SWITCHED TO POWERSLOTS... STOPPING WORSE?????
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 108
From: Fremont, CA
SWITCHED TO POWERSLOTS... STOPPING WORSE?????
I just put powerslots on the front of my car. Now it seems that the car stopped better with the stock rotors. I am running Hawk HPS pads. Is this normal? All input is greatly appreciated.
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Black 1994 Z28, M6 conversion complete. Eibach Pro-kit, Bilstiens, Chrome 17x11 ZR1 rims, LS1 Brake Upgrade, K&N CAI, AS&M Headers, High-flow Cat, B&B Tri-Flo W/ Quad Tips, Cutout, B&M Ripper, McLeod Street Twin, Kenny Brown DD Subframes, More to come...
There Goes the Neighborhood!!!
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Black 1994 Z28, M6 conversion complete. Eibach Pro-kit, Bilstiens, Chrome 17x11 ZR1 rims, LS1 Brake Upgrade, K&N CAI, AS&M Headers, High-flow Cat, B&B Tri-Flo W/ Quad Tips, Cutout, B&M Ripper, McLeod Street Twin, Kenny Brown DD Subframes, More to come...
There Goes the Neighborhood!!!
Registered User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 136
From: Stuart, FL USA
What do you mean by worse?
Are rotors warped and pulsing? - Have them turned.
If the rotors are coated with zinc, cadmium, etc, have you given it time to wear off? - Give it some more time.
Have you been braking too hard before you "seasoned the rotors" or "bedded the pads" gradually. - Have the rotors turned again.
If the previous is ok, your replacement pads may have a different rate of grab for a given temperature. It is common for cold performance pads to have less grip when cold. They need more heat to perform equally, but grip like crazy, when they are really warmed up.
On a negative note: I found Performance Friction Z-pads to chew-up my stock 10.9" mini-rotors for breakfast, even on the street. My replacement Powerslots did better, but warped after a year of moderate street driving too. I did not get relief until going with BAER GT Plus 13.15"x1.25" C5 caliper brakes.
Are rotors warped and pulsing? - Have them turned.
If the rotors are coated with zinc, cadmium, etc, have you given it time to wear off? - Give it some more time.
Have you been braking too hard before you "seasoned the rotors" or "bedded the pads" gradually. - Have the rotors turned again.
If the previous is ok, your replacement pads may have a different rate of grab for a given temperature. It is common for cold performance pads to have less grip when cold. They need more heat to perform equally, but grip like crazy, when they are really warmed up.
On a negative note: I found Performance Friction Z-pads to chew-up my stock 10.9" mini-rotors for breakfast, even on the street. My replacement Powerslots did better, but warped after a year of moderate street driving too. I did not get relief until going with BAER GT Plus 13.15"x1.25" C5 caliper brakes.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 108
From: Fremont, CA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by I CORNER:
What do you mean by worse?
Are rotors warped and pulsing? - Have them turned.
If the rotors are coated with zinc, cadmium, etc, have you given it time to wear off? - Give it some more time.
Have you been braking too hard before you "seasoned the rotors" or "bedded the pads" gradually. - Have the rotors turned again.
If the previous is ok, your replacement pads may have a different rate of grab for a given temperature. It is common for cold performance pads to have less grip when cold. They need more heat to perform equally, but grip like crazy, when they are really warmed up.
On a negative note: I found Performance Friction Z-pads to chew-up my stock 10.9" mini-rotors for breakfast, even on the street. My replacement Powerslots did better, but warped after a year of moderate street driving too. I did not get relief until going with BAER GT Plus 13.15"x1.25" C5 caliper brakes.</font>
What do you mean by worse?
Are rotors warped and pulsing? - Have them turned.
If the rotors are coated with zinc, cadmium, etc, have you given it time to wear off? - Give it some more time.
Have you been braking too hard before you "seasoned the rotors" or "bedded the pads" gradually. - Have the rotors turned again.
If the previous is ok, your replacement pads may have a different rate of grab for a given temperature. It is common for cold performance pads to have less grip when cold. They need more heat to perform equally, but grip like crazy, when they are really warmed up.
