Need help with with my o2's on my obd2 to 1 conversion, do i use the downstream flat plug o2's or the upstream square plug o2's? The car now has pacesetter LT's and a cc306 and le2 heads.

 

You use the same flat plug pre-cat sensors for both OBD-I and OBD-II.
The after-cat sensors have the square plug.

Front/Pre-Cat AFS75

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&a=FR321-AFS75




Rear/After-Cat AFS97 (now AFS123)

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&a=FR321-AFS97

 

Keep it up and there will be consequences.

 

Thats what i told him..

 

lol ..We just got his build togeather and it screams ..so not sure why he is asking..

 

Cause there is no codes..And it runs awsome..

 

Now i will have to get one of those sticky mouse Traps to catch that fast mouse..LOL

 

But your answer was wrong.... somebody's going to do a "search" and find the incorrect info and believe it. That's not helping anyone.

 

I thought it was the flat plug. I only have the two sensors connected, they are in the collectors of the LT's The reason i am asking is my o2 voltage at idle is very low it only changes from .300mv up to .500mv on the right bank and the left bank runs from .200mv to .300mv back and fourth. The BLM's at idle have a large split of like 15 to 20 from left to right, I have played with the idle fuel trims and still seem to have a large split. The left bank seems to run lean, the right bank has a steady BLM of about 127 to 126, the intergtator is at 128 which means no fuel correction right? Is the voltage reading low because the o2's are farther down from the engine in the headers causing them to indicate a lean voltage reading?


When I rev the engine the BLM's run right at 128 and the o2's go to .900mv, just want to try and tune for part throttle and idle, I still have to get a wideband for WOT tuning.

 

And the 02's have been extended buy cutting the wires and adding a foot of wire and putting wire clamps in between .could this be the problem..Cause the 02 wire is stainless steal and the added wire is not ?

 

Generally a bad idea to cut the O2 sensor wires. Better to splice into the vehicle wiring harness, or buy a professional quality extension.

While the sensors are further from the engine, they are 4-wire heated sensors, and they should stay hot enough. Make sure you don't have any codes for the heater circuits. Is it possible you soaked them with WD40 or some sort of rust penetrant to remove them? That can screw them up. Did you use excessive anti-seize when you installed them, or perhaps contaminate them?

Are the sensors new? Are the headers coated? If they are new and cera-metallic coated, the O2 seem to die shortly thereafter.

 

Maybe its the airflow at idle, I need to open the idle screw more?

 

You indicate you have access to reading the O2 sensor voltage and BLM's? How are you scanning it? If you have scanning software, post the scan data on an ftp site.

 

Yes i know it was a bad idea to cut the sensor wires but i planned on replacing them anyways. needed to get the car running so i could get it home, could not keep it in the location it was at any longer. The headers are not new and the o2's did get a small amount of antiseize. The sensors also had to be hit with some PB blaster. so what u are saying is to just buy 2 new o2 sensors and get the exstentions right? Where do i find the exstensions? What brand o2's work best?

 

I have tunercat and freescan, post it on ftp site? Is that like photobucket?