it still requires you to have the datamaster software, but I also did it in the .csv format, but its not a graph but a spreadsheet, but I'll post the link to both if it will help anyone.

Heres the Link but I think you may have to be a member, if you know of a better site please let me know.....
http://www.drivehq.com/file/ShowFold...ntPath=\Upload

 

No membership required to download here. http://www.mediafire.com

 

Thanks man

Heres another link that may work better

http://www.mediafire.com/?cystmxydtxy

 

You have DTC 33 for high MAP reading (= low vacuum). Often sets at idle when the cam has excessive overlap. May be a valve adjustment problem. Or may be a fualty sensor or harness connector.

In power enrichment mode (PE = ~WOT) the left side is running excessively rich (O2's as high as 1000+) and the right side is running very lean (O2's as low as 790). The left side O2 averages about 126mV higher than the right side. Your long terms in Cell 15 indicate that its adding 11.7% extra fuel to the left side, and 2.3% extra fuel to the right side.

MAP bounces around a lot during hard acceleration. Could be misfires of could be bad valve adjustment. Or maybe a faulty sensor or harness connector.

TPS at closed throttle is 0.96V. Should be closer to 0.65V, although not mandatory.

I understand you've had a somewhat heated discussion with one of our regulars here on another forum about the right way to adjust the valves. Did you ever get it sorted out?

 

Thanks alot, my car has a small exhaust leak on the drivers side that I'm working on fixing, would that cause the car to run excessively rich on that side? I'm going to recheck the length on the pushrods and make sure I ordered the right length and if not I'm going to order a new set that are the correct length. And yes I did get into a "heated" discussion on z28.com, but thats over and done with, and I hope there are no hard feelings about it.

I also ordered a new MAP sensor pigtail because my clip that holds it on was broken and I'm also going to order a new Opti wiring harness since that seems to pop up every once in a while when I have been researching.

Then I'm also going to replace the plugs again, but I can't figure out what heat range to get and what the gaps should be at. Right now I have stock heat range plugs gapped at .050, but I have more compression than stock (probably 11.5-12:1 with my decked block and milled heads) and alot better flowing heads.

But I will replace and recheck all of the problems that I listed above and hopefully by the end of the week have something figured out and a new graph that you can look at.

Thanks again for the help Injuneer, I truely appreciate it and I'll update my progress and if it make any difference with the performance of the car.

 

What plugs are you using? Plug wires new or old? Are you using anything like a MSD box?

 

I'm using the Bosch Super+ right now because I keep fouling plugs and don't want to use more expensive ones right now. And I have new Taylor 8.2 wires with the fire boots so my headers can't burn them. And no MSB box at this time, but that is on my "to do list"

 

Try some NGK TR55s. No fancy platinum or irridium. Just their standard copper core plugs. $1.49 ea around here. You need to find the cause of the plugs fouling. Are they fuel fouled or oil fouled? Is this on a stock tune or modified? Do you have tuning software? Have you ever checked what your WOT A/F is with a wideband?