This is the thread where i describe the problem. http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=489216

Here is the link to the file. The first part is driving from my house to the big main road. Towards the end is when i go WOT in 3rd gear, you can see the 4 degrees it pulls the whole time. A couple things i noticed, the blms stay at 108 when i drive, and when i idle they split pretty bad. And when i stop the TPS is still reading 2% even though my foot is off the gas. I downloaded a BLM locker program, should i put it in, or is there another way to fix the problem?

http://www.mydatabus.com/public/wann...06_driving.uni

 

I'll take a look at it. A quick glance shows TPS seems to start out at 0% / 0.73V. And it comes back down to 0% / 0.71V toward the end of the log. Looks like its sticking open when it reads 2% / 0.80V. Or the TPS sensor is loose, or the end of the shaft is not tight in the notch in the sensor.

You need to solve the BLM issues..... they drop to 108/108 and on top of that the INT's are pulling out another huge amount of fuel. When you go WOT, the O2's start pushing up into the mid 900's which MAY indicate you have some sort of a "true" rich condtion pulling down the BLM's and INT's. You can see it continuing to richen at higher RPM in the more recent dyno pull.

The knock retard it so pervasive that it looks like some sort of mechanical noise. However, the programmed advance looks a bit aggressive, with up to 38deg advance (or showing 34deg + 4deg retard) at high load/RPM. Have you ever tried pulling out about 5deg across the board to see if it eliminates the knock?

What's the ACTUAL static compression ratio (not estimated - the actual, based on measurements of the heads, etc.)? How big is the cam?

The fact that its got those dips in the tail end of the pull is not likely because of the 4deg of retard. But it may indicate some sort of detonation/preignition that is causing it to lose power. Maybe it needs a higher max than 4deg.

Your inlet air temps look high, frequently over 100degF, but maybe that's how bad the weather was in FL when you logged it?

 

The part where the TPS reads 0 at .71 is right when i let off the throttle, maybe it snapped back too hard and moved the tps a little? Im going to move it later and set it a little lower, like between .60 and .70.

How would i go about solving the BLM issue. Wouldnt it dropping to 108 help on gas mileage? The part where it does that is when i was cruising, i dont know if you caught that or not. What are the INT's? Ion did the tuning for it, i have the racetronix 42 lb injectors in there, the specs are "Part Number Delphi 01D030B (Lucas old 5208009, Lucas New 621031, Delphi old D3181AA)
Static Flow Rate: 42.29 lb/hr @ 43.5PSI (300kPa) or 320gm/min
Static Flow Rate: 48.83 lb/hr @ 58.0PSI (300kPa) or 370gm/min ", what should the pcm read for them?

Im thinking it's noise too, i found out my accessory bracket is loose and it's making some noise, i went to tighten it and the one bolt thats the top bolt of the power steering wont tighten. The hole in the head is stripped i think. But im also hearing a loud rocker on the driver side, so im going to readjust them, check for exhaust leaks, and data log again.

About the advance, ion said that lloyd recommends even more than that, and it shouldnt be the problem. Again, the car feels fine, this miss only shows up on the dyno. I did run a friend i usually destroy, and i didnt pull as hard as i used to. The tune has been the same every time we have ran. This is also the same tune that i ran 12.18 @117 on, so im thinking it has to be something not adjusted right, or the spark plugs/wires. Im going to pull the plugs this weekend, even though they are new. I would take the car to the track to see how it does, but i already know it's pulling timing and i want to fix that.

I dont know the actual, the motor is 0 decked, lloyds heads which have been milled a couple times also. It was supposed to be 11-1, but im sure it's in the mid 11's. I used stock felpro gaskets to try and bring it down some, since i had to have the heads milled when i blew the gasket. The machine shop milled them .005, both sides were done.

Im going to pick up some race gas after i try to fix the mechanical knock. Put it on the dyno again and see what happens. If i dont have the miss anymore, i guess im detonating.

The intake temps are high because i pulled the SS filter tract off right before i data logged. I was adjusting the idle using datamaster to get the IAC lower, and it was in the way. So it was sucking up hot engine compartment air. Ill put the tract back on next time also. I was about 70-75 degrees when i took the log.

 

I pulled the plugs and they are all white except the #8 which is tan and is kinda wet with fuel i think. Im switching the #8 injector to #1 to see if the problem follows the injector.

 

I readjusted the rockers, fixed some exhaust leaks, and im still pulling 4 degrees up top. I also noticed my blms are still way split and i dont know how to fix it w/o using the BLM locker. Is that my only choice?

Here's the new file...

http://www.mydatabus.com/public/wannabess/z/122706.uni

 

I can't look at anything until I go back to work next Tuesday... DataMaster is on my PC there.

 

I was having the same problem as you as far as the 108 block learns. I found what frequincy this was happening in and adjusted the maf tables accordingly. There is a formula your supposed to use when you scale the maf tables. I dont have the formula here at work but i can post it when i get home. Never the less when I put that in my BL jumped from 108 to 116. So a little more tuning and I should be close a far as part throttle tuning.

 

Awesome, so just a tuning issue? Jeremy formato is coming down in two weeks and im having my car dyno tuned, with some part throttle. But im going to buy some race gas to see if it's real knock or false knock im getting. And i still cant figure out why my tps is hanging up when i let off, it still reads 1.2% when im still at the same .67 volts.