View Poll Results: help or advise on subframe connectors on an '81 t-top z28?
weld-in
5
83.33%
bolt-on
0
0%
both
1
16.67%
forget about it
0
0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 6. You may not vote on this poll
subframe connecters-advice?
#1
subframe connecters-advice?
i am currently restoring an '81 z28 with t-tops, and i believe it has sagged badly, as the tops leak and the doors sag badly. i heard installing subframe connectors is the first step to rectifying yhis problem, since t-top models were prone to these problems. if you have any advise, or know anyone who can help me with this, especially in the ne tn area, please let me know. your help is greatly appreciated!
#4
Bolt ons work fine. There are several guys in the LS1 section that race autocross w/bolt on SFCs. Think about it, your suspension is bolted on...why wouldn't it loosen up like some people claim bolt on SFCs do?
Personally, I'd use which ever I got the best deal on.
Personally, I'd use which ever I got the best deal on.
#5
Welded is the way to go...
I have welded-in SFC's, would not have it any other way. Mine are actually custom made by the fabrication shop which installed my 4130 8-point cage, and what they did was actually cut the floor out and weld the square-tubing stock of my SFC's to both the top and bottom of the floor, all the way front to rear. They were also welded in to the front and rear subframes. Let me tell you, this is one stiff car chassis. I've owned 3 2nd gen Z/28's, and my '77 with the above mods is by far the best riding and launching car of the bunch.
Welding in SFC's makes them a permanent part of the frame assembly.
Welding in SFC's makes them a permanent part of the frame assembly.
#7
T-tops have always leaked. Hinges typically wear out causing the doors to sag. (Considering how big 2nd gen doors are... who can blame those poor hinges.) Unless there are severe flex problems with the unibody, don't neccessarily assume subframe connectors will fix the problem.
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