Code 43 just says Knock Sensor Circuit. Before I just start replacing parts, how do I determine if it is the knock sensor itself, or the knock module?
Also, I have a slight exhaust leak somewhere at the front of the system that creates that raspy ticking. I could see how that could create false knock readings, but would that trip the SES light into coming on? The tick isn't constant, at least not so you can hear it at idle. It's only under acceleration that you can hear it, though I do know the knock sensor is MUCH more sensitive than my power saw weary ears...

 

Start by ohming out the knock sensor. You didn't mention what year car you have so a 96/97 (odb2) is 100k ohms and any previous year was around 4.9K? (not too sure on this one). To ohm it out just crawl under and take the wire off. The wire pulls off by squeezing on the connector I believe.

Hal

 

Oops, sorry. It's a 94. If I check the sensor for the required resistance and find it is bad, will it show no continuity, or some other resistance value? Could I just run the correct valued resistor in the harness and hope I don't get a batch of bad gas until I get the new sensor? I know some people have done this with a switch so they can run with or without the KS in the loop.
Happen to have a part number or average price for the knock sensor?

 

It could show way more or way less. I've never heard of one going bad. Yes, you could just put a resistor in its place from wire to ground. I think I wound up paying around $35 shipped. No part number but here are a few numbers:

Dal Slabaugh - Van DeVere Olds
lockitup@bright.net

Jason Cromer - Taylor Chevy - 877-726-8295

Sam Smith - Fairway Chevy - 800-395-1440

Hal

 

Dal's Number is 1.800.362.9494

 

ok, here is an update for anyone who cares
I picked up a knock sensor at Autozone for $25.99. They did't have it in stock, but it only took 2 days to come in. Only problem with it was that when it was threaded, the starting thread was not fully formed and it wouldn't catch the threads in the block. I had to use a pipe cutter of all things to finish the thread off. Worked fine.
Oh, one thing, make sure you drain the coolant before pulling the sensor. Guess how I found that out
I put an ohm meter on the old sensor and the new sensor. The new one had 3.9k ohms resistance, the old one had infinite resistance (no continuity).
Once the install was done I got my power and gas mileage back, the SES was gone, etc. Gotta love it. The $25 part was costing me $40 a day in gas!!

 

Ha, ha... yes, you have to be fairly fast with the replacement sensor. Sometimes it will have just enough suction to not drain at all.

Strange to see one of those sensor die, but, mentally archived.

Hal

 

I almost wonder if it died from being over worked (like I keep swearing some day I am gonna do)
I have that exhaust leak at the manifold to Y pipe connection that makes a nice ticking. Probably had that sensor playing hell trying to keep up. Probably still killing some of my power too.
Which has me in my next quandary...fix the leak, or go new exhaust (true duals...mmmm). But then I have to decide if I want to run the duals now, or wait for the LTs. OF course this makes more sense, but it means more money which I don't have...so I am back to the fix the leak for now solution...what a vicious circle