code 43 (esc Module or Sensor circuit problem) i am new at this!
01-10-2007, 12:47 PM
#1
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code 43 (esc Module or Sensor circuit problem) i am new at this!
ok so the car had several codes in it. i have them all written down and are as follows.
13 Left oxygen sensor or circuit
43 esc module or sensor circuit
68 Ac/relay/circut fault
33 map sensor or circuit too high
68 a/c relay shorted
67 a/c pressure sensor/ circuit fault
the pcm did not have a ground and i fixed this last week, coil went bad on me and fixed this yesterday. because of this i figured a lot of the codes were in there so i cleared the codes and this one came back
43 Esc Module or Sensor circuit problem
what does this mean?
i took down some readings before the codes were cleared:
left o2: 350-450mV mainly around 425 closed loop was 651ish
right o2: 540-610mV mainly around 570 closed loop was 800ish
l/r blm was 128
iac pos was 92
mat (f) 91
map (Hg) 19.5-20
map (v) was 3ish
i don't know what this stuff means so help me out please!
thanks, critter
13 Left oxygen sensor or circuit
43 esc module or sensor circuit
68 Ac/relay/circut fault
33 map sensor or circuit too high
68 a/c relay shorted
67 a/c pressure sensor/ circuit fault
the pcm did not have a ground and i fixed this last week, coil went bad on me and fixed this yesterday. because of this i figured a lot of the codes were in there so i cleared the codes and this one came back
43 Esc Module or Sensor circuit problem
what does this mean?
i took down some readings before the codes were cleared:
left o2: 350-450mV mainly around 425 closed loop was 651ish
right o2: 540-610mV mainly around 570 closed loop was 800ish
l/r blm was 128
iac pos was 92
mat (f) 91
map (Hg) 19.5-20
map (v) was 3ish
i don't know what this stuff means so help me out please!
thanks, critter
01-10-2007, 06:22 PM
#2
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01-10-2007, 07:13 PM
#3
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01-11-2007, 09:33 AM
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No, its not the ICM.
And herein lies the main problem of failing to use a "signature" with basic data about the car, including the year, engine, model, tranny, etc. It's completely beyond me that someone can have been on these forums for more than 5 years and not realize that
. Yes, there's a link to Cardomain in the signature, but when I clicked on that, Cardomain was "down for maintnence"
It also shows the risk of using a "generic" code list, rather than the one specific for your car.
From the picture and from the question, and from the signature info you did provide, appears its an OBD-I LT1. For that engine
DTC 43 is "Knock Sensor (KS) circuit"
This is right from Shoebox's website code list for the LT1:
http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm
Very easy to check the knock sensor.
Key on, remove the single wire from the KS and measure the voltage between the wire and the engine block (ground). Should read 5V. If its any less, you have a problem with the wiring or the PCM.
With the wire still disonnected, measure the resistance between the single pin on the KS and the engine block. Should read between 3,500-5,500 ohms (KS spec is 4,400ohm). Outside those limits and the KS is faulty or the ground it bad.
Reconnect the harness to the KS. Measure the voltage from the wire to the engine block. Should be in the range of 1.5 - 3.5V. Outside those limits and the PCM sets DTC 43.
And herein lies the main problem of failing to use a "signature" with basic data about the car, including the year, engine, model, tranny, etc. It's completely beyond me that someone can have been on these forums for more than 5 years and not realize that
. Yes, there's a link to Cardomain in the signature, but when I clicked on that, Cardomain was "down for maintnence"It also shows the risk of using a "generic" code list, rather than the one specific for your car.
From the picture and from the question, and from the signature info you did provide, appears its an OBD-I LT1. For that engine
DTC 43 is "Knock Sensor (KS) circuit"
This is right from Shoebox's website code list for the LT1:
http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm
Very easy to check the knock sensor.
Key on, remove the single wire from the KS and measure the voltage between the wire and the engine block (ground). Should read 5V. If its any less, you have a problem with the wiring or the PCM.
With the wire still disonnected, measure the resistance between the single pin on the KS and the engine block. Should read between 3,500-5,500 ohms (KS spec is 4,400ohm). Outside those limits and the KS is faulty or the ground it bad.
Reconnect the harness to the KS. Measure the voltage from the wire to the engine block. Should be in the range of 1.5 - 3.5V. Outside those limits and the PCM sets DTC 43.
