What will fit?
What will fit?
I have a 1994 Z28. I want to put bigger wheels on it and lower it. I like my cars to look really clean, so i like them lowered and I really want to get rid of these 16 inch wheels.
1)What is the biggest size wheel I can put on this car?
2) Does lowering it effect how big the wheels can be?
3)What are the best lowering springs to use?
4)I was thinking Eibachs?
5)Do I need caster camber plates like my Mustang?
I was thinking a set of black powder coated afs corvette zr1 wheels 17x11 in the back and 17x9.5 up front.
Thanks----------AZ28
1)What is the biggest size wheel I can put on this car?
2) Does lowering it effect how big the wheels can be?
3)What are the best lowering springs to use?
4)I was thinking Eibachs?
5)Do I need caster camber plates like my Mustang?
I was thinking a set of black powder coated afs corvette zr1 wheels 17x11 in the back and 17x9.5 up front.
Thanks----------AZ28
when you say "the biggest wheels possible"
do you mean the width or diameter?......or both?
I am running 19x9.5 on the front and 20x10 on the rear of my 1995 Z28 with Eibach "sportline" 2 inch drop springs.
check my sig!
do you mean the width or diameter?......or both?
I am running 19x9.5 on the front and 20x10 on the rear of my 1995 Z28 with Eibach "sportline" 2 inch drop springs.
check my sig!
im running the same size wheels as chucky and i think its one of the best looking combos if you want a bigger wheel. i have the Eibach prokits on my car though and it looks great, i dont have pics up of the finished drop yet though. im not sure of the caster camber plates though.
Caster/Camber plates are required on Mustangs because they have a true "strut" type front suspension, with limited adjustment range. The 4th Gen F-Body uses an unequal length upper/lower a-arm suspension that incorporates a substantial range of adjustment in the lower a-arm and does not require plates. I was able to get the alignment I wanted when the front was down 1.8", using the built-in adjustment bolts. If you exceed the limits of the suspension, you would have to go to aftermarket tubular upper and lower a-arms, with spherical bushings, and additional adjustment points.
Originally posted by Injuneer
Caster/Camber plates are required on Mustangs because they have a true "strut" type front suspension, with limited adjustment range. The 4th Gen F-Body uses an unequal length upper/lower a-arm suspension that incorporates a substantial range of adjustment in the lower a-arm and does not require plates. I was able to get the alignment I wanted when the front was down 1.8", using the built-in adjustment bolts. If you exceed the limits of the suspension, you would have to go to aftermarket tubular upper and lower a-arms, with spherical bushings, and additional adjustment points.
Caster/Camber plates are required on Mustangs because they have a true "strut" type front suspension, with limited adjustment range. The 4th Gen F-Body uses an unequal length upper/lower a-arm suspension that incorporates a substantial range of adjustment in the lower a-arm and does not require plates. I was able to get the alignment I wanted when the front was down 1.8", using the built-in adjustment bolts. If you exceed the limits of the suspension, you would have to go to aftermarket tubular upper and lower a-arms, with spherical bushings, and additional adjustment points.
Dont cut your springs.
If i had my ZR1's still id show ya how they fit with the Eibach pro-kit.
Springs really dont cost that much. And for the ride they are worth it. And yes the 17x11's will fit.
Good luck with your wheel combo.
If i had my ZR1's still id show ya how they fit with the Eibach pro-kit.
Springs really dont cost that much. And for the ride they are worth it. And yes the 17x11's will fit.
Good luck with your wheel combo.
Alot of times, big tires are safe as long as you correct your geometry through your suspension. Adj. panhard bars will do this for the back, not sure about the front. I'm pretty sure the only thing you need to worry about with 19s or 20s is to make sure the backspacing is correct, and make sure it doesnt rub the bumpstop. I've heard you can get more room to work with if you lower the car 1.5" or so.
The idea is to keep the outside diameter of the tires roughly equal to the stock diameter - 25.65". As long as the tire is the correct diameter, and the wheel has the correct offset, it isn't going to matter whether you are running 275 or 285/40-17, 275 or 285/35-18 or 275 or 285/30-19.... they are all about the same diameter. But when you go into a 20" wheel, you are looking at 275/30-20 or 285/30-20, and the tire is now 1" larger in diameter than stock, meaning the car is now 1/2" further off the ground, and the top of the tire sticks 1/2" further up into the wheel wells, increasing the chance of rubbing.
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