I have the Mastach cable and it will not pass the Datamaster ALDL test everytime. It will pass the test about 25% of the time. I hook it to my desktop and it will pass 75% of the time.

I tested it with Hyperterminal and that works fine. I have tried com ports 1-4 and turned off IR ports.

I'm at a loss. Anybody have any suggestions?

 

At this point, I'm willing to try anything.
Please, somebody give me a suggestion.

Connecting to the serial port (no USB adapters).
Running Windows XP Pro (SP2)

 

Maybe I can get some feedback this way.

I will Paypal $10 to anyone that can tell me how to fix the problem.
$10, for a minute of your time.

 

Spray brakeclean on the ALDL connector inside your car, use the ALDL connector from your laptop to the ALDL connector inside the car and push it in and out about 10 times, then check your connection.

Please paypal to kendall@akgaming.com

Hehe.

 

I'm so frustrated, I would almost try that.

 

I am dead serious. Im not trying to get you to ruin your cable. I have had to do that 2 times, it just cleans the electrical connections to your aldl port on your car.

 

Rather than brake clean, use a no-flash electrical contact cleaner. But otherwise, I'd be willing to try what he suggested.

However, if you can hook the same cable to a desktop PC and it work 75% of the time, and only disconnect one end (PC end) and connect it to a notebook and it work only 25% of the time, I'd be inclined to think that the problem is in the laptop itself.

Perhaps the serial port has come loose inside the laptop and it's not getting a good connection there? This sort of thing happens to the DC power ports all the time.

 

Ok, I will keep that in mind for future reference. Right now I'm trying to make sure it passes the ALDL test before hooking to my car.

I disabled the USB and that helped some. Now it will pass about 70% of the time and always fails Phase 2 of the test, when it does fail. When before, it would fail any of the 3 phases. "RTS power only" "Timeout error receiving power" is what it says.

LWillman- I really don't want to open the laptop, but I will try this if I can't find anything else. If that turns out to be the problem, I will Paypal you.

 

any update? i got suckered into the "deal on ebay" and can't get the cable to talk to the ecm at all. never had a single problem w/ the akm cable I had for my other project, wishing I hadn't let it go w/ the truck. that cable had to of been about 20' long!

I've thought about seperating the wire pair and twisting the "8192" red wire w/ the ground to see if there is some type of interference getting into the line, or opening up the box to see if the converter is getting enough power, but don't really want to destroy it if i can get my money back. I've disabled everything, tried all different com settings, fifo settings, timing settings, etc etc. i just don't feel this cable would make a reliable connection to program with and not worry about toasting the ecm.

 

No, I never did get it to work with the laptop. The cable works just fine with my 7 year old Pentium desktop that I have in the garage. The laptop must be the problem because the desktop programs and data logs great. I thought about switching the laptop to Windows 98 from XP but the car is retired for the winter and it will have to wait until spring.

 

might have something to do w/ the power of the serial port on the laptop, but that doesn't make much sense either considering i had an akmcables working on it flawlessly and i have an autotap cable that i use all the time w/ no problems. :\

I never received any emails from him so I put up a whiny negative feedback on ebay hoping it would grab his attention, but nope, still haven't heard anything. Might just open up the case and see if i can't figure it out before ordering a akmcable.

 

if there any tech heads subscribed to this post, or anyone in general that's been wanting a data cable, check this out: http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/aldl8192/8192hw.htm

found this doing some searches, going home tonight if I have time and am going to open up the cable to see if it's similar, and may bring a o'scope home from work as well.

 

OH ZIPPIDEE DO DA ZIP DE EE AAAA!!!!! I GOT IT WORKING!!!!! HELL YEAH!!!!!

Got into the box tonight, then removed the masking tape wrapped around it, yea I know, wtf?, then started working the circuit, it is EXACTLY the same circuit as above, only they used 4.7uF caps. I put fired up my voltmeter, plugged in the circuit and immediately found the problem. They must have designed this for old rs232 adapters that were powerful back in the day, cause mine was only putting 3.4v to power pin of the translator, it's a texas instruments RS232N. Min voltage is 4.5v, so there ya go.

I pulled the 10k ohm resistor off the blue wire, pulled the back side of the diodes off the input of the power regulator, tied those ends together, then jumpered a wire from the blue wire (B-Mode Select) over to the input of the power regulator. Then I pushed the blue wire into the +12v pin of the aldl, and bam! 5 volts to the translator, held my breath, plugged it into the laptop, ran the aldl test, EVERYTHING passed, even extended, so I fired up datamaster, passed the test com, got the vin, hit monitor, DAYUM IT'S WORKING!!!! closed datamaster, opened up pcmread, just downloaded the program, now i'm off to do some vats removing, etc etc, thanks to Rafal I've only got 20 days left on tunercat!!

If you all need any help w/ the above, let me know, I would be glad to help!!!