I would like opinions on the following questions

Here goes:
Who has changed the torque arm?
What improvements did you see?
What make?
Why did you choose that make?
Whats important about the adjustable angle of the TA?
Does the TA have bushings?
I read somewhere that some TA's can rip the floor when they mount - is this true?

Who has changed the bushing on the transmission?
What improvements did you see?

Thanks for your help.

 

I replaced the TA on my '92 Z with a Spohn unit. The results will be the same on your '99. I liked Spohn because it changed the front mount location from the tranny to the trans X-member plus you get a beefier X-member, plus the TA just looks better made. The TA attaches to the X-member with a rotator bracket with a poly bushing or a spherical bearing (my choice) on the TA and a poly bushing at the X-member. The poly bushing is probably quieter than the spherical bearing on the TA side. The pinion angle is critical with any rear axle so pay attention to the adjustment or vibrations will result. I don't believe it is possible for Steve Spohns TA to rip through the floor, you would have to see this thing, a work of art, and heavy duty. Oh and also it can be had with front and rear drive shaft loops a real plus considering some of us still (at least for now) have the factory POS drive shaft. My Z tends to plant the rear tires better and braking is even better less nose dive. Coming out of a turn the car plants and is much more stable less tail wagging.

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92BLKL98
'92 Black Z28 Hardtop w/Harwood 2" cowl ind. hood, Modded 700R4, MSD
Ignition, March Underdrives, TPIS Fastpak, Ram air w/gutted filter box, SLP Prom, Flowmaster, & free mods, removed cats, Amsoil synthetic lubes, CE SFC's, Edelbrock STB,Spohn TA,Roadtech LCA's and Panhard Rod, Energy Susp., PST polygraphite bushings, KYB Shocks.

[This message has been edited by 92BLKL98 (edited September 04, 2002).]

 

I also have a Spohn TA. I get a lot of driveline noise now, as in I can hear my rear diff spin down when stopping and its pretty loud at speed too. It plants very well, but it will also give you very bad rear wheel hop when braking hard (shorter arms will do this). I think if I were to redo it I would go with LGMotorsports. I think its the best for RoadRacing, but its SO EXPENSIVE. I have the $$$ but its hard to fork out that much for something that costs $80 to build...

--Kevin

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'96 Z-28
79k Miles
Toyo RA1 275/45Z17, SLP Coated Headers, SLP Clutch and Flywheel, G2 Coilovers (Bilstein and Eibach), LS1 Driveshaft, G2 PowerPulley, G2 CAI, B&M Ripper, G2 Pedal Covers, TB Airfoil, Borla 3" catback, G2 Panhard Rod (adj. w/ rodends), G2 Subframe Connectors, G2 Enginebay Brace (4 point), G2 Swaybars, Poly Trans Mount, Autopower 'Race' rollbar, Spacro 5 point harness, Driver & Passenger Sparco Evo2 Seats, Powerslot Rotors w/ PFC Pads, Stainless Steel Brake lines, ACES SureShift2 Seq. Shift Light, Spohn Torque arm, LCA(rod/poly) and relocation bracket, McEwen White Gauge Faces.
On order: McCord Power Plate cutout, LG Spoiler and stripe, and ScanMasterLT1
Just a few parts away from my ZR-28

 

Wow auto-Xer I've not heard of the rear wheel hopping. My Z has no hop what so ever and I've been real hard on the brakes. The only problem (no big deal to me) is the harshness of the trans shifts but that's probably due to the direct attach to the chassis.
From the sig you have a super ride. How is it on the track?
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92BLKL98
'92 Black Z28 Hardtop w/Harwood 2" cowl ind. hood, Modded 700R4, MSD
Ignition, March Underdrives, TPIS Fastpak, Ram air w/gutted filter box, SLP Prom, Flowmaster, & free mods, removed cats, Amsoil synthetic lubes, CE SFC's, Edelbrock STB,Spohn TA,Roadtech LCA's and Panhard Rod, Energy Susp., PST polygraphite bushings, KYB Shocks.

[This message has been edited by 92BLKL98 (edited September 04, 2002).]

 

Thanks guys.

Come on, lets have some more

 

Well I never really had a problem with wheel hop that much on my car, maybe it was just the 1LE setup I don't know. I did the LG TQ Arm after I had done subframes, LCA's, Panhard and GrandSports. I thought it helped out quite a bit. It wasn't noisey at all. It really doesn't weigh anything and fits really nicely.

The one thing I did notice was that I did have some problems with the car hopping when I would try and back up a slight hill (like out of a driveway or at a parking garage), but after the LG arm that completely went away.

Why did I go with the LG? I didn't like the shorter arms for a couple of reasons. One I had seen some problems with the shorter ones on drag cars and how they had tore out the floor of the car...didn't even want to risk it even though everyone of them was on slicks when they did it. Second, the only other arm I had looked at was the GW unit, and its freakin huge. A friend of mine has it on his car and it weighs a ton and takes up pretty much all of the room under the car. Lastly the LG arm went more along the lines of how GM designed the car, and their design works. The one thing that makes it work even better is the front point, and there is no binding at all or friction like on the factory rubber/poly sandwitch bushings.

Since then I have done a lot more stuff to the car (LG coil overs, GW uppers....) so its kinda hard for me to remember exactly how it was different when the car was mostly stock.

If I had it to do all over again I would do the LG arm again. Especially when they have sales from time to time.