Details and how to K-member install please....
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 321
From: Texas
Here's a cut-n-paste of an e-mail I sent out to the local f-body list after my k-member was installed. Looking back, it wasn't nearly as painful as this email made it out to be, but it does represent fairly well how I felt immediately after finishing... 
We were also installing lowering springs at the same time, so some of the things I did, you obviously won't have to do...
Here is my advice regarding how to install a k-member. It starts with "Go
look up the local install shop in the phone book..." You can guess where it goes
from there.
The whole day was summed up by a caption under a picture in the Haynes
manual regarding removing the engine mounts:
"Engine removed for clarity." If you ever see this in an instruction set -
RUN.
First off, "mad props" go out to the entire pit crew: Andy, Pat, Ruben,
Ryan, Troy, Turtle, and Wes. No way I could have done this without all of
their help. :two thumbs up: You guys f'in rock.
Started at 10am...finished at about 9:30pm...yep, 11+ hours.
Step one: place car on jackstands and remove all 4 wheels.
Step two: remove & replace rear springs, panhard bar, lower control arms,
and install LCA relocation brackets. Don't forget to cut off the mounting
bracket for the brake line. Also, don't put the rear bolt in the front of
the LCA - the front bolt is waaay too short to work in back.
Step 3: remove front spring/coil assembly. No simple task. Leverage and
pickle forks are involved.
Step 4: Support engine/tranny on floor jack with wooden block.
Step 5: Unbolt lower a-arms and steering assembly. Unbolt sway bar & fight
to get long a-arm bolts out around steering dust boots. Fight, scream, and
curse to get steering assembly out of k-member mounting slot. Support
a-arm/spindle/rotor assembly with zipties & prayers.
6: Unbolt k-member from body.
7: Unbolt passenger side engine mount. Attempt to remove Alternator to get
long bolt out. Remove belts to get Alternator loose. Remove long bolt.
8: Unbolt driver side engine mount. Realize that AC compressor is in the
way of removing the long bolt. Disconnect battery after volunteer shocks
self on starter.
9: Remove starter. Decide to unbolt the engine mount from the k-member.
See directions in Haynes manual - note picture that has *engine removed for
clarity* caption.
10: Unbolt engine mount from k-member. Hear everyone present cheer with
glee as it breaks free.
11. Unbolt engine mount from mounting on block. Drop down enough to pull
out long bolt around compressor. Reattach block mount.
12. Bolt up BMR k-member to body. "Encourage" power steering assembly to
fit & bolt in slot.
13. "Persuade" a-arms to fit in new k-member. Don't forget to cut off 'lip'
on the bolts, as the aftermarket k-member doesn't have a slot for it. It's
generally much easier to get the bolt all the way in once this is out of the
way.
14. Reinstall motor mount bolt on passenger side - put bolt in from rear
for easy access. Bolt alternator back on.
15. Reinstall motor mount bolt on driver side - attempt to put bolt in from
rear, as AC compressor is (surprisingly) still in the way. Realize that the
dipstick tube is in the way. Remove dipstick and bolt up.
16. Reinstall dipstick & starter.
17. Tighten all bolts. Don't forget the motor mount bolts. Or the
steering assembly nuts. Or the third alternator bolt.
18. Install front spring assemblies with new springs already on. Thanks to
team "B" working on this during some of the earlier steps...
19. Zip tie brake lines & power steering lines to new k-member.
20. Mount wheels, remove engine support, and lower car.
21. Don't forget to put the serpentine belt back on - and don't forget to
reconnect the battery.
Steps 5-11 took at least 6 hours, and 12-17 probably 3 or 4 hours...
There was a lot more, including pizza delivery, beer retrieval, consumption
& spillage; broken shop light bulbs, music fights involving country, techno,
and 80's flashback; Michael Jackson cell phones, and a ton of other crap
that I just can't remember right now. 11 hours is just too long to work on
a car. Now I know why you can't find directions on how to do this - if
people could read it first, no one would every buy one!
