just wanna know if everything is about right on it. thanks.

http://www.filefactory.com/file/f7a8b0/

don't know if that link will work so here is another location for it.

http://s12.quicksharing.com/v/5292948/1st.csv.html

 

Not a lot to be learned from the log. Appears you let the car, already fully warmed up, idle for about 8.4 minutes, sitting stationary almost all the time, and goosed the throttle about 33 times There's not much value in running a log like that, unless you were trying to identify some sort of odball problem.

When its idling, some things are normal, some are a bit odd (looking at a 2.5 minute period of pure idling, frames 4842-7078):

TPS = OK at 0.63 - 0.65V
IAC = OK at 27 - 28 counts
MAP = very healthy/steady at 31 - 33kPa
SPARK ADVANCE = a shade high at 23 - 28* at 800rpm idle. (I'm used to seeing 18-22* with a stock tune)
IDLE SPEED = OK, stable, with variations of no more than +/-25 RPM
AIRFLOW = OK, stable, averaging 7.88 GPS
CELL = OK, since its idling in Cell 16
LONG TERM FUEL TRIM (BLM) = on the low side, 114 left/115 right, indicating the PCM is having to pull 10 - 11% of the standard fuel calculation to keep it at stoichiometric A/F ratio. It would be running rich if the PCM wasn't pulling out fuel.
During the period analyzed, the left and right O2 sensors average 394/408 mV's, where they should be averaging 450mV.
INLET AIR TEMP = heat soaked at 118*F
COOLANT TEMP = OK at 178*F

There are 5 places where the MPH actually goes above zero, indicating the car may have been moving, but at least a couple of them don't make sense. In frame 1365 the MPH jumps from "0" to "14" MPH.... which makes no sens, then drops off. At the same time you have pushed the throttle to 80% and have run the engine up to 5,750RPM. See the inconsitancy in those numbers?

Did you actually drive the car? It appears that the 3 additional locations where the MPH is not equal to "0" lasts for only about one second (frames 1640-1647, 1805-1813, 4721.....etc.)

Is there some particular reason you did what you did, just goosing the throttle, but not actually driving it? You need to get the data under a wide variety of conditions, including normal driving and a WOT pass. Sitting and letting it idle for 8+ minutes it not really useful.

When you do goose the throttle, there is knock retard present. That would only be a problem if it actually shows up under load.

 

that is my first attempt at gettin anything from the car on my laptop. i just wanted to see if the data i collected was useful or not. i'm brand new to this so don't know what is needed for a good data collection. how long should i drive it? and all normal driving or run it hard a couple of times? the car never moved but i have noticed that the speedo jumps sometimes when you rev hard sittin still. don't know why. the pcm is a pcmforless ordered unit so i figured it would be good for the most part but i wanted to see if i could even get a connection and log with the car running. now that i know that it works i will try to collect a better log and post it up. just tell me how i should run the car and i will do it and post the results and thanks for the input injun.

 

Is there a specific problem you are trying to track down, or are you just trying to learn more about how its set up, and how everything works?

I'd recommend a cold start, let it warm up and go into closed loop (usually takes about 200 seconds), then drive it "normally" (not WOT) for a few minutes, varying the RPM and engine load as much as possible. That gets you data for the long term fuel corrections for more cells. Finally, take it through the gears from as low a speed as possible to the highest speed you can safely drive it. Try and cover the entire usable RPM range of the engine in at least one gear.

As far as interpreting the data, look this over:

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm

 

My speedo moves on higher rpm revs, but that is attributed to just splicing the VSS pigtail in when I did my A4 to M6 swap. My theory was that the wires were rubbing back and forth very rapidly (on a very small scale), causing the speedo to move. I was lazy and didn't solder it, which I still need to do.

 

no there isn't a specific problem or anything. only thing i have noticed recently is my mpg has gone down since installing the pcmforless pcm. that is probably just due to the tune being geared for best performance instead of best economy. and i did this tank of gas around town only, no highway driving. i will try doing it the way you suggested injun and then post it up. i'm just new to this part of cars, never had a performance car with a computer before at all. mine has always been old cars. i don't think my speedo issue is the same as yours sweetred. mine is a factory 6spd car. but will check the wires and let you know. probably be later this week before i get a chance to do anything at all with it though.