95 OBD1 in 97SS
I did not mention the harness, because it does not need to be changed.
The only difference in the harnesses is the added OBD-II items (well, the coil connector is different, but that is moot when only changing the PCM). An OBD-I computer won't even look for those things.
The only difference in the harnesses is the added OBD-II items (well, the coil connector is different, but that is moot when only changing the PCM). An OBD-I computer won't even look for those things.
I did not mention the harness, because it does not need to be changed.
The only difference in the harnesses is the added OBD-II items (well, the coil connector is different, but that is moot when only changing the PCM). An OBD-I computer won't even look for those things.
The only difference in the harnesses is the added OBD-II items (well, the coil connector is different, but that is moot when only changing the PCM). An OBD-I computer won't even look for those things.
Another question,
When changing the knock sensor, will a stock sensor be ok with a cc 306 cam? I have heard some people running lt4 knock sensors because of cams. I know lt4 is for obd ii but is there something I need for running a cam like this?
When changing the knock sensor, will a stock sensor be ok with a cc 306 cam? I have heard some people running lt4 knock sensors because of cams. I know lt4 is for obd ii but is there something I need for running a cam like this?
There is no such thing as an LT4 knock sensor. The knock sensor is either for OBD-I or II. There is an LT4 knock module, though. You only need it if you are experiencing false knock.
You may want to consider this mod instead of replacing the sensor. Cheaper and will allow both OBDI and OBDII PCMs to work:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...=OBD1+pcm+swap
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...=OBD1+pcm+swap
A 95 knock sensor is about 4k ohms, so a 3.9k ohm resistor does the trick if you want to remove the knock sensor altogether.
The 96-97 knock sensor is about 100k ohms, significantly different... so that's why you would need to solder the 3.9k in to a PCM in order to 'trick' the OBD1 computer to think that the correct sensor is in place.
The 96-97 knock sensor is about 100k ohms, significantly different... so that's why you would need to solder the 3.9k in to a PCM in order to 'trick' the OBD1 computer to think that the correct sensor is in place.
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