Good luck,
Shane
We were also installing lowering springs at the same time, so some of the things I did, you obviously won't have to do...Here is my advice regarding how to install a k-member. It starts with "Go
look up the local install shop in the phone book..." You can guess where it goes
from there.
The whole day was summed up by a caption under a picture in the Haynes
manual regarding removing the engine mounts:
"Engine removed for clarity." If you ever see this in an instruction set -
RUN.
First off, "mad props" go out to the entire pit crew: Andy, Pat, Ruben,
Ryan, Troy, Turtle, and Wes. No way I could have done this without all of
their help. :two thumbs up: You guys f'in rock.
Started at 10am...finished at about 9:30pm...yep, 11+ hours.
Step one: place car on jackstands and remove all 4 wheels.
Step two: remove & replace rear springs, panhard bar, lower control arms,
and install LCA relocation brackets. Don't forget to cut off the mounting
bracket for the brake line. Also, don't put the rear bolt in the front of
the LCA - the front bolt is waaay too short to work in back.
Step 3: remove front spring/coil assembly. No simple task. Leverage and
pickle forks are involved.
Step 4: Support engine/tranny on floor jack with wooden block.
Step 5: Unbolt lower a-arms and steering assembly. Unbolt sway bar & fight
to get long a-arm bolts out around steering dust boots. Fight, scream, and
curse to get steering assembly out of k-member mounting slot. Support
a-arm/spindle/rotor assembly with zipties & prayers.
6: Unbolt k-member from body.
7: Unbolt passenger side engine mount. Attempt to remove Alternator to get
long bolt out. Remove belts to get Alternator loose. Remove long bolt.
8: Unbolt driver side engine mount. Realize that AC compressor is in the
way of removing the long bolt. Disconnect battery after volunteer shocks
self on starter.
9: Remove starter. Decide to unbolt the engine mount from the k-member.
See directions in Haynes manual - note picture that has *engine removed for
clarity* caption.
10: Unbolt engine mount from k-member. Hear everyone present cheer with
glee as it breaks free.
11. Unbolt engine mount from mounting on block. Drop down enough to pull
out long bolt around compressor. Reattach block mount.
12. Bolt up BMR k-member to body. "Encourage" power steering assembly to
fit & bolt in slot.
13. "Persuade" a-arms to fit in new k-member. Don't forget to cut off 'lip'
on the bolts, as the aftermarket k-member doesn't have a slot for it. It's
generally much easier to get the bolt all the way in once this is out of the
way.
14. Reinstall motor mount bolt on passenger side - put bolt in from rear
for easy access. Bolt alternator back on.
15. Reinstall motor mount bolt on driver side - attempt to put bolt in from
rear, as AC compressor is (surprisingly) still in the way. Realize that the
dipstick tube is in the way. Remove dipstick and bolt up.
16. Reinstall dipstick & starter.
17. Tighten all bolts. Don't forget the motor mount bolts. Or the
steering assembly nuts. Or the third alternator bolt.
18. Install front spring assemblies with new springs already on. Thanks to
team "B" working on this during some of the earlier steps...
19. Zip tie brake lines & power steering lines to new k-member.
20. Mount wheels, remove engine support, and lower car.
21. Don't forget to put the serpentine belt back on - and don't forget to
reconnect the battery.
Steps 5-11 took at least 6 hours, and 12-17 probably 3 or 4 hours...
There was a lot more, including pizza delivery, beer retrieval, consumption
& spillage; broken shop light bulbs, music fights involving country, techno,
and 80's flashback; Michael Jackson cell phones, and a ton of other crap
that I just can't remember right now. 11 hours is just too long to work on
a car. Now I know why you can't find directions on how to do this - if
people could read it first, no one would every buy one!
Good luck,
Shane
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,419
From: Coquitlam, British Columbia
Originally posted by ShaneS
Here's a cut-n-paste of an e-mail I sent out to the local f-body list after my k-member was installed. Looking back, it wasn't nearly as painful as this email made it out to be, but it does represent fairly well how I felt immediately after finishing... We were also installing lowering springs at the same time, so some of the things I did, you obviously won't have to do...
