Computer Diagnostics and Tuning Technical discussion on diagnostics and programming of the F-body computers

Datalogged the car and......

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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 02:52 PM
  #1  
95firehawk's Avatar
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Datalogged the car and......

I have no idea what I'm really looking at. Is there anyone out there who is bored and would be willing to look at a Datamaster datalog? I hate "freeloading" but everyone I know is in the same boat as me (actually they are all Ford faithfuls but I try not to hold that against them.)
Is there a website that will "teach" me whats the difference between good and bad readings? Any help will be appreciated.

Last edited by 95firehawk; Jun 27, 2007 at 10:12 AM. Reason: I need to go back to school to learn how to write.
Old Jun 25, 2007 | 12:31 PM
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I recently purchased Autotap, and in that software, there are small blurbs about what each parameter means and what the normal values are.

What parameters are you looking at?
Old Jun 25, 2007 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 95firehawk
I have no idea what I'm really looking at. Is there anyone out there who is bored and would be willing to look at a Datamaster datalog? I hate "freeloading" but everyone I know is in the same boat as me (actually they are all Ford faithfuls but I try not to hold that against them.)
Is there a website that will "teach" me whats the difference between good and bad readings? Any help will be appreciate it.
I'll look at it for ya. Sent you a PM.

Dan
Old Jun 26, 2007 | 05:28 PM
  #4  
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You might want to read this..... might help you understand what you are looking at:

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm
Old Jun 27, 2007 | 10:11 AM
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Thanks for the replies gentlemen. Dan, I sent you an email. Fred, I just found your Scanmaster link right before I saw your reply. Thanks for posting information such as that on the web.
I basically wanted to know just what all those changing numbers mean. Unfortunately after a quick look at Injuneer's site I think I may have a problem or two. My BLM's are stuck at 108 unless I am at WOT. I also noticed that I tripped a TPS low voltage code. I will wait till I here back from Dan before I start another thread on solving these problems. Thanks.

Shaun
Old Jun 27, 2007 | 02:03 PM
  #6  
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Shaun,

You have a reply in your email. The tune looks pretty good actually. Your MAF is just reading 10-15% high most of the time. (you could adjust this with tunercats or LT1 edit) or I could do it for you if you can load a tune. You should reset your trouble codes and see if the TPS low code comes back. It looked fine in the databmaster log. You are getting 4-6 deg of knock retard, which disipates as you rise in rpm. Do you have a LT4 KM?

Dan
Old Jun 27, 2007 | 03:05 PM
  #7  
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I do have an LT4 KM in the car and unfortunately the MAF is descreened but not ported. As for the TPS voltage I haven't noticed anything lately. I've been monitoring the car everyday for the past week and it hasn't seemed to come back since I reset the codes 2 days ago. I was more concerned with the BLM's being "stuck" on 108. Is that normal for the driving conditions that the computer logged them at? When it comes to tuning, I have a laptopand an AKM cable. It is also got the "power tune" from Hypertech installed. I probably need to go out and get LT1edit before you can change the tune though. Thanks again.
Old Jun 27, 2007 | 03:29 PM
  #8  
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Well, the BLM's aren't really stuck at 108. They range between 108 and 123 depending on MAP and RPM. Your PCM adjusts for the MAF reading high in closed loop, but in open loop and PE, it will be off since it uses MAF input but not O2 feedback.

My MAF looked VERY similar to yours. I think it is common with a descreened MAF. I also have mine descreened and unported. My car has always run well without the screen.(6+ years) My BLM's were 108-110 at idle and were somewhere between 108 and 120 depending on MAP and RPM. I adjusted my MAF table and now I am 126-130 everywhere. The car seems to run better (smoother, no popping between shifts when starting cold) with the MAF tables adjusted.

Your tune is pretty good though and a tune isn't going to make a lightyear change. If you go with a cam or heads, then it would make sense to get a cable and tunercats or lt1 edit. It is fun to tweak the engine to run as good as possible.

Dan
Old Jun 28, 2007 | 07:15 AM
  #9  
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Dan,

I just replied to your email. I don't know which media you would prefer to communicate thru so I will use whichever one that's most convenient for you.
I wouldn't mind getting it tuned to get rid of those annoying pops that you have described. I'm going to look into getting LT1edit in the next week or two.
Old Jun 28, 2007 | 09:54 AM
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I replied to your email as well. Tunercats and LT1 Edit are both great options. It think there may also be a flash program written by the Tunercat folks that only allows you to flash a tune, at a lower cost than buying the whole Tunercat program.
I found it. It's called WinFlash
30 day free trial, $20 after that. Pretty good deal since you already have the cable and laptop.

http://www.tunercat.com/tnr_desc/do_tc.html

Let me know if you want me to adjust your tune. You would use this program to read your current flash. Send it to me. I'll tweak it, and you can load it back on.

Dan

Last edited by stereomandan; Jun 28, 2007 at 09:58 AM.
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