On a negative note: I found Performance Friction Z-pads to chew-up my stock 10.9" mini-rotors for breakfast, even on the street. My replacement Powerslots did better, but warped after a year of moderate street driving too. I did not get relief until going with BAER GT Plus 13.15"x1.25" C5 caliper brakes.</font>
Any more ideas????
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Black 1994 Z28, M6 conversion complete. Eibach Pro-kit, Bilstiens, Chrome 17x11 ZR1 rims, LS1 Brake Upgrade, K&N CAI, AS&M Headers, High-flow Cat, B&B Tri-Flo W/ Quad Tips, Cutout, B&M Ripper, McLeod Street Twin, Kenny Brown DD Subframes, More to come...
There Goes the Neighborhood!!!
[This message has been edited by FRDEATR (edited August 30, 2002).]
Registered User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 136
From: Stuart, FL USA
I started to use the Powerslots in the rear with no problem with my old small front brakes (still using them with upgrade front brakes). I noticed that I had to give them several hundred miles of break-in to remove the plating (that powerslot normally puts on their rotors) before they broke-in right. BAER directs that until the plating is worn off, that you cannot properly season the rotors or bed the pads. Don't know what else to suggest.
I hope it works out for you.
Rick R
I hope it works out for you.
Rick R
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 108
From: Fremont, CA
Does this mean I'm screwed cause I raced on 'em? Or should I just give them time to wear? All help is appreciated. Thanks,
Brian
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Black 1994 Z28, M6 conversion complete. Eibach Pro-kit, Bilstiens, Chrome 17x11 ZR1 rims, LS1 Brake Upgrade, K&N CAI, AS&M Headers, High-flow Cat, B&B Tri-Flo W/ Quad Tips, Cutout, B&M Ripper, McLeod Street Twin, Kenny Brown DD Subframes, More to come...
There Goes the Neighborhood!!!
Brian
------------------
Black 1994 Z28, M6 conversion complete. Eibach Pro-kit, Bilstiens, Chrome 17x11 ZR1 rims, LS1 Brake Upgrade, K&N CAI, AS&M Headers, High-flow Cat, B&B Tri-Flo W/ Quad Tips, Cutout, B&M Ripper, McLeod Street Twin, Kenny Brown DD Subframes, More to come...
There Goes the Neighborhood!!!
Registered User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 136
From: Stuart, FL USA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by FRDEATR:
Does this mean I'm screwed cause I raced on 'em? Or should I just give them time to wear? All help is appreciated. Thanks,
Brian
</font>
Does this mean I'm screwed cause I raced on 'em? Or should I just give them time to wear? All help is appreciated. Thanks,
Brian
</font>
Rick R
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 172
According to Powerslot, you gave up 4% of your swept area if you got their slotted rotors. If you got their slotted and dimpled rotors, then you gave up even more area. I don't know if you would feel that. What you are probably experiencing is a lack of carbon transfer to the rotor (not yet seasoned), or a non-synergistic combination of your pad and the different rotor alloy. I used Porterfield R4 pads for 5 years of street and track driving. Over 60,000 miles on my original set of front rotors (and over $1000 of Porterfield pads). I changed to a different rotor, but kept using the R4 pad. After seasoning and 2 months of street driving, I went to a track weekend and wore down the new rotors. They didn't crack or warp, just wore to the replacement tollerance. Andy Porterfield said that it was an unfavorable interaction between the alloy used in my (cheaper) replacement rotors and his pads. I tried to use them some more, but they just didn't feel right; they simply didn't work together.
Bob Bishop
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lateapex@charter.net
'94 Z28 with C5 front brakes and other road racing stuff
Bob Bishop
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lateapex@charter.net
'94 Z28 with C5 front brakes and other road racing stuff
Guest
Posts: n/a
I feel your pain. My first upgrade was to Powerslot rotors and Performance Friction pads. I was very unhappy with the performance. Once I had to come to an abrupt stop and the car didn't. The braking has and still is very gradual. My father's 95 Ford Thunderbird bites like crazy whereas my car requires I push real hard to get it to stop quickly. I bled the brakes also but did not improve anything. I do have piece of mind to some degree though as they do stop the car but I don't quite understand why they don't stick better. Next time I will go with some proven performance brakes/pads.