Here is my advice regarding how to install a k-member. It starts with "Go
look up the local install shop in the phone book..." You can guess where it goes
from there.
The whole day was summed up by a caption under a picture in the Haynes
manual regarding removing the engine mounts:
"Engine removed for clarity." If you ever see this in an instruction set -
RUN.
First off, "mad props" go out to the entire pit crew: Andy, Pat, Ruben,
Ryan, Troy, Turtle, and Wes. No way I could have done this without all of
their help. :two thumbs up: You guys f'in rock.
Started at 10am...finished at about 9:30pm...yep, 11+ hours.
Step one: place car on jackstands and remove all 4 wheels.
Step two: remove & replace rear springs, panhard bar, lower control arms,
and install LCA relocation brackets. Don't forget to cut off the mounting
bracket for the brake line. Also, don't put the rear bolt in the front of
the LCA - the front bolt is waaay too short to work in back.
Step 3: remove front spring/coil assembly. No simple task. Leverage and
pickle forks are involved.
Step 4: Support engine/tranny on floor jack with wooden block.
Step 5: Unbolt lower a-arms and steering assembly. Unbolt sway bar & fight
to get long a-arm bolts out around steering dust boots. Fight, scream, and
curse to get steering assembly out of k-member mounting slot. Support
a-arm/spindle/rotor assembly with zipties & prayers.
6: Unbolt k-member from body.
7: Unbolt passenger side engine mount. Attempt to remove Alternator to get
long bolt out. Remove belts to get Alternator loose. Remove long bolt.
8: Unbolt driver side engine mount. Realize that AC compressor is in the
way of removing the long bolt. Disconnect battery after volunteer shocks
self on starter.
9: Remove starter. Decide to unbolt the engine mount from the k-member.
See directions in Haynes manual - note picture that has *engine removed for
clarity* caption.
10: Unbolt engine mount from k-member. Hear everyone present cheer with
glee as it breaks free.
11. Unbolt engine mount from mounting on block. Drop down enough to pull
out long bolt around compressor. Reattach block mount.
12. Bolt up BMR k-member to body. "Encourage" power steering assembly to
fit & bolt in slot.
13. "Persuade" a-arms to fit in new k-member. Don't forget to cut off 'lip'
on the bolts, as the aftermarket k-member doesn't have a slot for it. It's
generally much easier to get the bolt all the way in once this is out of the
way.
14. Reinstall motor mount bolt on passenger side - put bolt in from rear
for easy access. Bolt alternator back on.
15. Reinstall motor mount bolt on driver side - attempt to put bolt in from
rear, as AC compressor is (surprisingly) still in the way. Realize that the
dipstick tube is in the way. Remove dipstick and bolt up.
16. Reinstall dipstick & starter.
17. Tighten all bolts. Don't forget the motor mount bolts. Or the
steering assembly nuts. Or the third alternator bolt.
18. Install front spring assemblies with new springs already on. Thanks to
team "B" working on this during some of the earlier steps...
19. Zip tie brake lines & power steering lines to new k-member.
20. Mount wheels, remove engine support, and lower car.
21. Don't forget to put the serpentine belt back on - and don't forget to
reconnect the battery.
Steps 5-11 took at least 6 hours, and 12-17 probably 3 or 4 hours...
There was a lot more, including pizza delivery, beer retrieval, consumption
& spillage; broken shop light bulbs, music fights involving country, techno,
and 80's flashback; Michael Jackson cell phones, and a ton of other crap
that I just can't remember right now. 11 hours is just too long to work on
a car. Now I know why you can't find directions on how to do this - if
people could read it first, no one would every buy one!
Good luck,
Shane
Here's a cut-n-paste of an e-mail I sent out to the local f-body list after my k-member was installed. Looking back, it wasn't nearly as painful as this email made it out to be, but it does represent fairly well how I felt immediately after finishing...
We were also installing lowering springs at the same time, so some of the things I did, you obviously won't have to do...Here is my advice regarding how to install a k-member. It starts with "Go
look up the local install shop in the phone book..." You can guess where it goes
from there.
