Would someone be so kind as to take a look at my Datamaster log and let me know if theres anything weird going on?

Thanks!

 

Upload it to an FTP site, and post the link.

 

http://www.mediafire.com/?841u1fwnpimva14

Here is the link and some background.

The current tune has the EGR disabled and the air pump disabled. They were causing SES faults.

I also have installed a 160* thermostat and changed the fan on temps to 175 or 180 & 185 or 190. I can't remember for sure which since it was such a long time ago.

As far as true tuning, nothing has been done.

Right now when in a high load/low rpm situation (5th & 6th gear only) if I press the gas it will miss. I think it's just time to change plugs and wires, which will happen tomorrow, but I logged it anyway.

Thanks.

 

Don't see any thing out of wack that would cause a miss. However ODB1 gives very little if any ignition data on logs. Fueling looks good the injector DC peaks in the high 50's. You are running a little lean in the high BLM cells 14 (139 left &140 right) and cell 15 (139 left & 139 right) . I see you are pulling 5-8* of spark retard (knock) during WOT (record 3335) dropping your timing down to 28* at times. But the miss may be causing that. Your EGR is not disabled, you may have shut off the DTC but you are still activating the solenoid and adding timing. Bottom line 1 - the miss is probably ignition HV related (ICM,coil,coil/plug wire,opti rotor, or plugs) very rarely mechanical, but it can happen. Start it up in the dark and visually inspect the HV system for arching. 2 - you could tune the MAF tables to richen out the cell 14 & 15 readings. That and fixing the miss may make the WOT knock retard go away, have you ever done any WOT tuning or changes to the PE AFR tables ?. 3- Disabling the EGR in your tune will prevent adding timing when activated. I'm assuming you actually have the EGR physical stuff deleted ? Good Luck, tell us what you find..

 

No, I don't have the EGR and Air physically removed.

I've never really done anything in the way of true tuning.

Guess I need to start reading up on how and what to tune.

And here I thought I had done something with the changing of the fan on temps and the apparent EGR and Air pump DTC code removal

Thanks

 

Changed plugs and that seemed to take care of the low rpm miss I was having in 5th & 6th gear. I don't doubt it was causing problems though. The electrode looked like the Sharp tip of a needle.

Also found that my exhaust leak is not the flange gasket but the second from the back passenger side exhaust manifold bolt is broken and the 3rd from last was loose enough I took it out with my fingers. I tightened it up. Wonder if that's causing false knock.

 

Odd thing is, at WOT the driver's side O2 sensor is indicating about 100mV leaner than the passenger side O2 sensor. That could be the result of a misfire on the driver's side. But the fact that you have an exhaust leak on the passenger side would usually mean the passenger side LTFT's would be higher than the driver's side. But they are fairly even, although elevated. If its a "true" lean condition on the driver's side, it might explain the large amount of knock retard at WOT.

Maybe you had the misfire on the driver's side elevating the left LTFT and the exhaust leak on the right elevating the right LTFT.