Shoebox suggested pulling this for roughly 30 seconds to reset my computer...if i have an aftermarket cam and other internals..will this mess anything up? Or wil my computer relearn the 'new' setup?
Also, should I disconnect my battery when pulling it (or i suppose leaving that connected is the purpose of pulling the fuse so it knows to reset? lol). And is there a diagram somewhere to locate this fuse? Thanks guys, As always Derek

 

yes, thats the best way to reset the computer, dont have to disconnect the battery, so you wont lose your radio starions. The fuse is located in the fuse block on the drivers side of the dash. On the back of panel you pull off to get to the fuses there should be a diagram of which each fuse is for. Just find the PCM BATT fuse and yank it out.

This will clear all the codes and make the PCM forget anything it has learned. It will just go back to last flash that was uploaded to it. So if you have had your PCM flashed my Madwolf or PCM for less or someone else you will be fine, you wont lose that tune. You will also be fine if you have the stock tuning.

 

thanks jchevy!
Im gonna go out and do this right now to see if this helps pinpoint my problem..If it runs smoother for a bit due to the fact it is from my cat not being on the car..Ill know hopefully..just a new cat would fix me. About how long on average would it take the PCM to learn of the problem if it is the O2 sensors getting a false/bad reading? If i disconnect this..and its the problem..will it run close to normal for a couple hours and give me time to see if its a big difference..or will it start learning right away (within a few minutes) and wont give me the chance to really see if resetting it made a difference? Thanks guys!
(by the way, i checked out shoeboxes website again..damn that is so helpful. If i wasnt in a money slump right now (hate paying bills ) Id send a couple bux his way for the site..as a lot of you should too.. )Next Im gonna adjust my window (it slips forward when i brake, and goes back when i step on it..I think the bottom adjustment screw must have broken or something.but his site helped me figure out how to troubleshoot!) Thanks Shoebox!
Derek

 

The oxygen sensors are actually not used on first start up or at WOT. So if the car gives you problems when you first start it or when you are at wot then you can rule out the o2 sensors. You dont need to reset the PCM for this.

 

its actually not really at WOT (does hesitate alittle) but definetly not at startup..or at idle. Its really any type of acceleration where feul or whatever is applied...
Theres a new problem though...I just checked my fuse panel..found the BATT spot..and guess what..theres nothing in it! These are for the little wires to go into right? they are not really "fuses"...like for the IGN (ignition?) and for the ACCY (just above and to the right of the BATT).
There is a blue wire male end going into the ACCY port..but nothing in the IGN or BATT port. I do however have a red and black set of wires..with the male end on them (flat male tip) that are just 'sitting' in the fuse area not connected to anything..is that red/black wire combo the one that 'should be' plugged into my BATT maybe?? I didnt wanna short anything (since i have my radio playing while im working on it ) by just putting that in to a spot. Do you(anyone) think this BATT wire was taken out due to the cam and other stuff so the car wasnt trying to run default settings? (not exactly sure how this stuff works..but I did have my engine worked on/rebuilt/upgraded and I also the BATT has nothing plugged into it).
Another long post...Derek

 

Since it doesnt do it on start up you can rule out the Oxygen sensors. Also with you having a 94, cat or no cat, unless its plugged, shouldnt effect how your car runs. Technically the car doesnt even know its there since you have no downstream o2 sensors to monitor if its working properly or not.

I have an empty BATT slot on my car also. I dont think the car will run without the PCM BAT fuse in place.

On my car its in the top row, second fuse from the right.

 

well if its not my O2 sensors..Im back where i started
Now I have a new problem I have to figure out..what are these extra wires in my fuse block area...And what is so significant about the BATT and IGN slots where I need them on the fuse block..but nothing is (or looks as it has) been plugged into them for a while. Does anyone know what the BATT or IGN are for or what they mean? (ex.MAF mass air flow lol). Ive checked both my GM manual (piece of crap) and the Haynes I have, neither mentions the fuse block..only shows a diagram and what the other actualy 'fuses' are for..but nothign about the little ACCY, BATT, or IGN spots. Im so lost now.
I know my car HAD an alarm system on it previously cause it has a little red cutom light by the ashtray..I beleive its not stock. It goes undert the dash though (ive taken the console out before to clean inside it) and then disappears if I remember right. It also has a theft system..the little 'key' thing that someome custom fabbed to the PCM under the dash. It has like a bagillion wires come from it and goes up under the steering column. Its like an expensive theft detierant thing I guess..the guy said he paid $hundreds for it I can simply pull out the 'key' and I suppose the Ignition wont start or something, who knows.
Other than that, no after market system was ever in it (stereo)...so I dont think the wires are for that. Anyone wanna fly to Colorado and help me? you can stay at my place and fix my car for FREE if you'd like!!!!
Seriously though, Im stuck..back to the drawing board on my cars acceleration/stutter problem. Pleh. Maybe I should just buy some plugs and wires and see if thats a consistant problem..but thats another post. Lates all, thanks jchevy for your help! Derek

 

Don't worry about all that other stuff in there right now. Find the PCM BAT fuse. The backside of the cover has a template of all the fuse locations. example Should be a snap to locate.

There will be several "open" slots in the fuse panel for adding aftermarket accessories that need power.

 

The "BATT" and "IGN" slots are simply provided so that you can pick up swithced (IGN) and unswitched (BATT) 12V power for non-factory accessories. There is not supposed to by anything plugged into those slots. If you want to hook up something like gauges, a nitrous arming signal, etc, you put a 1/4" female spade connector on the power wire and plug it into the slot.

It appears someone might have had some wires attached to the slots, but that isn't something that would be making you engine act up.

Also, a suggestion.... don't feel you have to double check on Shoebox's advice... he is very precise and very accurate. You have to understand that the PCM stores very little information in "volatile" memory (what you clear when you pull the power). It clears the "learned" long term fuel corrections, the "learned" IAC position and possibly a flag for extended use of low octane fuels. The PCM isn't a Kray super-computer, its actually fairly simple. All the "programming", tables, etc are stored in "non-volatile" memory. You can't lose any of that by pulling the power.

I think you're over complicating the whole thing.

You are confusing the "BATT" slot, with the "PCM BAT" fuse, which is clearly labled on both the fuse box cover and on the fuse box.

 

wow..I feel like an idiot!!
I was expecting to look for something abit more significant..I ended up looking past the PCM BAT label (10fuse i believe) on the left lower corner of the fuse block. I wasnt looking for the skimpy fuses I was thinking of something more that would shout out at me once I found it..
Anyways, I ended up finding the stupid little tiny 10 fuse..pulled it and will rerun it. Just as a recap..this most likely wont be my problem and Im doin this all for nothing huh... Cause stated by jchevy, unless it does it at startup..its most likely not the O2 sensors? And a friend said that they shouldnt act up if theres' no cat..infact it should run better (that doesnt make sense to me..but okay..). Ill go put some gas in the car and drive it for a few minutes to see if it seems any different, if this doesnt work, Im takin it to my friends uncle who is GM certified to hook it up ($35 full diagnostic..not bad huh)...tomorrow or tuesday. Thanks for all your helps guys and I hope to friggin god this is what the problem is (im just telling myself this so I feel better momentarily.. )
If it does work..what does this mean? Resetting the Pcm BAT reset all the default settings...so what can I narrow down to..as to the problem if Im having this BAD stutter at any acceleration? Would this indicate a Feul issue maybe? Thanks guys, Derek
Injuneer/shoebox..thanks guys!