The whole day was summed up by a caption under a picture in the Haynes
manual regarding removing the engine mounts:
"Engine removed for clarity." If you ever see this in an instruction set -
RUN.
First off, "mad props" go out to the entire pit crew: Andy, Pat, Ruben,
Ryan, Troy, Turtle, and Wes. No way I could have done this without all of
their help. :two thumbs up: You guys f'in rock.
Started at 10am...finished at about 9:30pm...yep, 11+ hours.
Step one: place car on jackstands and remove all 4 wheels.
Step two: remove & replace rear springs, panhard bar, lower control arms,
and install LCA relocation brackets. Don't forget to cut off the mounting
bracket for the brake line. Also, don't put the rear bolt in the front of
the LCA - the front bolt is waaay too short to work in back.
Step 3: remove front spring/coil assembly. No simple task. Leverage and
pickle forks are involved.
Step 4: Support engine/tranny on floor jack with wooden block.
Step 5: Unbolt lower a-arms and steering assembly. Unbolt sway bar & fight
to get long a-arm bolts out around steering dust boots. Fight, scream, and
curse to get steering assembly out of k-member mounting slot. Support
a-arm/spindle/rotor assembly with zipties & prayers.
6: Unbolt k-member from body.
7: Unbolt passenger side engine mount. Attempt to remove Alternator to get
long bolt out. Remove belts to get Alternator loose. Remove long bolt.
8: Unbolt driver side engine mount. Realize that AC compressor is in the
way of removing the long bolt. Disconnect battery after volunteer shocks
self on starter.
9: Remove starter. Decide to unbolt the engine mount from the k-member.
See directions in Haynes manual - note picture that has *engine removed for
clarity* caption.
10: Unbolt engine mount from k-member. Hear everyone present cheer with
glee as it breaks free.
11. Unbolt engine mount from mounting on block. Drop down enough to pull
out long bolt around compressor. Reattach block mount.
12. Bolt up BMR k-member to body. "Encourage" power steering assembly to
fit & bolt in slot.
13. "Persuade" a-arms to fit in new k-member. Don't forget to cut off 'lip'
on the bolts, as the aftermarket k-member doesn't have a slot for it. It's
generally much easier to get the bolt all the way in once this is out of the
way.
14. Reinstall motor mount bolt on passenger side - put bolt in from rear
for easy access. Bolt alternator back on.
15. Reinstall motor mount bolt on driver side - attempt to put bolt in from
rear, as AC compressor is (surprisingly) still in the way. Realize that the
dipstick tube is in the way. Remove dipstick and bolt up.
16. Reinstall dipstick & starter.
17. Tighten all bolts. Don't forget the motor mount bolts. Or the
steering assembly nuts. Or the third alternator bolt.
18. Install front spring assemblies with new springs already on. Thanks to
team "B" working on this during some of the earlier steps...
19. Zip tie brake lines & power steering lines to new k-member.
20. Mount wheels, remove engine support, and lower car.
21. Don't forget to put the serpentine belt back on - and don't forget to
reconnect the battery.
Steps 5-11 took at least 6 hours, and 12-17 probably 3 or 4 hours...
There was a lot more, including pizza delivery, beer retrieval, consumption
& spillage; broken shop light bulbs, music fights involving country, techno,
and 80's flashback; Michael Jackson cell phones, and a ton of other crap
that I just can't remember right now. 11 hours is just too long to work on
a car. Now I know why you can't find directions on how to do this - if
people could read it first, no one would every buy one!
Good luck,
Shane
to you...next Sunday is gonna be fun
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 776
From: NYC, NY
you know whenever I think about how difficult it was to dissassemble my car I go "it wasn't that bad" for some reason it just seems really not a big deal, until I think of all the specifics.......then it goes more like, WOW that was a huge pain in the @ss
it kinda sucks at the time, but overall, not too bad
it kinda sucks at the time, but overall, not too bad
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,419
From: Coquitlam, British Columbia
All my a-arms, sway bars etc. or off...so there's quite a bit done already...the only thing I'm not sure of is removing the FLP's etc. etc.....a big job all in all but being a vert, it's worth it and it is sexy as hell...
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