can someone explain bridging?!?
can someone explain bridging?!?
im new to the whole car audio and im in the process of puting together a sub/amp combo. i am going with an 10" alpine S in a stealth box.
now my question...... which amp???
i dont really understand "bridging" i mean i understand but how is it done? i was going to go with a mono amp, but now im thinking about going with a 2 channel amp.
choices so far.... us acoustics USB-2150 or Kenwood KAC-7210.
which would be best for the single 10" alpine?? or if anyone has any other advice?!
thanks!
now my question...... which amp???
i dont really understand "bridging" i mean i understand but how is it done? i was going to go with a mono amp, but now im thinking about going with a 2 channel amp.
choices so far.... us acoustics USB-2150 or Kenwood KAC-7210.
which would be best for the single 10" alpine?? or if anyone has any other advice?!
thanks!
Spend a few dollars more on the sub and get the Alpine Type R dual 2 ohm sub. This is model SWR-1021D.
Then get the US Acoustics USX 600 D.
Wire it to a 4 ohm load. As shown here.
That sub is rated to handle 300W RMS and the amp is rated to put out 250W RMS at 4ohms with 12.9 volts.
The USX 600 D can be found here for $174.99.
The SWR-1021D can be found here for $99.95
That is a great deal for $275 plus shipping but as always, check Ebay. You may be able to find better prices there on used or even new equipment.
Good luck!
Then get the US Acoustics USX 600 D.
Wire it to a 4 ohm load. As shown here.
That sub is rated to handle 300W RMS and the amp is rated to put out 250W RMS at 4ohms with 12.9 volts.
The USX 600 D can be found here for $174.99.
The SWR-1021D can be found here for $99.95
That is a great deal for $275 plus shipping but as always, check Ebay. You may be able to find better prices there on used or even new equipment.
Good luck!
Search Ebay for "bp600.1" That amp will give you the most power for your money. 600WRMSx1@2ohms. Get the dual 2 ohm version of the Alpine for now. Wire the voice coils in series for a 4 ohm load. Your subwoofer will be getting 300WRMS with this amp. THEN if you ever want to upgrade, just buy another dual 2 ohm Alpine. Wire it's voice coils in series just as you did with the first one and then wire the two subs together in parallel. This will give you a 2 ohm load on the amp. Meaning it will output the full 600WRMS. (300 to each of your subs)
Originally posted by firebirdude
Search Ebay for "bp600.1" That amp will give you the most power for your money. 600WRMSx1@2ohms. Get the dual 2 ohm version of the Alpine for now. Wire the voice coils in series for a 4 ohm load. Your subwoofer will be getting 300WRMS with this amp. THEN if you ever want to upgrade, just buy another dual 2 ohm Alpine. Wire it's voice coils in series just as you did with the first one and then wire the two subs together in parallel. This will give you a 2 ohm load on the amp. Meaning it will output the full 600WRMS. (300 to each of your subs)
Search Ebay for "bp600.1" That amp will give you the most power for your money. 600WRMSx1@2ohms. Get the dual 2 ohm version of the Alpine for now. Wire the voice coils in series for a 4 ohm load. Your subwoofer will be getting 300WRMS with this amp. THEN if you ever want to upgrade, just buy another dual 2 ohm Alpine. Wire it's voice coils in series just as you did with the first one and then wire the two subs together in parallel. This will give you a 2 ohm load on the amp. Meaning it will output the full 600WRMS. (300 to each of your subs)
If I had to break down what bridging an amp was into simple everyday terms I'd say it like this. This isn't all that technical since I will admit I only understand the basics of how it works myself.
Bridging is basically using the two channels of the amp in a push and pull configuration.
Lets say you have an amp that pushes 10 volts AC into 4 ohms per channel. Okay, so, if the amp is pushing 10 volts into 4 ohms that's 25 watts a channel. (50 watts total) (to figure watts it's voltaged squared and then divide by the impedance - in this case, 10 squared is 100 and divided by 4 it's 25 watts)
Now, if you run the amp into a 2 ohm per channel load that same 10 volts at 2 ohms is now pushing 50 watts a channel. (100 watts total)
With that in mind, if you bridge that two channel amp into a 4 ohm mono load then you'd be doing the following:
Taking the 10 volts from one channel to push effectively and the 10 volts from the other channel to pull. These aren't technical terms by any means but the difference between having a +10 volts and a -10 volts is 20 volts.
With 20 volts and a 4 ohm load you now have 100 watts being fed to the sub you have hooked up bridged mono.
Hope this helps and if not, check out the site that is linked above for it's got some good stuff to read about on there!
Ted
BTW - Unless later on you are thinking of maybe usign the two channel amp for something else, like your front stage etc..., the mono block class D amps seem to be the best bang for the buck and in most cases put out good power for the money.
Bridging is basically using the two channels of the amp in a push and pull configuration.
Lets say you have an amp that pushes 10 volts AC into 4 ohms per channel. Okay, so, if the amp is pushing 10 volts into 4 ohms that's 25 watts a channel. (50 watts total) (to figure watts it's voltaged squared and then divide by the impedance - in this case, 10 squared is 100 and divided by 4 it's 25 watts)
Now, if you run the amp into a 2 ohm per channel load that same 10 volts at 2 ohms is now pushing 50 watts a channel. (100 watts total)
With that in mind, if you bridge that two channel amp into a 4 ohm mono load then you'd be doing the following:
Taking the 10 volts from one channel to push effectively and the 10 volts from the other channel to pull. These aren't technical terms by any means but the difference between having a +10 volts and a -10 volts is 20 volts.
With 20 volts and a 4 ohm load you now have 100 watts being fed to the sub you have hooked up bridged mono.
Hope this helps and if not, check out the site that is linked above for it's got some good stuff to read about on there!
Ted
BTW - Unless later on you are thinking of maybe usign the two channel amp for something else, like your front stage etc..., the mono block class D amps seem to be the best bang for the buck and in most cases put out good power for the money.
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