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95z A4 3.23 89K
In order of install: PSlot rotors/PF pads, Flowmaster CB, Moroso CAI, descreened MAF, TB bypass, BMR STB, GMS LCA, 1LE sway bars w/Prothane Bushings, BMR SFC, cutout, BMR PHR
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95z A4 3.23 89K
In order of install: PSlot rotors/PF pads, Flowmaster CB, Moroso CAI, descreened MAF, TB bypass, BMR STB, GMS LCA, 1LE sway bars w/Prothane Bushings, BMR SFC, cutout, BMR PHR
Registered User
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 117
From: Sterling, VA
Ive been here before! heehee
I 'upgraded' to powerslots and Performance Friction Z Rated pads and it was much worse than stock. As in the ABS could not engauge at all... First off your old pads are shaped for your old rotors, so only a % of them are touching the new rotors, and this will break in your rotors funny as well. I got new pads with mine, but they combo was awful. I upgraded my pads to Hawk HP+ and now I break so hard I get rearwheel hop
and the abs freaks out on me like it should (as in it kicks in because I brake hard enough to lock). The rear hop is because of my choice in torque arm. Bad choice for RR.. Anyway, my suggestion is to throw some new pads on there ASAP. I've heard nothing good about the Zrated Performace Friction (there others might be ok). The Hawk HP+ is above the HPS and is fine for streetability (Stock on the Z06). The might squeek a little when they are warmed up and you 'half brake' (as in not a hard stop and not a light one will squeek, if you press harder or lift it goes away...). I'm very happy with them now.
--Kevin
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'96 Z-28
79k Miles
Toyo RA1 275/45Z17, SLP Coated Headers, SLP Clutch and Flywheel, G2 Coilovers (Bilstein and Eibach), LS1 Driveshaft, G2 PowerPulley, G2 CAI, B&M Ripper, G2 Pedal Covers, TB Airfoil, Borla 3" catback, G2 Panhard Rod (adj. w/ rodends), G2 Subframe Connectors, G2 Enginebay Brace (4 point), G2 Swaybars, Poly Trans Mount, Autopower 'Race' rollbar, Spacro 5 point harness, Driver & Passenger Sparco Evo2 Seats, Powerslot Rotors w/ PFC Pads, Stainless Steel Brake lines, ACES SureShift2 Seq. Shift Light, Spohn Torque arm, LCA(rod/poly) and relocation bracket, McEwen White Gauge Faces.
On order: McCord Power Plate cutout, LG Spoiler and stripe, and ScanMasterLT1
Just a few parts away from my ZR-28
I 'upgraded' to powerslots and Performance Friction Z Rated pads and it was much worse than stock. As in the ABS could not engauge at all... First off your old pads are shaped for your old rotors, so only a % of them are touching the new rotors, and this will break in your rotors funny as well. I got new pads with mine, but they combo was awful. I upgraded my pads to Hawk HP+ and now I break so hard I get rearwheel hop
and the abs freaks out on me like it should (as in it kicks in because I brake hard enough to lock). The rear hop is because of my choice in torque arm. Bad choice for RR.. Anyway, my suggestion is to throw some new pads on there ASAP. I've heard nothing good about the Zrated Performace Friction (there others might be ok). The Hawk HP+ is above the HPS and is fine for streetability (Stock on the Z06). The might squeek a little when they are warmed up and you 'half brake' (as in not a hard stop and not a light one will squeek, if you press harder or lift it goes away...). I'm very happy with them now.--Kevin
------------------
'96 Z-28
79k Miles
Toyo RA1 275/45Z17, SLP Coated Headers, SLP Clutch and Flywheel, G2 Coilovers (Bilstein and Eibach), LS1 Driveshaft, G2 PowerPulley, G2 CAI, B&M Ripper, G2 Pedal Covers, TB Airfoil, Borla 3" catback, G2 Panhard Rod (adj. w/ rodends), G2 Subframe Connectors, G2 Enginebay Brace (4 point), G2 Swaybars, Poly Trans Mount, Autopower 'Race' rollbar, Spacro 5 point harness, Driver & Passenger Sparco Evo2 Seats, Powerslot Rotors w/ PFC Pads, Stainless Steel Brake lines, ACES SureShift2 Seq. Shift Light, Spohn Torque arm, LCA(rod/poly) and relocation bracket, McEwen White Gauge Faces.
