Any idea what the electrical interference at about 2000-2200rpm could be?

I pulled off the vacuum lines and pluged them up and no help. I pulled off my egr block off plates, cleaned the surfaces really well, and put them on with a new coat of permatex high temp RTV gasket maker, as well as let it cure for 24 hours. I unhooked the power cable for my alarm and stereo, the msd is bypassed, I hooked the fuel pressure gauge up, when I turn the key on it spike at like 45psi for a second, then comes down to 39. when the car starts, it jumps up and around a lil bit, but stays around 40psi, when I rev the engine manually under the hood, it makes the pressure jump a few psi. durring the bog down, it had plenty of psi, then almost died when the rpms fell, I just barely kept it running with small lil ammounts of throttle, but the engine was shaking pretty bad till it like cought back up with itself and started idleing on its own again. I should have done a datalog at the time, but its not running any differently than it was in the last datalogs that I posted.

I just dont know what to do anymore

 

i know on stock lt1s that the computer adjusts timing for the egr to open. i have seen vehicles with egr disconnected not run nearly as good as it should. just something i have seen not related to your problem. but check the ground around your coil area. i had a caprice give similair evil problems due to a bad ground.

 

on this topic, sorry to jump in here but for some reason my o2's read 4 mv till they warm up?????? and then i need to turn the car off then back on to get them to read right????? this is after the cam install and tune

 

When you start the engine cold, the O2 sensors should read 450mV, since that's what the PCM apples to them, and the sensors can not generate a voltage of their own when they are cold. As the sensor warms up, and IF you have the AIR system functional, the O2 mV's will gradually start dropping, reaching 4mV when they are fully warmed up and the AIR pump is still pushing fresh air into the exhaust.

When the PCM sees the O2 sensors are functioning, and the coolant is warm enough, and the timer has timed out, it turns off the AIR pump, and switches to closed loop, when the O2 sensors should start to cycle rapidly from 0xx-9xx mV's.

 

i dont have the airpump system, so that dont make any since, mine do that when they are cold. wonder if the airpump system is in my program????? and i dont have it so it is reking havic

 

well guys, I have pulled my headers back off, cleaned the surfaces really well, put them back on with some new percy's deadsoft gaskets. My new set of Percy's deadsoft aluminum gaskets has slightly larger holes where the bolts go through than the last set I got; this is a good thing and it let me move the gaskets around a slight bit to where they needed to stay. I used my old set of percy's as a guide for where to positon the new gaskets, based on the carbon deposits and leakes I could see. even so, they probably would have sealed up if I had taken more time to clean the gasket surfaces better. I hope to get another datalog soon, and I think that my O2 readings should be spot on. However I doubt that leaky headers are my only problem, and I am spent, I have no idea what else it could be; and I'm gunna break down and take it to someone.

 

Well, after all of that trouble and money, valve train and exhaust all perfect, I think I finally tracked down my problem. from under the car you can hear bottom end knock. and I couldnt hear it from the top side of the engine, especially not over the leaking headers. Sometime this weekend I am going to change the oil and rip the oil filter apart to look for metal shavings.

Time to save up for that new shortblock. But for the time being, I think I am going to see If I can replace the bearings with the engine in the car, and see if I can get it to last me another year or two before I can drop in a stroker. Thanks for all the help guys.