The code 43 showed up as a history code, not a current code.

-I was getting up to 7* of knock at idle. When I touched the throttle it went to 0* and while driving it went to 0*. First question is, why am I getting knock retard at idle and none at speed?

-The left o2 sensor was reading between 200-488mVolts
-The right o2 sensor was reading between 300-800mVolts

Could the lean readings from the o2 sensor be because the engine is not running right or is it because the o2's are bad?

 

How did you get the O2 sensor readings - data log?

What was the operating condition of the engine when you read them - fully warmed up and in closed loop? Were you at part load/part throttle? If so, you should see them bouncing back and forth from as low as 0xxmV to 9xxmV.

 

I used AutoXray.

At idle, they were bouncing from 200mVolts - 488mVolts on the left and 265mVolts - 800mVolts on the right. When I applied part throttle, it went to 550mVolts on the left and up to 850mVolts on the right.

Also, when the SES light is off, I will get up to 7* knock retard at idle and 0* knock retard while driving (at least last night).

Today, when the SES light was off, it was going from 5* to 7*. When the SES light was on, it stayed pretty much at 7*.

If my circuit is indeed damaged, could it be partial? I thought that if the knock sensor went bad, my computer would automatically throw 12* of knock retard.

All reading were at closed loop.




How do I get the data from the AutoXray scanner to my desktop computer? I downloaded the software from the disc. Now when I hook the scanner up to the computer, it doesn't do anything.

 

When you look at the little screen on a scanner, you can't even see all the data for the O2 sensors.... the numbers are changing more than 9 times per second. They flash so fast you can see all the data. You need a longer term data log. Even if you pulled the few seconds of data that the AutoXray can store, each frame of data will be so far apart the it will have missed many of the values from the O2 sensors. Even with a data logger you have the same problem, unless you can set it to record at 10 frames per second. But at least with the large amount of data you can record on a data logger, you can look at long term averages and extremes, both high and low to see if the sensors are responding correctly.

A data logger also shows you how the short term and long term fuel corrections are responding. If your left O2 sensor was never going over 488mV, the long terms would start ratcheting up to correct for the lean condition, and they would start to cover the full range.

If your sensor really never goes over 488mV, you may have a sensor problem or a lean problem on that side. But ith the limited data you have, I don't think that's your problem. If it really never went over 488mV, the PCM would push the long terms up to 160, and you would get a code for "lean".

 

I unplugged knock sensor and it didn't make a lick of a difference. I'm still getting 7* retard at idle and 0* when I apply the throttle.

 

I have dealt with this knock problem for months. Finally dissapeared when I swaped the sensor. Came back up last week when I went to duals, so I believe most of it was false knock, and it read so much knock that it was throwing the code. I did the 25% resistor mod and it hasn't come back since.

 

If false knock was the problem, then why would I be getting the same retard with the sensor unplugged?

 

I am assuming you have a tune. In my tune the max retard is set to 7*. That way no matter what sensors make the pcm pull timing, it pulls a max of 7*. Either you have cross talk from the wires, bad wires/sensor, or false knock, when you unplug the sensor the pcm is still freaking out and pulling whatever timing it can.

I assume the pcm sees an unplugged sensor about the same as one that is knocking 100% of the time.

 

Ok, but why does it go to 0* when I hit the gas?

 

Does it always do that? I noticed after watching mine for a while it would go to 0 at certain times, while other it would go back and peg at 7*. Do you have a lot of lope down low? Any loose wires, o2 extensions, proximity to plug wires, all that can move around as you drive.

I know that the whole retard thing is vs rpm/map/fuel/temp so there are a lot of factors there.

If it were me (and it has been in the past)
-Check wires/sensor according to shoebox.
-If everything checks ok, change sensor for good measure
-(consider lt4 module if you don't have it-its arguable, but some people swear by it)
-Do the resistor mod

I honestly think mine was a combination of cross talk on the wires and false knock. So many things were going on at once, at least now it will ignore some of the crap. I do still see 1-2* every now and then, which isn't too abnormal with mods, but never does it pull 5-7* like it did before.

Get some 100 gas and see if it goes away if you have any doubt that it could be real knock.

 

Yes, I have a gm847, so I get a good amount of lope at idle. I also have longtubes and my plugwires run under the headers.

However, I started getting this code a few months after I got the cc305 cam and headers. If noise or plug wires is a problem, how come I didn't start getting a code until after a few months?

 

No answer for you, I never really found an answer for mine, just kind of a solution.

 

Thats sucks. I guess I made a little progress today. I mounted the scanner up on the dash so I could read it while I was drving. It seems that the knock retard increases when I accelerate now. It also increases while I'm at idle. The only time it seems to go down to 0* is when I rev it in neutral or when I'm cruising and I get into the gas a little.

Tomorrow, I am finally going to take a volt-meter to it and figure out what the hell is going on. The damn thing is only $30 if I have to replace it. I just can't stand driving it like this anymore.

Also, at first I thought my plug wires were bad, but I noticed that my engine only gets really stumbly when I hit 7* of knock retard. This is so retarded!! Haha, I"m funny, I know. Don't mention it.

 

After I unplugged the knock sensor to see if it made a difference, the car has seemingly run worse since then. Now the SES light stays on most of the time. Very frustrating.