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Anyone using 6.5's?

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Old Sep 1, 2003 | 11:15 AM
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Myxtreme1's Avatar
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From: Shreveport, LA
Anyone using 6.5's?

Aren't the door speakers in the 93 and up 6.75's? Anyone using 6.5's to replace them? I don't see why it wouldn't work with a little modification.
Old Sep 2, 2003 | 01:14 PM
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A ton of people use 6.5"s. Some require no modifications. Depends on the mounting ring.
Old Sep 2, 2003 | 04:44 PM
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Thanks
Old Sep 3, 2003 | 12:38 PM
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What about the impedence. Aren't the old door speakers 2 OHMs and the replacements 4 OHMs? What happens if you don't match up ?
Old Sep 3, 2003 | 01:08 PM
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Originally posted by coolgenner
What about the impedence. Aren't the old door speakers 2 OHMs and the replacements 4 OHMs? What happens if you don't match up ?
Yes, for those with the monsoon system, the stock speakers are 2 ohm.
Old Sep 3, 2003 | 01:13 PM
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What happens if you try to replace it with a 4 OHM speaker?
Old Sep 3, 2003 | 01:19 PM
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Originally posted by coolgenner
What happens if you try to replace it with a 4 OHM speaker?
The speaker will only get half the power. Also, the stock amp has built in passive crossovers. They may not be set to the best frequency for the aftermarket speakers you choose.
Old Sep 3, 2003 | 04:09 PM
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So it sounds like it is better to stick with stock speakers unless you want to replace the HU at the same time.

Thanks for the input. I have a blown front speaker and almost bought the wrong thing!
Old Sep 3, 2003 | 05:50 PM
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Will I have to remove the door panels to get to them?
Old Sep 3, 2003 | 09:23 PM
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Originally posted by coolgenner
So it sounds like it is better to stick with stock speakers unless you want to replace the HU at the same time.
No. I think you meant unless you want to replace the AMP at the same time. The amp is the culprit.
Will I have to remove the door panels to get to them?
yes. Sorry. If you need info on that, lemme know.
Old Sep 3, 2003 | 10:14 PM
  #11  
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Originally posted by firebirdude
No. I think you meant unless you want to replace the AMP at the same time. The amp is the culprit.
yes. Sorry. If you need info on that, lemme know.
Yeh I will probably need a quick walk-through on it. I don't think I have ever removed panels with electric switches.
Old Sep 3, 2003 | 11:54 PM
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Originally posted by Myxtreme1
Yeh I will probably need a quick walk-through on it. I don't think I have ever removed panels with electric switches.
1. Remove the 1 screw holding the plastic triangle piece by the side mirror. That piece will just pop off.

2. Pop off the door lock indicator. Can be a little tricky but it just pops off.

3. Remove the 3 big screws. 2 are in the arm rest area. The 3rd is under the handle you grab to close the door. It is kind of angled upwards. I believe the firebirds may also have a 4th big screw at the bottom of the door panel near the map holder area.

4. Remove the black plastic trim that goes around the handle and holds the switches. To do this remove the screw behind the handle and the screw angled upward near where the 3rd big screw was in step 3. Pop the piece loose enough to reach behind it and unplug the wiring harnesses. Some people like to pop out the smaller plastic piece that holds the switches first but I like to leave it in as the clips tend not to go back on as tight. Once the harnesses are unplugged you can remove the piece by twisting it to clear the door handle.

5. Now the door panel is ready to come off. It lifts up and out...not straight out. It has "j" hooks molded as part of the door panel and if you try to pull the door panel straight out you'll break the hooks making it impossible to keep the panel secure. It may be a little tight to move it up at first. I prefer to grab the panel near the weathestripping at the top of the door and pull it up and out just enough to unhook it from the top part of the door frame. This then gives you a good place to pull the rest of the panel up.

6. Installation is the opposite.
Old Sep 4, 2003 | 06:13 AM
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2. Pop off the door lock indicator. Can be a little tricky but it just pops off.


Yeah, kind of tricky. Helps if you can get a tiny scredriver behind the end of the thumb tab and pop it off towards you. It just sits on an L shaped rod behind it.

I know it doesn't help now, but it will all make sense once it is off...
Old Sep 4, 2003 | 06:16 AM
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[B]No. I think you meant unless you want to replace the AMP at the same time. The amp is the culprit.

Thanks for clearing that up.
Ok last noob question - does the 94 have the amp too? It doesn't matter in my case since I am just replacing with a stock door speaker again. If I do have the amp - where is it located please?

Thanks. (from a guy who swapped a cassette HU for a CD HU and thought he did some major electrical work LOL)

Rusty
Old Sep 4, 2003 | 01:09 PM
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Originally posted by coolgenner
Ok last noob question - does the 94 have the amp too? It doesn't matter in my case since I am just replacing with a stock door speaker again. If I do have the amp - where is it located please?
Depends if your car came with the monsoon system. I have a 96. But no amp. That was a good thing since I was replacing everything anyway. The amp is located on the passeneger side rear section. Very close to the spare tire. Small 8"x12"x1" black box.
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