Ok you have a heads and camed car fully ported heads and big cam ie 847

looking to see how you would tune a car where do you spend most of your time ie tables ..

If you have any tricks (that you want to give out)

what in your mind what is the most important table..

and yes on the dyno where do you spend your time....

What are things you don't want to see and any problems you have come across

lets talk real tuning here....

thx

 

Go buy yourself a wideband. Then you can start some REAL tuning...


Can't tell you what tables to tune if I don't know what software your using

 

If i had the money for a wideband....... Sorry tuner cat.....

 

It depends what you are trying to accomplish with your tune. What issues do you have with the way the car starts and runs now?

Rich Krause

 

#1 you need a DYNO with a WIDEBAND or all you will be doing is guessing.

#2 I personally start with the timing tables, a cam such as the "847" needs a little more timing at lower RPMs than a stock cam. The 847 is far from a BIG cam compared to the solid roller I am running so I cant tell you what numbers to use. You will need a scan tool to check for and spark retard and a dyno to measure power increase/decrease and AF ratio.

#3 after some timing adjustments I would use the MAF table ( in your case because hte 847 cam isnt that big) to tune for idle and part throttle drivability. And if your WOT AF ratio isnt too far off I would then jsut use the PE tables to increase oe decrease the fuel at WOT. If your A/F ratio is really rich/lean then you may need to decrease/increase your higher MAF tables ( refer to scan tool for GPS of air used when car is rich/lean) to bring them closer to desired A/F ratio then fine tune with your PE tables.

The 847 cam isnt too diffcult to tune for, you might get better idle quality and vacuum if you increase your closed throttle spark advance and maybe even your IAC settings.

 

what you should do first is get optimal timing advance.. timing IS everything.

next play with the injector constant to get your BLMs at or near 128 w/o going over! use the MAF table for fine tuning.

lastly get on a dyno with a wideband and make the necessary adjustments to your PE tables to get you about a 12.8 AFR across the RPM range at WOT.

 

The car run's great , the car made 380rwhp 350rwtq @ 13.0 AFR.

I am just trying to find that extra 10-15 rwhp here Yes this all done on a dyno with a wideband.

If you could when you talk about say "timing" say what tables you are doing the adjusting in as well so i can see if i am doing the same thing.... thx

1-I think the timing is very close i have 37* i will up it 1 at a time..
TriPinTaZ what kind off timing are you talking about...


2-as you can see i have the AFR @13.0, i was thinking of going to 13.4 to see what the car did...

3- i have read not to adjust the MAF tables

4-closed spark is at 35 ?.?.? i will have to look

5-adjust the iac table ? how and what should i set it at

what you should do first is get optimal timing advance.. timing IS everything.

So you would say timing before fuel

next play with the injector constant to get your BLMs at or near 128 w/o going over! use the MAF table for fine tuning.

with the blm i have read 118-130 range should be good..i have played with the maf and inj constant tables with no luck

lastly get on a dyno with a wideband and make the necessary adjustments to your PE tables to get you about a 12.8 AFR across the RPM range at WOT.

will i am at 13 so is 13.4

 

that tune sounds pretty good for your CAM. As long as you dont have any spark retard you can go ahead and inch up the spark tables a little, just make sure your knock sensor is working.


MY closed throttle timing is at 45 degrees and my WOT timing is at 39 degrees and i have NO spark retard. Next trip to the dyno I am going to flirt with increasing the timing even more at WOT.

my crusing timing is in the 40-46 range, but again i have a large solid roller cam 12.32:1 compresison , that would be too much timing for your cam.

 

Where are you starting your wot ...@85/90/95 kpa.....and have you inched up your over all timing table as well....

Why so much closed spark 45 did you do this with a vac gauge on the car or by the map sensoe readings

thx

 

I think it goes way up like that when letting off the throttle at high rpm.

Hal

 

WOT is in the 95-100 KPA range. So i set the 95 and 100 tables for WOT spark. MY entire timing talbe has been increased, it looks nothing like stock whatsoever. MY cam is a 260/260 solid roller so I dont see a KPA below 60 hardly ever. The only time it dips below 60 is on the highway at closed throttle or letting off the gas at high rpms will send the KPA down into the 30s.

As far as closed throttle spark advance I used the CLOSED THROTTLE SPARK ADVANCE table. It is at 45 degrees i nthe idle and low rpm decell area ( 0-1600 RPMs) and is at 40 degrees at any other RPM at closed throttle.

I must stress to you that my engine is not your normal cam and heads engine. The cam is huge and the combustion chambers are shaped and polished and the piston faces have also been machined between the valve reliefs. This decreases the chance of detonation. I have 12.32:1 compression as well. Not all engines will like this kind of advance. your regular heads and cam engine could never use this kind of advance. it could damage them.

 

Your timing table how did you no where to add in timing and how much

 

i didnt, i have made over 100 tunes for my car. each time it get a little better, little by little. Dyno time helps alot too. but mainly for WOT tuning. Part throttle crusing takes time and testing to get it right.