View Poll Results: Which frame/supension mod made more of a difference?
STB made more of a difference



1
6.67%
SFC made more of a difference



14
93.33%
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll
Poll: STB or SFC which made more of a difference?
Subframes first, STB second, although I had my STB on before the subs. The center of the car is held together by the roof (for those like you who have one) and the floor boards/trans tunnel, so it needs all the help it can get, when it has to restrain the front and rear weight of the car. The STB just helps avoid chassis flex between the shock towers, it helps but not like subframes.
Subframes! Here's my experience with my '97 TA: I got the Kenny Browns... I could tell the difference pulling out of the driveway of the shop that welded them on! Driving across railroad tracks at speed before SFCs was a struggle to get the car stable after the crossing. After SFCs the car just goes over them without all the drama!
Ditto on the Subframes. Noticed immediately upon driving off the lot and going out the driveway. Car is much more stable in turns as it's not bending so much. The STB helps significantly and is worth doing. Car feels way better with these two mods.
friend of mine helped me out. We welded on the KBDD SFC's in ~9 hours... of course this includes everything, including putting stuff back in the car when done. START EARLY. I didn't finish until 3am... when you're sore and covered in dirt/greese/metal-shavings and you've been around welding fumes for the past 4 hours that 3am is awefully painful. 
That said, we didn't really rush it at all and took some breaks for burgers, a small welding tutorial, and at the time we didn't have a lift to start with, so I had to spend nearly an hour getting the car on 4 jack stands and level. Since you want the suspension under static compression, you'll want to support the lower A-arms up front, and the axle tubes in the rear. Of course if you have any ramps, those would be preferable (I used ramps out back and put jack stands under the front a-arms).
A 4-post lift would have been MUCH easier/faster.

That said, we didn't really rush it at all and took some breaks for burgers, a small welding tutorial, and at the time we didn't have a lift to start with, so I had to spend nearly an hour getting the car on 4 jack stands and level. Since you want the suspension under static compression, you'll want to support the lower A-arms up front, and the axle tubes in the rear. Of course if you have any ramps, those would be preferable (I used ramps out back and put jack stands under the front a-arms).
A 4-post lift would have been MUCH easier/faster.
Steve,
I'm assuming you went all out and removed the interior carpeting and backing to avoid a fire? 9 hours seems like a lot of time for a subframe install, but then again I've yet to do one.
I'm assuming you went all out and removed the interior carpeting and backing to avoid a fire? 9 hours seems like a lot of time for a subframe install, but then again I've yet to do one.
Try to keep the car weighted when you weld them in as well. If you just jack the car up the body will flex differently than when its resting on all 4 wheels. So an alignment rack would be ideal...
--Kevin
--Kevin
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Victor Lamb
Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
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Aug 26, 2017 02:52 PM
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Aug 13, 2002 09:24 PM


Makes the choice that much easier. Sub Frames it is!! (First that is)