On order: McCord Power Plate cutout, LG Spoiler and stripe, and ScanMasterLT1
Just a few parts away from my ZR-28
Registered User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 136
From: Stuart, FL USA
Auto-Xer,
I too have not been impressed with the Performance Friction Z-Rated pads! The PFZs chewed-up my stock front 10.9" rotors and eventually warped my front Power-slot rotors on my 1994Z28M6. I had bought a set from LPE to put on the rears, but when a friend advised that they warped his rear rotors severely in only 3000 miles! He said that he had to chisel molten pieces of the pad off of his aluminum wheels too!! So I just threw them out. I chose to go with the EBC Green stuff pads for autocross/street on my 13.15" Baer C5 front brakes and 11" rear Power-slots AND EBC Red Stuff pads for rare road-race track laps. The Green Stuff pads don't require alot of heating, take the heat and are easier on the street. Also, the PFZ pads were disappointing on my wife's 1996 Impala SS even on the thicker (slotted & cross-drilled) Chevy Durastop rotors.
As I had advised, a Torque Arm (which is pinned in the front) is not the best choice for hard-braking road racers (as an Engineer [Electrical]), but my car has enough other modifications, that rear wheel hop does not seem to be a problem under hard braking or engine deceleration.
I too have not been impressed with the Performance Friction Z-Rated pads! The PFZs chewed-up my stock front 10.9" rotors and eventually warped my front Power-slot rotors on my 1994Z28M6. I had bought a set from LPE to put on the rears, but when a friend advised that they warped his rear rotors severely in only 3000 miles! He said that he had to chisel molten pieces of the pad off of his aluminum wheels too!! So I just threw them out. I chose to go with the EBC Green stuff pads for autocross/street on my 13.15" Baer C5 front brakes and 11" rear Power-slots AND EBC Red Stuff pads for rare road-race track laps. The Green Stuff pads don't require alot of heating, take the heat and are easier on the street. Also, the PFZ pads were disappointing on my wife's 1996 Impala SS even on the thicker (slotted & cross-drilled) Chevy Durastop rotors.
As I had advised, a Torque Arm (which is pinned in the front) is not the best choice for hard-braking road racers (as an Engineer [Electrical]), but my car has enough other modifications, that rear wheel hop does not seem to be a problem under hard braking or engine deceleration.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 89
From: Chicagoland
I raced my GTP all last year on PF Z pads. I run W2W with PF Z pads on the rear, PF 93's on the front of my LT1 Formula. I can easily get into abs up front and get hop in rear if I hit the brakes hard. I do eat up rotors abusing them like that, LOL. On 3rd set of front rotors and pads this year, but don't see many people trying too out brake me.
Who ever said Powerslots would stop quicker? Why would you expect them to stop quicker?
bobc
BobC
Who ever said Powerslots would stop quicker? Why would you expect them to stop quicker?
bobc
BobC
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 108
From: Fremont, CA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BobC:
Who ever said Powerslots would stop quicker? Why would you expect them to stop quicker?
bobc
BobC</font>
Who ever said Powerslots would stop quicker? Why would you expect them to stop quicker?
bobc
BobC</font>
POWERSLOT. They claim that the advantages of going with them is better stopping and less brake fade.
But, back to the topic at hand. I would now say that they are stopping well. I guess I just had to break them in a little
. Thanks for all the replies,Brian
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Black 1994 Z28, M6 conversion complete. Eibach Pro-kit, Bilstiens, Chrome 17x11 ZR1 rims, LS1 Brake Upgrade, K&N CAI, AS&M Headers, High-flow Cat, B&B Tri-Flo W/ Quad Tips, Cutout, B&M Ripper, McLeod Street Twin, Kenny Brown DD Subframes, More to come...
There Goes the Neighborhood!!!
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