colorchange96

I went to Best Buy today to check out some speakers for my T/A and picked up some strange information. The guy that worked there told me i had to replace all the speakers if i wanted to fix the blown door speakers. He said something about it being a MONSOON system that they are weird and if you just hook up any old speaker it wont work. I obviously dont know **** about car audio and would like some advice. The big speakers in both doors sound pretty distorted. Seems to be only on bass though. the rear speakers are ok though. Someone point me in the right direction before i spend way too much money on this.

nothingeined

Good luck on that. Your speakers work at 2 ohms to produce more power. Most aftermarket speakers are rated at 4 ohms. Ohms is the level of resistance the speaker has. Of course the lower the ohm the better the sound I heard. You can put the 4 ohm ones but you will have half the sound and not enough connections to run the new speaker. Look for a post by Rogue Leader I believe was the members name. He found a set of speakers that would work perfect with the Monsoon on a Firebird and still get good sound. Or you could just pull everything and run an aftermarket setup. I found a used Monsoon speaker from a member for 25 bucks shipped. You could use that as a temporary fix till you save enough to switch out the whole thing. Just do a search on door speakers and you will see all the options you have a bit better explanation.

colorchange96

thanks man. ill have plenty of time to think this over while im in iraq.

pardonme2711

dont buy from best buy though all the stuff there u can pretty much find online for about half the cost.

GSteg

what size are they and how much can you spend?

at 4ohm, you'll be getting less power than at 2ohm, theoretically. And aftermarket speakers are not sensitive as OEM, so volume will suffer substantially.

If you need 6 3/4" speakers, let me know. I'm selling a pair anyways.

colorchange96

i dont know what size they are its the 2 big ones in the door. you know the ones by your feet with the door closed. i really dont know anything about car audio. are the ones your selling monsoon?

MustangEater82

HAs anyone put 4 ohm speakers in?

Hwo much queiter are they? IF I were to put replacement Monsson door speakers, I woudl probably run the balance more towards the rear in fear of blowing them again, or I coudl jsut have some speakers that are not quit as loud and have them cranked up as much as I want.

nothingeined

Suffers pretty bad with the four ohms. My put some aftermarket ones on Friday. Heard them this morning and you have to have it pretty cranked to get some decent volume going. Since it is too loud, the rest of the other speakers clip becuase of it. Not recommended. Here is a an excerpt I grabbed from another website done by tuffluck on what you could do and not have to rewire everything:

all i will explain is the technicalities of how the door speakers work. factory speakers are 2-way coaxial speakers at 2 ohms. the midbass portion of the speaker is powered by the amp. the amp filters out highs/lows and only permits mids to go to that portion of the speaker. the tweeters located in the center of the speaker do NOT go to the amp in the rear of the car. instead, they go directly to the head unit.

the connector that plugs into the speakers has 4 wires going into it. the blue/light blue wires hook into the midbass of the speaker, and run to the amp. the other 2 go to the tweeter in the speaker, and to the head unit of the car. MAKE NOTE OF THIS BEFORE YOU CUT THE CONNECTOR OFF OF THE SPEAKER. there is only one connection, and it connects all components of the speaker together. in other words, unless you remember which wires go to the tweeter or which to the mid (also remember the blue/light blue wires go to the amp), you will have a damn difficult time using the connector. and trust me, you don't want to cut the connectors off and splice wires. if you do that, you'll end up wishing you hadn't for several reasons; two of those reasons include lack of space to work, and inability to convert to stock easily in the future.

i used the same speakers that rogue leader did for the door speakers. the alpine's fit perfectly in the plastic casing for the door speakers - i would highly recommend these speakers because they were much easier in every aspect than other aftermarket speakers are, and i'll get to more reasons later on. i paid $97 after tax for these speakers at circuit city, where i could have gotten them online for $75 shipped. i paid more because i could go back to circuit city if i had a problem, whereas if i had bought them online, it's hard to get help. these speakers have one connection on the back of them - a negative and a positive. at this connection, both the negative/positive from the midbass and tweeter meet. this is where the work comes in.

the tweeters have a negative that connects directly onto a metal prong. the tweeter positive connects to a small capacitor (to allow NO bass or mid frequencies to reach the tweeter - if that happens, the tweet will blow - so don't leave this capacitor out of the loop!!), and then the capacitor connects to the other metal prong. what you do is clip the connection where the metal prong meets the capacitor, and likewise for the negative end of the tweeter. this is another reason that the alpine's are good speakers for this feat because they are pretty easy to dissect the wiring from, and trust me, this is a very important aspect.

now, take the long set of wires that you will have to cut from your old speaker connector and connect them. for the capacitor, i had little room to work with, so i used an actual connector. for the negative end, i had to get scissors (the wire is SUPER small) to cut the plastic casing off so that i could just old-fashion twist it together with another wire. on your same connection, use the shorter set of wires to connect the midbass portion of the speaker (the regular terminals). i used connectors for these as well. when you are finished, tape everything up well. you are finished. the first speaker i did took me quite a while to do, but the second speaker took 15 minutes or so at most. it's pretty simple, but it's tedious, and you must be careful or you can possibly destroy your brand new speaker.

when i was finished, i was pretty impressed. even at the highest volume level and at 2 ohms, the distortion was so minimal it was nearly nonexistent. the stock speakers begin distorting pretty quickly, and you don't even want to have ears by the time you get to the highest sound level it sounds so bad. it wasn't that way with the alpine's at all, and hopefully no one listens to their music that loud anyway. at regular volumes, the sound is fantastic. these are the only speakers i have in my car that aren't stock. eventually i'll get the rockford fosgate subs and put in the rear of my car. if you want a good system, but don't want to spend a large sum of money, go to circuit city and buy these speakers, come home and follow these instructions, and i think you'll be pretty impressed with the rise in quality in your system.

Once again done by tuffluck. I could not post a link to the other site because it did not work.

Tim89Rs

Well if your interested........

im selling two pairs of 6.5's

(2)Kenwood 3-way 200watt peak max 6.5's
and......
(2) Audiobahn 3-way 200 watt peak 6.5's

both are new in the box never opened. i got these for christmas for my old honda accord, but sold that car already.

so lets say...... $65 plus shipping(your choice of speaker brand, either the kenwoods or audiobahns)

anyone interested, either pm me or email at TAJ5944@aol.com


thanks!
Tim89Rs