01-11-2007, 09:46 AM
#7
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Location: fort worth/burleson Tx
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year, engine, model, tranny,
cc306, 2900 stall,
well that would mean a4 and lt1, you know its a camaro from the picture and and if with the codes i have listed you know its a OBD-1 because they are not P0100-P1667.
sorry had to do it, i kinda see your point tho.
cc306, 2900 stall,
well that would mean a4 and lt1, you know its a camaro from the picture and and if with the codes i have listed you know its a OBD-1 because they are not P0100-P1667.
sorry had to do it, i kinda see your point tho.
Last edited by Critter; 01-11-2007 at 09:49 AM.
01-11-2007, 09:47 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Location: fort worth/burleson Tx
Posts: 1,513
No, its not the ICM.
And herein lies the main problem of failing to use a "signature" with basic data about the car, including the year, engine, model, tranny, etc. It's completely beyond me that someone can have been on these forums for more than 5 years and not realize that . Yes, there's a link to Cardomain in the signature, but when I clicked on that, Cardomain was "down for maintnence"
It also shows the risk of using a "generic" code list, rather than the one specific for your car.
From the picture and from the question, and from the signature info you did provide, appears its an OBD-I LT1. For that engine
DTC 43 is "Knock Sensor (KS) circuit"
This is right from Shoebox's website code list for the LT1:
http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm
Very easy to check the knock sensor.
Key on, remove the single wire from the KS and measure the voltage between the wire and the engine block (ground). Should read 5V. If its any less, you have a problem with the wiring or the PCM.
With the wire still disonnected, measure the resistance between the single pin on the KS and the engine block. Should read between 3,500-5,500 ohms (KS spec is 4,400ohm). Outside those limits and the KS is faulty or the ground it bad.
Reconnect the harness to the KS. Measure the voltage from the wire to the engine block. Should be in the range of 1.5 - 3.5V. Outside those limits and the PCM sets DTC 43.
And herein lies the main problem of failing to use a "signature" with basic data about the car, including the year, engine, model, tranny, etc. It's completely beyond me that someone can have been on these forums for more than 5 years and not realize that
. Yes, there's a link to Cardomain in the signature, but when I clicked on that, Cardomain was "down for maintnence"It also shows the risk of using a "generic" code list, rather than the one specific for your car.
From the picture and from the question, and from the signature info you did provide, appears its an OBD-I LT1. For that engine
DTC 43 is "Knock Sensor (KS) circuit"
This is right from Shoebox's website code list for the LT1:
http://shbox.com/1/Dtcs.htm
Very easy to check the knock sensor.
Key on, remove the single wire from the KS and measure the voltage between the wire and the engine block (ground). Should read 5V. If its any less, you have a problem with the wiring or the PCM.
With the wire still disonnected, measure the resistance between the single pin on the KS and the engine block. Should read between 3,500-5,500 ohms (KS spec is 4,400ohm). Outside those limits and the KS is faulty or the ground it bad.
Reconnect the harness to the KS. Measure the voltage from the wire to the engine block. Should be in the range of 1.5 - 3.5V. Outside those limits and the PCM sets DTC 43.
Last edited by Critter; 01-11-2007 at 09:49 AM.
01-11-2007, 10:57 PM
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Sorry I had to do it
01-15-2007, 10:26 AM
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01-15-2007, 02:29 PM
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Oh now I'm understanding.
What has obviously happened was he removed the output from the PCM but did not remove the input requirement. So hook up a resistor to the input and get rid of the problem.
And please change your signature to include year of car, type of engine, PCM and other pertinent data. We don't care about your battery or your stereo blah blah blah.
What has obviously happened was he removed the output from the PCM but did not remove the input requirement. So hook up a resistor to the input and get rid of the problem.
And please change your signature to include year of car, type of engine, PCM and other pertinent data. We don't care about your battery or your stereo blah blah blah.
Last edited by Guest47904; 01-16-2007 at 05:38 AM.
01-15-2007, 10:03 PM
#15
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Location: Little Rock, AR
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Avatars or even screen names don't mean jack. When you want help, provide decent info or expect wrong answers or no help. When people assume what you have and are wrong, it wastes everyone's time. When you tick off one of the most knowledgeable and helpful people on the board, you are not doing yourself any favors.