Am I correct in reading the tunercat page,.....I need to purchase the ECM def. file before I can change any calibrations with the trial version? It says its a fully functional version, but without the def. file what can I do besides upload and download flashes? It says in order to purchase the def. file that I need to register the program?? So basically its useless unless you're just downloading a flash? Maybe im missing something.

 

It comes with the def file for $42 ECM, which is 87-91 C/K pickup/vans standard duty. If you can find someone with a calibration file for those year trucks/vans, you can play around with the various tables and see what can be done.

However, you can't do anything to a 93-95 Camaro LT1 without purchasing the proper def file ($DA3 for 93 Camaro LT1, $EE for 94-95 Camaro LT1). If you are serious about starting your own tuning, it's only $90 for the tuner and the def file. Much better deal than anything else on the market (not to mention it's not lock to a single VIN like LT1Edit).

 

so i am reading correctly? i cant use the tuner until I get the $EE def. file. It looks as though you can buy the def. file through paypal though, but I thought I read somewhere you need to register b4 you can buy it but that doesnt appear to be the case unless they check your email to see if you've registered already. What if I was to get the def. file from someone here, would I be able to use it on the trial version to mess around?

 

You can use the def files other than $42 on the trial version, but good luck trying to find someone to give you a copy for free. No one that paid for a copy is going to give it to you, and you aren't suppose to ask for free software on the forum if you have to buy it.

 

I agree w/Doom Master. Download the $EE &EEB definitions, pay the $19.95 they will send you a PW to unzip the files. You can also download the "Tuner" program and unzip it free for a 30 day trial. If you like it pay the $69.95 and they will send you a customer number and registration number to keep it running after 30 days. It's a good deal only 20 bucks to play with for a month and then $70 more if you like it. If you don't like it you're only out $19.95.

 

well thats kind of what I was asking. If I pay the $20 will they send me the def. file b4 I pay the $70 to register the software for good?

 

Have you checked out tunerpro? It's free and tunerpro RT is $30

 

ordered the def. file last night and they DID send it to me. Ill try installing it in the trial version l8r and playing with it. Im looking to raise the shift point mph and also delay the lockup points in 3rd gear. where would I go to start doing this and anybody have any pointers? Newbie to tuning but I understand how the pcm uses the maps and sensors. What maps should I be concerned with and how much should I change settings? I also need to change the gear ratio, thats mostly my problem as Ive gone from 3.23 to 3.73 and thats thrown my whole transmission tune off. Im going to need to start there first obviously. Thanks

 

ok the gear ratio is in the speed calibration part, dont mess with the shift point mph, its set so that the car shifts at a low rpm at part throttle and as map decresses shift point rpm goes up.just bump your max line pressure up a little to firm up the shifts,120 is a good place to start but i wouldnt go much more than 135.read the sticky on trans tuning, its great.if the car is stick you can disable the skip shift (c.a.g.s?) in the switch tables and disable the max mph fuel cutoff(mph limiter) .

 

well the trans is already built and it shifts great. only problems im having is it shifts early because I never made the gear ratio change in the tune and because of that, it also locks up way too early. Ill try the speed calibration first because that may get me closer to where I should be.

I also need to add 4* of timing across the board because im installing a timing retard box that automatically removes 4* when you connect it. Stupid MSD box, it doesnt make sense why you would produce such a box, but I bought it not knowing this.

 

Hey brown94, start here it's a sticky at the top of this forum, https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=498673. I will help you get shift point speed lined up with your RPM's . Also search the net using " Speed Versus RPM " enter rear gear, xmission gearing, tires save & print out the results. I assume you have an A4. Since you went from 3.23 to 3.74 your are now running about 15% more RPM's per MPH so you may have to drop your MPH shift points 15%. There are four tables, Normal, Cruise, Manual, and performance (firebird T/A only) that control up/down shift points. You also have a Kickdown mode up/dn shift point table that handles WOT mode. Secondly there are five more tables for TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) engage and five more for TCC release. All are based on either RPM and/or speed). Realistically you should take this in small steps, get your speedometer set correctly with gear ratio & tire size. Then shift points and converter lockup. When happy with when it shifts and locks up work on transmission pressure (if you are not confident you know what you are doing with transmission pressure & time settings skip it and use stock settings). Then start on ignition timing, after that fuel AFR tuning. Then go back and tweak them all to get perfection. good luck LOL

 

makes perfect sense, and that was the kind of reply I was hoping for. I can handle this, just need some guidance through the transition. I work on cars daily and I understand most of the sensor variables and how they all interact fairly well, so I see the whole picture at once but putting it all on paper is a tough thing to grasp for sure. Its a great talent to be able to tune a car to the way YOU think it should handle. The engine is really only a piece of the whole picture but a properly functioning transmission does wonders as well. I cant wait to get a chunk of time to sit down and start making changes because ive been driving the car for awhile now, and I have a lot of "disappointing" areas of my mail order tune. Ill be getting a wideband kit on it soon as well because I feel it runs rich on cruise and idle areas which kinda bogs me down and delay throttle response in those "dead spots" where she doesnt seem to pull as hard on throttle position changes. Anyways, thanks for the positive re-inforcement.

 

It does take a little time and playing to get everything down. But once you get started, you'll find it's also addicting. And you've got the right idea going with a wideband, the narrowband info just isn't enough (you're just kinda guessing without a wideband). I'd recommend the LC-1 wideband, it's pretty inexpensive and easy to use with the stock PCM. There's a thread about it on this messageboard, do a search for using the A/C and wideband and you should find it.

 

yeah i remember reading that awhile back. you use the a/c pressure switch ckt. to feed the wideband into the pcm for datalogging right?

Is the LC-1 a good tuning tool, or should I be looking into something with a little more options like the LM-1 with rpm input? Right now the only logging capability I have is with my snap-on 2500 scanner but that only records like 30 seconds worth at a time. I haven't gotten a chance to sit down with tunercat software yet, hopefully later today I can.

 

Try downloading TTS DataMaster-EE it will give you 20 free logs , then you have to purchase. FreeScan for ODB1 is free but old & functionally limited, it's csv log format is easy to view using Microsoft Excel or OEM spread sheet SW. Tunercat does not have logging capability it's read/edit/write PCM only. You could also try downloading TunerPro Rt, it's free with voluntary donation, it's so-so with ODB1 monitoring for live operation but I could never get it to create a decent log ?? None of the above are close to a wideband for verifying AFR's